I'm about to change the transmission fluid on the 02 XJR. Does anyone have any tips? How does one get around the problem that there is a large volume trapped in the torque converter? I am thinking of just changing the fluid a few times, which will ultimately dilute the volume in the torque converter sufficiently.

I have seen tricks on the interweb, involving disconnecting at the transmission cooler, and collecting what comes out with the engine running, to overcome the torque converter problem. Has anyone tried this?

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ons-faq-54992/

 

So that procedure seems to ignore what's in the torque converter, so they're only changing maybe 2/3 of the fluid. Maybe that's good enough?

 

That's why I posted what I found to see what else we get for info.
With what does get changed, along with a filter change I'm sure is better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.

 

Well if you do it twice, then you'd have a 90% fluid change, by my calculations.

 

I think you get about a third each time. Just do multiple changes over several months until the color is fresh. No need to change the filter every time.

 

Should I change the filter the first time, or the last?

 

Boy, that is one of those questions! One with no answer, I suspect.

 

Answer no, but opinion. Once you have cleaned the pan and swapped the filter there will be very little particulate matter to remove.

I replaced my filter on the first drain, then did so again after three cycles and the filter was still very clean. That's on my XK8, but I don't think it makes a lot of difference with the Merc.

 

I changed mine four times over the course of a week or so, driving and running thru the gears each time. I would say I got 90% of the old stuff out.

Make sure you use the correct ATF! Shell 134 ATF is available cheap by the case at Ryder Fleet Products online and is correct for the Merc tranny in your XJR.
Vector

 

You can also use Valvoline Maxlife ATF. It is available for cheap at Walmart and is NAG-1 compatible which = Mercedes 722.6 transmission that is in the XJR. It is what I use instead.

 

Yes, except I cranked using the starter instead of running the engine.
You have to remove the fuel injection fuse to ensure the engine
does not start.

Fill, crank, fill, crank .....

Barbed NPT fittings will fit loosely in the threaded openings.

Easy to observe for clean fluid if you use clear hose.

Anchor the end of the hose really well. It will flail like a loose
garden hose otherwise and spray ATF all over the place.

The same routine works for flushing the power steering
except that you manually crank the wheel from lock to lock.

 

I've read elsewhere about running a hose down the dipstick tube and siphoning off fluid, then replacing whatever amount comes out with new. Thoughts on that?

 

I think it would be a good idea on the first change to clean out the pan, and change the filter, to get any debris out.

But then if you wanted to just replace the fluid a couple more times after that, to get a close to 100% change, I can't see anything wrong with using the hose down the dipstick tube.

I think that's my plan, right now.

 

The hose may not get past the restriction in the fill tube.

Of course, YMMV.

 

I used the Mityvac with a 1/4" rigid plastic tube to do subsequent changes on a XKR. But changing the filter and cleaning the pan is what I recommend on the initial change.

 

Sounds like a good plan to me. I've got a Mityvac (well, something similar enough)

 

Is the Valvoline Maxlife ATF compatible with the ZF5HP24 box?

I am having a very hard to trying to justify to myself how I can spend $~20 a litre for the ZF LifeGuard5 ATF.

 

Hmmm... See this and you may want to call their 1-800 number and ask them:

http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

 

This thread is about changing the fluid in the 722.6 transmission in the XKR/XJR. It would be better if you open a new thread to discuss the 5HP24.