So my nerves can take it no longer and I've decided to replace the secondary tensioners. I plan to use the "zip tie" method.

I've read several posts and it seams the photos for the "zip tie" method have gone away so I have a few questions.

So I remove the covers, rotated the engine until the two flats are on top, checking for stretch with a ruler, insert the zip tie through the hole in the sprocket and around the chain, I then undo the exhaust cam caps bolts loosening each bolt a little at a time until they are all undone and I can remove the caps(keeping track of postion obviously), I unbolt the old tensioner, lift the exhaust cam up remove the old and replace with new tensioner and bolts (I NEED THE SPECS FOR THESE), torque down the tensioner bolts (HOW MANY FT/lbs?) and replace the cam caps slowly bolting the caps down a little at a time(ANY PATTERN TO FOLLOW?) button everything up, disconnect file pump relay and turn the engine over for a few seconds to pump up the tensioners and then I am done?

I saw black onyx's thread and I'd be tempted to do the primaries as well but I really don't have the time and his thread involved new chains and a lot of other things. Is thee a simpler way to do just the primaries?

So if anyone can tell me where the pix for the zip tie method are I'd appreciate it and I also need the specs for the bolts for the tensioners.

Do I use locktite on anything?

I need the gasket set for the valve covers/spark plug holes only correct?

If there is anything I may have over looked please advise.

Also, if there is a Lincoln/ford part number that might save me something against the $85 OEM parts please let me know.

Thanks
Eric

 

Before I did this job -- using the tie method -- I read everything I could get my hands on. Start by Googling 'replacing secondary tensioners on a X308 Jaguar.' Some great Youtube videos and spectacular write ups.

I can't find some of the better writeups, including torque values, but I wrote one, Jack Dawson wrote one, as did DanielSand. Most were commented on by the pros.

Some additional keys:
the dip stick is hard to remove, cut an alley in the hold down tab, so you can bend it out of the way.
The overflow tubes, plastic, that run from the radiator fill bottle are fragile; do not lean on them.
The flats on both exhaust and intake must be in line, use a straight edge before tying the chain down.
Patience, go slow.
Make sure when you put the air filter and all trappings back to the throttle body everything is tight.

The gaskets can be reused if you take great care in remove and reinstalling to get the gasket material correctly placed in the grooves.

Most folks change the plugs at the same time; be sure to torque correctly.

 

Some more:

this is the best thread:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ary+tensioners

Genuine Jaguar exchange engine rebuild spec? is also good

and Danielsand's UPDATE!! (As promised) and I need more assistance 10-21-2013

Lincoln and Ford dealers have the parts -- LincolnLS or 2002 T-Bird with 3.9 engine

But most buy from Christopher Car Parts in New Jersey

 

Do not remove the exhaust cam caps with the flats aligned. Too much stress on the cam that way. Rotate the engine until the lobes are not depressing the buckets.

 

I wish you good fortune as this is my next adventure.

 

Ditto! This is important or you will run the risk of damaging the cam shafts!

This is an easy job ... the hardest part (XJR) was getting the valve covers back on.

Tensioner - 12 nm
Cam shafts - 10 nm
Valve cover 10 nm

 

RJ makes a critical commento not remove the exhaust cam caps with the flats aligned. Too much stress on the cam that way. Rotate the engine until the lobes are not depressing the buckets.

Once you have assured the intake and exhaust are aligned (flat edge across both cam flat spots), rotate the engine with a spanner until you have a spot where there is the least tension against the lifters (lowest spots on the exhaust cam pressing against the lifter faces), this keeps you from BREAKING THE CAMSHAFT!

OBTW: what year, what model?

 

One good trick my Buddy Buck discovered is a good way to check if there is any force on the cams is to stick you finger in and spin the lifters. If they all spin, then they are not being pressed on by the cam and it is then safe to back off the cam bolts. I have done 4 sets of 2ndary replacements.

Also, use a black sharpie and mark the position of the cams vs some referrence point, JUST IN CASE something moves, you can move it back.

 

Any idea since when do the 3rd gen tensioners been used from factory? year 2002? month? from VIN? from engine number?

 

Metal tensioners were used starting with engine# 010813xxxx. Did I put enough x's?

 

I am a little confused. Do I align cams, then tie off, then rotate, then unbolt cam caps? Sorry guys trying to get it right, will be doing the job soon. And yes, will study up. Thanks All!

 

It's a VERY straightforward job, no worries, no stress. I recommend Christopher's because EVERYTHING needed comes in one package, along with torque values, and the sequence of tightening on the valve covers.

As others said, do ONE side at the time, and unbolt the cam in it's "sweet spot". Don't worry about aligning (they WILL NOT align in the "sweet spot"!!). Cam flats WILL be oriented the same way, but in the sweet spot, you can't put the straightedge across them! Don't let that spook you.

Insert an alan wrench into the front of the cam, and turn the cam to the sweet spot (no valves engaged). To turn easy, remove all sparkplugs first (both sides). Once you are in the sweet spot, ZIP tie the chain, unbolt the tensioner, unbolt the cam (keep the bolts and bearings in order!), lift the cam remove the tensioner, put the new tensioner in, lower the cam, bolt it in, and you are done (on that side).

IF you are replacing the chain, procedure is a little different. You ZIP tie the primary chain, lower the cam, bolt it in, turn the cam with the allan to align the flats, slip the chain on (keeping the flats aligned with the special tool, OR have a helper maintaining the pressure on the wrench and checking the flat alignement with the ruller/torpedo level, or suitable object). Once the chain is on, slip the master link through, secure it, and pull the safety out of the tensioner.

IF you are replacing the chain, it helps a LOT if you position the chain under the cam sprocket FIRST (when you lift the cam out of the craddle). Just don't engage the sprocket teeth at this point. Open ends of the chain need to be on the top (that's where you will insert the master link. Once the flats are aligned, engage the bottom sprocket teeth with the chain (maintaining the pressure on the allan wrench!), and slip them over the top. Open ends need to meet on the top of the sprocket in order to insert the master link. Pressure needs to be maintained on the allan, because the valve springs resistance will want to return the cam to the "sweet spot".

A lot of people are VERY concerned about "deegrees on the cam" to maintain the timing. I found out that there is NO WAY to be few degrees off. You CAN be a "tooth off", but "one tooth off" equals MANY deegrees, and it's VERY obvious if you ARE one tooth off.

All this what I'm typing might sound as gibberish right now, but once you open it up, it will be totally understandable.

I am looking at a 2000 XJR right now (I know, I know....I said "2003 only", but this one is SWEET!), and IF I go for it, I'll remove the supercharger, radiator, and the front timing chain cover, in addition to what you are doing. I'll replace ALL the chains, upper tensioners, lower tensioners and guides, and the "octopuss" hoses under the supercharger.

Hopefully I won't get bored with the "R". I'd like to keep ONE car longer than couple of years. I DO get bored with them rather quickly, and I sell a PERFECT car, buy something else, and wrench it to perfection again. I must be sick.

 

Many thanks Danielsand, and I did get everything through Christopher's.

 

I just noticed you are in the state of my future residence! I am looking at several properties on the Continental Divide (along Salmon river). Was there in November to close the deal, but the property was a "little" mispresented, so I'm back on the hunt.
A close friend lives in the area and he is searching for me as well. I was planning (back in November) to be in ID by April, now everything is postponed for a year (want to move in the Spring, rather than the fall).

 

1. treat each bank as a separate 4 cylinder engine, finish one side before starting the other.

2. the cams are not aligned on the flats, but rather rotated such that there are no lobes in the valve open position, there is one and only one position where this happens

3. the above rotation can be accomplished with the fuel injection fuse removed to guarantee no start, then bumping with the ignition key. once in position, undo battery ground strap.

4. two(or more) zip tieS should be applied to lock the positionS of the primary chain to intake, and secondary chain to intake

5. when removing the exhaust cam, have the bearing cap closest to the firewall screwed down by a couple of threads to help control cam movement ... you don't want to scratch the cam journal surfaces

6. try removing cam by grasping at sprocket and freeing at that end, if it is stuck due to hydraulic surface tension, break the tension by rapping on the end of the cam at the firewall with a *small* hammer while pulling up on the sprocket ... or give the sprocket a wiggle while pulling up

As mentioned by danielsand, there is no possibility of being "off by a small bit". That is because the error would have to be a multiple of teeth in the amount of 360/teeth degrees. This presumes the sprocket bolt is never touched.

The coil harness can be treated like a bundle of spaghetti ... just remove, pick up the whole mess and lay it on a rag down by the rear of the exhaust manifold. No need to undo coil from harness and risk damaging the connectors. Installation is apparent because each coil circuit is exactly long enough to reach the proper hole.

The required bolts are shouldered M6x35mm for the metal tensioners. The old bolts are M6x40mm. Measurement is from the bottom contact face on the head to the tip of the threaded end.

To ensure that the bolt does not prematurely bottom, either measure using a drill bit as a dummy bolt, or ensure that the bolt can be run up finger tight without interference while the new tensioner is tight against the mounting surface.

 

Plums- thanks as always for great write for me. Between you and Danielsand I think I can manage this job.


Danielsland- Welcome (soon I hope) to Idaho, I am up North near the Canadian Border. PM me when you figure things out.

 

Yes you did!
Iam so happy 020202xxxx man here

 

Lucky man!

 

Ok so I finally got around to doing this. Good thing I did as trouble was afoot as catastrophic failure was imminent.

One of these things is not like the others:

 

Oh and I did this too:



I tracked down some tiny easy outs but I need to get a small angle drill that will fit in by the heater valve etc.

Not my lucky day.

Thanks


Eric