Hello I recently posted this question:. While waiting for responses, here is what I have come up with.

Instead of paying the $600 going rate for a factory radiator you can replace it with an aftermarket radiator. You have 2 options original size single core will run around $67 inc S&H or you can upgrade to a two core for extra cooling capacity for around$130 inc s&h. The big catch is there is no internal transmission cooler. So you will need to add an external one($30-$70) along with, to play it safe, a thermostat for transfluid($30-$50). So depending upon what you choose you can replace your radiator for $127total on low side or really upgrade engine and trans cooling capacity for $200(the route I chose). Check Ebay for radiators I have no connection and do not sell them. Fyi the seller I purchased from did agree to a full refund including s&h both ways after a phone call.I did not include his ebay id as i'm not sure if that's ok.

Here is the info I used to base my decisions by far the most usefull data came from the honda odessy forum. I just cut and paste info to txt doc for easy reading(I hope):
cooler posts.txt


link to the honda ody trans cooler discussion:http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showth...=&pagenumber=1

 

Generic swaps can and do work. An example is I'm using a Camaro Radiator for my Jeep. However keep in mind that you should use an aluminum core radiator and NOT copper. Aluminum is more efficient at cooling and is compatible with your aluminum engine block and heads without a sacrificial anode. Also make sure the fans are shrouded so that they are as efficient as possible.

 

Another option might be having yours rebuilt (although radiator shops are becoming as scarce as a good carb rebuilder). I'd be very leary about just an external cooler in some areas and for some driving styles as the purpose of the cooler is two fold. In addition to cooling it also warms the tranny temp in the cold weather. Ideally you want your tranny fluid to be in the 140-170 range as quickly as possible for most cars. I'm glad you got yourself a gauge as I find them pretty essential for proper tranny care long term.

 

Actually the replacement I found is aluminum and has all factory style mounting/hose locations and sizes. If there is intrest i will post pics after I do the swap. there are some diffirences however I will let you all know how critical they turn out to be.

I did look into replacing tanks and haveing it recored/cleaned. Problem is, the tank with the cooler was $65 good choice if only needed one but add the cost of second $45 plus labor. I know the guy and would of only charged me $50. $170 later I would miss out on the benifits of extra capacity and have spent about the same.

The thermostat which is plumbed between the cooler and tranny is 10% open when cold but 90% of fluid is sent back to tranny for quick warm up. At 180 it is 90% open. I went with 28,0000 gvwr cooler.

The research that I came up with suggests ideal trans temp at trannys pump exit the line which comes from torque converter/pump where most heat is generated to be in the 150-200 anything over that is the heat you want the cooler to decipatate, sump(oil pan) temperatures run cooler because the oil that doesnt go to torque converter is routed thru valve body where the only real heat is generated by clutch packs/bands during shifting.

My car is currently at the paint shop. And I will do the work the weekend following its return. I will let you all know how it goes.