Gentlemen - does anyone know if the CE light will auto reset if the repair is done? I have P0455 which my FSM tells me to change the evap canister purge valve. (NOTE: There were a couple wiring things to check first for which I do not have the expertise, but I can swap this purge valve.)


My local parts store says they can not reset the light with their code reader. Is a special Jaguar reader required?


I tried disconnecting the battery but the amber engine light remained on.

 

You don't need a special Jaguar code reader to reset the CEL. Auto parts stores won't reset it as a matter of policy. They don't want any liability if something goes wrong. Usually they will only read. There are some engine codes that will clear themselves and the light after completing the required drive cycles.
I have attached a copy of the drive cycles. Make sure that the fuel tank level is at the required amount. You may have to do it more than once. If it doesn't clear you will need to find a garage that will clear it for you or purchase a scanner. I use OBDCOM only because I prefer a PC based system. OBDCOM Diagnostic Systems for ALL vehicles

 

Thanks Vern, I found a place that would clear it for me so I went and got the valve. I will monitor and advise if it clears. The parts guy said since it was emissions a deliberate reset with a tool was necessary. It might be time for me to get a code reader anyway.

 

The MIL (CEL if you like) will go off automatically if the fault is fixed, after 3 or 4 warm ups. The code will stay stored harmlessly, but not marked as current, for a long time (40 or 80 warm ups).

If you clear the codes you also clear the OBD monitors and those need to be set for inspections in most countries/states. If all is OK they should set fairly quickly but if they don't...

 

Ok, here's my check engine light story.
Woke up today and wanted to go for a drive in the xj8.
Start the car and let it warm up.
I come out and see that there is a check engine light on.
Hmmm.

I open the hood and I see my PLASTIC thermostat housing pissing onto my intake and over the engine..
UGH.

So much for my drive.

I looked at the plastic housing and just stood there shaking my head.

Called the Jag dealer and he had TWO in stock.
Picked one up.
Stopped at the parts store and got a gallon of coolant and a new thermostat.

The check engine light was coming from the knock sensor which was getting sprayed by the cracked thermostat housing. UGH.. Coolent all over the place.

Took me 3 1/2 hours to get the old one out and put the new one in. The back 2 bolts are almost under the intake, but with patience, I used an 8mm op n end wrench and got them out.
Filled the housing back up, then filled the rest in the overflow tank.

Closed it up and removed the code.

Voila, No more code and a new thermostat housing I wasn't expeting to do today.

Now I can go for my drive............. To Home Depot.

 

The water outlet pipe containing the thermostat housing on the 4.2 litre engine can only withstand a finite number of cold and hot cycles. It is a good idea to replace the water outlet each time the coolant is changed to avoid having it fail unexpectedly.

 

Ive changed the evap emission purge valve and tried the EPA drive cycle Vern suggested. Its not easy to run this cycle but I did the best I could and it did not reset. So I am going to either wait a couple more cold starts as was later suggested or get it reset. Even though my FSM told me to change the valve, its just sort of guessing as I only play a mechanic on TV. One thing that I found when chaging this valve was weird hose clapms. My eyes are not good so I took some pix and did some research. There are more people with this hose clamp question so heres how I go it off. 1) studied the picture attached 2) figured a little pick coul be pushed in the middle "hump" or sharply formed bend in the clamp. 3) I pushed the attached tool in this area and presto it opened. I don't know what this clap type is called but its very easy to open once you can get a good look at how it fastens. Stand by on the reset and if I have to take it to a real mech to fix this problem. I assume they will pressure or smoke test the system and locate any leak.

 

If you have a smartphone, consider picking up a cheap bluetooth OBDII adapter online (Amazon, ebay, etc) and using the Torque app, you'll be able to read and reset them yourself, and it's very handy to help monitor systems and temps.

 

I should invest in a reader that can clear emission CEL. I had it reset today and its fine. I spent the following before trying to clear the CEL. New gas cap $30, new emission purge release valve $ 100 (per FSM in my defense), electrical tape $0.01 to hold a loose pipe to the PS charcoal canister. I don't know which was broken - probably I could have stopped at the gas cap.

 

Turns out your should take your car to a pro. FYI, a CEL on an emission system will reset itself when repaired. You need a smoke machine if there are not obvious loose tubes/connections

 

Don't be surprised if you KS get a code again.

Knock sensors don't like wet feet and usually fail and must be replaced after a good bath. Easy on a NA car, not so easy on our supercharged "R" types.

The first line in the repair procedure is "Remove the supercharger."
Vector