Changing Coolant - after doing cam chains
#1
Changing Coolant - after doing cam chains
I have been gathering tools, parts and info for while in preparation of doing the cam chains and tensioners on my 1999 XJ8 4.0. Planning this weekend.
Since I will be draining the coolant I have got a new pump and thermostat to refit whilst I am in there. The car is ready for a coolant change also.
I did'nt want to get involved in a load of flushing and so I will be topping up after with Jagaur D542 (The yellow stuff) which is what is in the car. (I gave up trying to identify what D542 is and where to get it other than the main dealer!)
My question is how to get as much of the old coolant out the system without flushing. I was going measure how much comes out the radiator drain plug but I am guessing its going to be someway short of the 10ltr capacity. Is it possible to get more out out of the systme by "sucking" it out of the block once the pump is off ?
Also given the heater is burried in the dash somewhere and all electronicly controlled is there a way to make get it to be "open" (ie heat) without needing to run the engine ?
Since I will be draining the coolant I have got a new pump and thermostat to refit whilst I am in there. The car is ready for a coolant change also.
I did'nt want to get involved in a load of flushing and so I will be topping up after with Jagaur D542 (The yellow stuff) which is what is in the car. (I gave up trying to identify what D542 is and where to get it other than the main dealer!)
My question is how to get as much of the old coolant out the system without flushing. I was going measure how much comes out the radiator drain plug but I am guessing its going to be someway short of the 10ltr capacity. Is it possible to get more out out of the systme by "sucking" it out of the block once the pump is off ?
Also given the heater is burried in the dash somewhere and all electronicly controlled is there a way to make get it to be "open" (ie heat) without needing to run the engine ?
#2
#4
Dear SeanB
Thanks for the advice, I had been working on the un-founded assumption it would necessary to get 90% plus of the old coolant out before topping up with new mixture.
I looked in JTIS for coolant procedure and could'nt find anything for draining/refill, radiator removal or water pump replacement. Not sure if I am blind or if its just missing.
Thanks for the advice, I had been working on the un-founded assumption it would necessary to get 90% plus of the old coolant out before topping up with new mixture.
I looked in JTIS for coolant procedure and could'nt find anything for draining/refill, radiator removal or water pump replacement. Not sure if I am blind or if its just missing.
#5
I doubt you'll need to remove the rad. You can remove the fan assembly for space, it's a couple of bolts at the top, I think removing the plastic cover first. Then lift the fan cowl off it's guide stays and out it comes.
The water pump is an easy one also - using a spanner between 2 bolt heads (8mm I think) crack all 3 bolts and remove the water pump pulley after removing the accessory belt (this is done using a 1/2" breaker on the tensioner pulley to slacken it then slip off)
Then it's swap the pumps.
The thermo tower, there's a great tip on using shorter cap/allen bolts on the rear of the tower for ease of install, otherwise it's taking the inlet manifold off for clearance - do a search for thermostat tower swaps.
Will you be doing all the timing or just the uppers? The whole job is a bit more involved as the timing cover needs removing and the crank pulley bolt, which can hold up the best of us if you ain't got the correct tools. A pulley puller and pulley locking bar are the correct tools for this job, see images.
First, pulley locking wrench, second is pulley puller, with these it's easy, without it's nightmare...you can buy them from here,
SPX Catalog - Jaguar
or if you're a member of the JEC you can rent them from the club and give Annie Jenkins a call...
The water pump is an easy one also - using a spanner between 2 bolt heads (8mm I think) crack all 3 bolts and remove the water pump pulley after removing the accessory belt (this is done using a 1/2" breaker on the tensioner pulley to slacken it then slip off)
Then it's swap the pumps.
The thermo tower, there's a great tip on using shorter cap/allen bolts on the rear of the tower for ease of install, otherwise it's taking the inlet manifold off for clearance - do a search for thermostat tower swaps.
Will you be doing all the timing or just the uppers? The whole job is a bit more involved as the timing cover needs removing and the crank pulley bolt, which can hold up the best of us if you ain't got the correct tools. A pulley puller and pulley locking bar are the correct tools for this job, see images.
First, pulley locking wrench, second is pulley puller, with these it's easy, without it's nightmare...you can buy them from here,
SPX Catalog - Jaguar
or if you're a member of the JEC you can rent them from the club and give Annie Jenkins a call...
#6
Dear SeanB
Ty for the advice, I am doing the full monty, all chains and tensioners. I have the Laser 5147 kit off a previous user on ebay. The camshaft 'C' spanner has been severerly abused. I have had to straighten it and when the cam covers are off I will need to re-align the two pins and weld them back in.
Should the camshaft drive sprokets be so tight that the last gorillar bent the tool ? I am wondering what shape his 10mm allen key is now !
The crankshaft puller also has a slight bend in it. Its just a bit of 12x30mm bar with two 9mm holes at 74mm pitch and an M16 threaded hole in the centre. I have a beefier bit of steel on hand incase I need to make a stronger tool.
I have invested in a 3/4" 3' breaker & torque wrench for the crank pulley bolt. I have a new bolt to go back in.
Whats puzzleing me a bit, not having seen it, is how to locking the crank through the small access hole in the bell housing is going to work. From what I have read people have some used a pry bar wedged in somewhere. I am concerened about damaging the alloy houseing or the fly wheel when putting the load on the crank bolt. Is there good a description or picture somewhere how this is done ?
Regards
Neil
Ty for the advice, I am doing the full monty, all chains and tensioners. I have the Laser 5147 kit off a previous user on ebay. The camshaft 'C' spanner has been severerly abused. I have had to straighten it and when the cam covers are off I will need to re-align the two pins and weld them back in.
Should the camshaft drive sprokets be so tight that the last gorillar bent the tool ? I am wondering what shape his 10mm allen key is now !
The crankshaft puller also has a slight bend in it. Its just a bit of 12x30mm bar with two 9mm holes at 74mm pitch and an M16 threaded hole in the centre. I have a beefier bit of steel on hand incase I need to make a stronger tool.
I have invested in a 3/4" 3' breaker & torque wrench for the crank pulley bolt. I have a new bolt to go back in.
Whats puzzleing me a bit, not having seen it, is how to locking the crank through the small access hole in the bell housing is going to work. From what I have read people have some used a pry bar wedged in somewhere. I am concerened about damaging the alloy houseing or the fly wheel when putting the load on the crank bolt. Is there good a description or picture somewhere how this is done ?
Regards
Neil
#7
Is this the thermo tower part that ought to be replaced ? Outlet Pipe Assembly - AJ85885 | Jaguar XJ8 X308 - XJR, Jaguar XK8 - XKR | Jaguar | British Parts UK
I read someone replaced with an alloy part instead of plastic. Who supplies these in the Uk ?
I read someone replaced with an alloy part instead of plastic. Who supplies these in the Uk ?
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#8
Answering my own question. Is this kit required ? From the photo I am not sure if it looks the same as the plastic bit. Should be correct though ?
Thermostat Kit Aluminium - AJ82217KIT1A | Jaguar XJ8 X308 - XJR, Jaguar XK8 - XKR | Jaguar | British Parts UK
Thermostat Kit Aluminium - AJ82217KIT1A | Jaguar XJ8 X308 - XJR, Jaguar XK8 - XKR | Jaguar | British Parts UK
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