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I went through it. It clarifies a few points indeed and gives method. I just have to keep checking things one by one... Next I'll replace a few relays just to see and replace the brake pedal switch. We'll see... I'm loosing faith slowly. I really don't get what those symptoms lead too. Cluster always on, no ignition at all. Brake pedal shutting off the cluster when contact is off... Really weird stuff. Since you're the only person answering I guess no one else has a clue. That speaks for the oddity of my misadventure
Well, not everyone looks at all the posts, even those who have more in depth knowledge.
For your overall scenario, you had a running vehicle and after refurbishing it, you have an issue. That either means you have a bad part(s) upon reassembly and/or connection....and as you state, you just have to keep checking.
Don't lose faith, you put a lot of effort into to getting this far.
Check the ignition wires that are located under the steering column. First remove a cover under the steering column that are hold in place with 4 torx screws. When removed there are 4 plastic connectors where the wires are connected and it's the smallest one of them. Remove it from its holder and move it back and forth with the ignition on and see if something happens. The problem is that the wires are not properly connected to the metallic things inside the plastic connector. I had electrical problems because of the ignition wires for example no lights in instrument cluster and the car wouldn't start.
After reading all the posts in this thread. I focused on the PATS, passive anit theft system. Which is the same system as used in Fords, of the same era. As Ford owned Jaguar in the same time period, I'd be willing to bet the local Ford dealer could hook up, and check the cluster. I tried to reprogram some new keys to my, Ford Fusion with a Aftermarket scanner from Matco, and inadvertently locked the security system, because it didn't recognize the tool / scanner. it thought I was stealing it. Long story short, during reprogramming my cluster, their computer went dead!, and killed my Cluster! After several discussions, with the General manager. I paid for the cluster at dealer cost $486.53, and they ate the labor. All was fixed, and has been perfect since. I'm not sure that's what you've got going on here. BUT, the cluster is a "Computer" all in itself, and if it thinks you've done anything remotely related to trying to steal the car! Such as totally dismantling it??? You're Screwed! As it will shut down, and only they can reset it.
I have purchased a 2001 3.2 X308 [snip] Idea was to fully rebuild the car. Engine, gearbox, rear train, all bushes and suspensions... You name it: Basically every wearable part has been changed. Starter, alternator, coils, injectors, chains pack, etc. I can't think of something we haven't changed beside MAF and throttle body[snip] Won't start... It appears it's the cluster that blocks everything. We can't diagnose as the computer is off. When we connect the (new of course) battery, all we get is the cluster lit up all the time. It's lit even though key isn't in. Odd thing is it turns off if I brake. When I turn the key nothing happens. It remains lit listing an arm long list of issues. Electrical problem, etc... Engine lights remain off. What lits are: Overall lighting, side lights, head beam and the LCD screen.
Hi jacksjags,
Sorry to join your thread late, but you've already received some great ideas from Highhorse, Henkez and 89 Jacobra.
I haven't had time to study the wiring diagrams and don't have any great insights for you, but the fact that the instrument cluster is illuminated any time the battery is connected, and extinguishes when you depress the brake pedal, has to be a major clue as to the source of at least one of your malfunctions.
For example, the component responsible for engine cranking control and most lighting functions is the Body Processor Module (BPM). I wonder if a short somewhere in the BPM wiring, or water ingress of the BPM itself (not uncommon) could cause or contribute to your symptoms?
The BPM and Instrument Cluster (IC) communicate with the Data Link Connector (DLC) via the Standard Corporate Protocol (SCP) Network, via twisted pairs of Blue and Yellow wires. The IC also communicates with the DLC via the Controller Area Network (CAN) via twisted pairs of Green and Yellow wires. Problems with the CAN or SCP wiring can cause weird malfunctions. There is a large splice block for the SCP in the right rear heelboard fuse box where a bunch of Blue and Yellow wires come together. A problem with the wiring at that splice block could affect the BPM, IC and DLC.
The brake switch connects directly to the ABS Control Module and the Engine Control Module (ECM) and is normally open. The brake cancel switch for the cruise/speed control connects to the ECM and is normally closed. I would be worth studying the circuits of those switches to see how activating one of them could change the illumination status of the bulbs in the IC.
Hi Don, I checked the BPM and cleaned it all. It was looking excellent, no water got into the protection box ever. Very clean and dry. So it shouldn't be that. It looks like I should take a deeper look at the ABS module. Replace the relays. All were checked of course, and swapped to trouble shoot. But nothing... I've studied - to the best of my noob ability - the diagrams already. It shows me where things are but that's it to me. Besides cleaning and checking fuses and relays I'm pretty lost...
The problem was not that they were not clean, it was that there was not enough contact so I took a plier and pressed together the metallic piece at the end of the wires a little bit.
Could it be the steering wheel? The AirBag unit or some wires inside? Because I changed that. But I see no reason why at all!!! Just asking if someone had a bad experience when replacing the steering wheel.
Well.... It looks like my car is blocked for some time. I checked all connections. Cleaned, inspected. Steering wheel column: Checked. Brake pedal switch: Checked. I'm really in a bad spot. To complete the description of the symptoms: Brake lights don't light up when I press the pedal. Also: I hear a faint click when I press the pedal. That's when my head is on the floor (I removed all seats to have room). Radio works. As all lights and windows. Cluster remains lit on no matter what. Any ideas?
Do your FOB's work?
Have you checked all the fuses in the Engine Management Fuse Box?
This image was provide by LadyP in another thread regarding brake light operation....
...this thread involves the wiring in the boot going along the right side support arm...https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...orking-193530/ (check Post #13) also the rear break lights are controlled by the SLCM.
Thanks Highhorse! More possible things that could have gone bad... I'll check those and we'll see... I did check all the fuses in the engine managment fuse box. As well as all around the car. That was the very first thing we did together with ground straps and all engine connections.
10-27-2019, 04:33 AM
