Hi there, My x308 SC/4.0 from 1998 is playing tricks on me. Just got the two old remotes fixed and both works great open and close doors. Central lock functions works as it should. Problem is that when I sit in the car with ignition turned on and I push the "Central lock button" on the dash board, it immidiatly closes all doors - but when pushing again it will NOT open any doors. When I hold the button down for 3 secīs I can hear the mechanism is trying to do something but nothing really happens. It is a big problem when driving to pick up the kids, the car is in autolock position and you canīt opne up alle doors with a push anymore.

Does anyone have ideas how I can find the fault. Since the mechanism works, I guess it must be the button it self (?)...I am not a super technical person :-/

I have checked all Fuses and noone is blown, so I am out of ideas.

Anyone ?

thanks for an outstanding forum with so much knowledge to share.
br/Flemming, Denmark

 

You state your remote locks/unlocks without issue. So, like yourself, believe your problem is that button. In saying, its ironic I just happen to have that assembly sitting on my pool table.
So I disassembled it for you...I would check that button for function. You should be able to meter it for continuity.
After removing the 4 screws, take a blade to lift the tabs out of the slots and it comes apart.
You can find the dash components on ebay rather cheaply. Mine came with the climate controls as well, which is what I was after, my mounting tabs were broken.

Sorry for the blurry pics, but you get the point....

 

Not to sidetrack the post but I just wanted to tell you(Highhorse) about plastic welders. My climate controls were kinda slanted when I bought my jag so I pulled it apart to check it out and found that one of my bottom mount tabs was broken off and missing. My shop that I work at has a nitrogen plastic welder though so I brought it to work and made a new tab, took me about 15 mins to make the new tab and it fits well and has been holding good since oct. 2020. If you have some plastic repair you need done you may want to consider bringing it to your local auto body shop and asking them if they have a nitrogen plastic welder and if they’d fix it, it may be a little cheaper for you and save an otherwise good part.

 

Greatly appreciated Kroeger, but since I had made that purchase about 10 yrs ago, I have found casting resin, which works great. You know, the stuff kids make earrings and such from. I saw a YouTube vid on a guy who made a turn signal lens from it and it was game on from there. I can even dye it to almost match. I'm actually going to be making my new countertops from it.

Site member Addicted2boost had also shown me a product Bondic that uses the same principal, but allows you to be precise and ...well, ..weld pieces. I put new tabs on my cruise and suspension bezel, worked great.

 

great...and thanks alot for disassembel it for me so great to see the pictures and makes it a little more realitstic for me to try to fix. I will try to get it our withour braking things and find out how to messure it for continuity. Any advise how to do that. I guess a volt meter on the "ohm" setting going from 1 top 0 ?

Will try and get back...thanks again.

br/Flemming

 

Yes, ohm and put it on tone (speaker sound symbol) so it rings with a closed loop. If you just want to test the continuity, you shouldn't have to take it down like I did, just check those 2 circled solder joints in the last pic.

If that tests fine, then check that connector that goes into the assembly. Make sure the pins are securely set.

 

Thanks, today I tried to take it apart for the first time and got it to work. Now I could turn the ignition on, push the button and make it close/open several times - all fine. Turned ignition off and reassembled it. Turned on again and then it will only close..not open (as before) - tried it all one more time with the same result..working when hanging loose without screws - not working when all put in place ? Only thing I didnt do was messure, which I should have done. Will try that tomorrow. Rest of the consol is working perfectly..

 

You say it doesn't work when reinstalled, does that mean when you reattach the assembly to the dash, the unit doesn't work properly? I ask because it sounds like the plastic is being torqued in some form, creating the issue at hand. Thus, it may need not be screwed down so tight or shimmed slightly to take the bind out of it.

When you say "...hanging loose without screws..."...can you be more specific what screws? The ones holding the unit to the dash or the ones holding the activation board in the unit?

 

.

 

So, have you taken the unit apart to where you see the M17 button (3rd pic)? This sounds like the plastic push button cover isn't seating properly...it has a slight inset...or your solder joint for the button on the board is loose.

Wish you were closer, or even in the same country, I'd give this to you.

 

@highhorse I really appreciate your help and patience with me since Iīve just started to collect courage enough to disassemble things on the jag for the first tmie in the 8 years Iīve had it.

I did not get all apart so I could see the M17 button. Reason was that the when I take out the unit I can take away the elcectric plug on the behind of the unit and flip it around. But I can not get it all out since the wire harness seems to be "integrated" on the back and I see no plug to unplug to get it all out. Is there a wire plug (srt my lact of english tecg words) Anyway I can flip it around and get access to the most, so I will try again today to split it apart and see if I can get the plastic cover all off this time.

Hopefully I can see the "error" in there, so I can find out how to fix this really irritation problem. Everytime I pick up my kids I need to lean all over to passengerside and manually open up the door. This is not the best exercise for a guy with a weak back spine :-)

Have a great weekend you all

 

One option is to code out drive away locking function with IDS.

 

you can’t use the driver side plunger?

 

The connector does have a release, its underneath.

 

Unfortunately I did not get this ?

 

thats right - but I like the default function, but as a last way out it could be an option. I do not know how to deactivate it from the IDS. Nice to keep in mind if I do not succeed with other option. thanks

 

Si I got it all out again and everything looks clean- messured all again with no faults. Buttons clicks fine and similar to the other working buttons. Solder on circuit also looks ok. But it is still one way. I can lock with the button and but open when inginition on. Se pics below.

I wonder what controller box are driving the central lock button/system and if there is a fault.

Is a hard reset worth the try ?

Any ideas are very welcome..thanks

br/Flemming

 

pull the chrome stick on the driver door and then the other 3 chrome sticks go up and unlock the doors

 

....ewww, that was rough. But I can understand his reasoning because I will pull up to pick up friends and push that button so they can get in. I'm sure this is what he is doing when he picks up his kids.

Bongo....have you metered that button on the solder joints for continuity? Pushing the button and holding it for about 3 seconds so the meter will tone. If its not toning, its probably that button.

Also, do this function outside the car, put your key in the locking cylinder, turn it to the left and hold it there. The windows will all roll up and it locks, same vise versa, turn the key to the right and hold it and they all go down and all unlocks.

 

oh sorry, I am not sure what you mean by using the side plunger ? When picking up the wife, I need to lean all over passenger seat and then use the inner door handle to open up - instead os pushing the button on console.

Let me know if this is not what you are asking :-)
thanks