hey jaguar people! just to fill you guys in i had to repair the s/c valley hoses on my 2001 jagaur xjr. two problems: codes and a cracked expansion tank under the hood? not 100% yet about this.

prior to the incident, car on idle would start over heating and loosing coolant. from passenger side i was able to spot the coolant in the valley below the s/c. no codes, not running rough just temperature would reach 210F then i would have to turn the car off. and it would loose a little bit of coolant each time. no smoke from exhaust of any color. idling at 700 rpm.

so i began the tear down and replaced the things such as coolant hoses, vac lines, water pump, thermostat. today i was finally able to add coolant and start her up for a test run. i had a coolant pressure tester with adapter. with the car off. i could hear bubbles escaping below the driver side (US) under the bumper. looking below while someone was pumping the tester. coolant would drip out just from the tank. the tank appeared to be pretty full of coolant (i am assuming from the previous overheating problem before this).

i started her up anyways to see if there was a coolant leak anywhere besides just the bumper expansion tank. she started up a little rough and threw out some smoke because i had put a few teaspoons worth of engine oil into the spark plug holes. she cranked over and i let her heat up to 110 before turning her off again. i got a few codes: ABS disabled, Traction disabled, restricted performance (something along those lines) then i did a hard reset with the battery because i did touch the throttle body and such. held the neg to positive post for 15 seconds. and reattached back to the neg.

started her up again and she instantly came to life. i let her idle for 30 mins to check if she was overheating she was 195f to 203f and the fans would kick on and cool her down to 193 once she would trigger the 205f mark. no leaks or build up of pressure. i felt the hoses by hand. but i had the expansion tank slightly dripping but the drips from the bumper became fewer and fewer?? so i am assuming the coolant expanding and pushing the it out little by little?? until it reaches a plateau.

i am starting to wonder if i miss a connection while re attaching all the wiring. here is a snapshot of the codes she threw.





shes running perfect. also i did not have a air filter installed because the old one was super dirty from oil and sitting out for 2 months. so this was just a "test to see if everything is good with gaskets" fire up. any help would be awesome guys im almost at the victory point with this project!! i cant wait to have her on the road again. first thing..shes going to get an amazing wash up!

here is a little video of her on her good days

 

Well, the P1*** is a Jaguar specific code, the P0*** is a general code. The P1111 is, I believe, from a diagnostic test done by the onboard computer.
Here's one to check for the 1671...https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...se-help-51230/
For your 1230, it may be that filter (or lack there of), check this thread....https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...related-34980/
327 knock sensor
102 & 112....https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...esolved-62188/

 

I would clear all the codes and see what ones come back first .. that's the only way to do it w/o a full diagnostic setup.

Some of those codes could be from when you first started it -- running rough.

If you google you will find a procedure to fill the cooling system. The fender tank may need to be emptied. The expansion tank will need to be replaced if cracked.

Make sure you have the small hoses correctly installed on the tank ..........they cross over with the upper hose going to the fender.

 

How long did the vehicle sit? Jags are very particular about battery voltage, and seeing that it has low voltage codes... I'd check the battery, I know when I did my ball joints (car sat for about a week) when I started it up, I had all kinds of codes (ABS, no trac, RP (due to low voltage on coil circuit D)). So, make sure that battery voltage is good, clear codes, and then see what happens.

 

HighHorse: Thank you for the links sir! I will read up on them

Yeldogt: I will do that tomorrow sir, im wondering the same thing, I did not clear the codes, also the fender tank is full and it is leaking extra. That’s what I was wondering about….if its full will it dump the excess? But it became less and less dripping. Anyway to drain the fender tank? And hoses are correct sir on the expansion tank, they cross 

Bcrary3: the car sat around for 2 months, I worked on it my days off; also was in middle of changing jobs so it was on the back burner. I planned ahead about the battery while it was sitting I disconnected the negative terminal. When I started it up it was at 11.8V a little low because I also did a compression test before all the surgery.


The things I have done….there is a thread…Gopi’s supercharger rebuild and coolant hoses in more detail.
When I first discovered it was overheating…

1) I drove it home about 5 mile drive home…she reached 232F also the expansion tank ran empty…so head gasket testing time!

2) Disconnected the fuel relays from the trunk and a removed all the spark plugs and attached a compression tester, for each cylinder cranked the engine over 5x all the chambers held pressure and ran between 115-120psi dry test.

3) Assumed the head gasket was safe…begun cutting her open without
starting her since that….

4) Replaced water pump (was plastic! Changed to metal), thermostat (185F), and vacuum hoses (around throttle body) and coolant hoses(around the expansion tank), norma connectors, temp sensor, replaced and heat-reflective wrapped the valley hoses.

5) Put her all back together. Added a little oil in each cylinder since she was sitting for a long time. Added faucet water…I know I know it was just for testing…I will be getting 15 gallons of distilled water and thoroughly flushing the water out. Did a coolant pressure test without her started… she started leaking coolant from the fender tank (bumper one)…the reason I think that was because the adapter works with the coolant cap removed…so leaving the port open in the expansion tank open. Usually the gasket on the cap stops it until it is over pressured and lets coolant out? Correct me if im wrong about that please!

6) fired her up…she was hesitant and smoked for a few seconds probably around 40 seconds and idled a little low 550-650rpm. She threw those codes….I let her do her own thing once the temperature reached 110F. I shut her off. Did a hard reset from negative terminal to positive.

7) fired her up again, she instantly started and stayed healthy, not hesitant codes were still there….but running perfect. Let her reach operating temperatures 192F….last time she kept climbing and would hit 218-222F and I would have to shut her off instantly, fans running and everything. This time she would hit 205F and the fans would kick on and she would start dropping and go down to 192F and stay there for a while and repeat…let her do this for at least 20-30 minutes while keeping an eye on her temp. Turned her off for the day. and ran here for the codes lol

Plans for tomorrow:
Changing the mineral water to distilled water with proper coolant. Getting an air filter and cleaning the MAF with compressed air. Then finally resetting the codes and praying they don’t come back. We don’t need these filthy-butt-clenching codes here!! Also getting more heat resistant tape and going around the engine bay and wrapping anything that needs to be protected.

Also guys I have the hood off…on the driver side there was a ground attached to the hood mount…what does that ground out? Because I did not ground it the first time…if needed to ground I will ground it out tomorrow with a wire. I don’t plan on throwing the hood back on until the jobs 100% done.

 

#1 suspect: battery

 

Clean the MAFS with MAF cleaner only. Compressed air won't work and may cause damage.

I recall someone mentioning that ground to te hod, but I don't have one and I think others don't also.

The battery should be at 12.4 V before starting. 11.8 is looking for trouble.

 

I would leave the MAF alone ... get it all back together and run it a bit. See what codes come up.

You mentioned ... oil on the air filter ?? I don't get this ...maybe a clogged breather? people repot this with the earlier engine -- Nikasil. You are past that .. so it's something else.

If it looks like oil may be on the MAF -- and you are getting a code .... I would invest in some proper cleaner. I have spoke to many -- and no one reports saving a damaged MAF from cleaning. Some clean as part of maintenance -- I'm in the camp of leave it alone.

 

Jagv8…battery is good sir just installed it a month before the overheat issue.

RJ237: I was debating to do that today but luckily, when I erased the codes, it didn’t come up again. But I did install a new air filter…during that time I did not have an air filter installed.

Yeldogt: yes sir I left it alone…luckily after erased codes it was good again. And the filter it was just sitting on the shelf in the garage for two months with parts all around it. It became dusty and dirty with drips of oil from the elbow when I removed it and sit it along it…got a new one in today 
….
oh! and this was the ground i was mentioning earlier.. it just grounds out to a bolt directly below...





So what I did today….

I bought 15 gallons of distilled water from Wal-Mart, a bit excessive but made sure it was all out. And bought coolant from an auto store…they tried to sell me some red coolant saying that it was OEM….i didn’t buy it since I had orange coolant in there prior I stuck with orange coolant…a universal orange coolant without silicate, nitrite, phosphate. Drained from the radiator and added at least 10 gallons of distilled before closing up the radiator coolant drain and added my coolant. Aired the system out. No overheating running like a champ..let her heat up to 205 around 140 I saw slight smoke and vanish..knew there was a drip somewhere…its dripping from below the expansion tank…here is a picture…




also that sticky crap...its from an engine cleaner...fml made it look much worse...its like stained on now?? anyway i can remove it..i believe the engine cleaner i used was called GUNK heavy duty engine greaser. now it does not want to come off lol


Went to the back, hard reset from the battery. Turned the ignition on but not crank yet…let it do its thing for a minute then cleared the codes…then started her up….

This is the code that remains… :/ all others are gone tho 




also!...never had an issue with the knock sensors before, they never threw a code, and i did not disturb them during my rebuild. so did i miss a wire ...or did they just decide to go bad...i did spill coolant quiet a few times when i was trying to figure out why it was overheating (early stages).

Let her run for a good while 30 mins and rescanned the codes multiple times during and this was still there. Giving me a performance reduced CEL as well….i did drip some coolant from the supercharger port.

Help I need from you guys and gals 

1) How can I remove the expansion tank and get to that hose, most likely a loose clamp or the L shape elbow had cracked somewhere.

2) About the code….what can I do???

Thank you!

 

I copied this from a post by steveinfrance, whom is quite knowledgeable.

The P0327 code means
Poor sensor contact with the cylinder block
KS to ECM sense circuit short circuit to ground
KS failure

So, with that said, trace your wire contacts...and yes, they can go bad from a repair. Not being touched for many years and being in those conditions, all it takes is a bump or change of conditions.
Replace that elbow, odds are its dry rotted under the clamp.
As for that grounding strap, yes it grounds the hood, going from the top hinge of the hood to the bottom hinge grounding to the body. I believe the hinges are a pot casting and thus don't ground well (if at all), thus the strap doing its job.

 

Knock sensors are allergic to coolant, so it may need replacing if the connections are good.

That might be a Norma connector if it doesn't have a hose clamp, not that familiar with XJ8. Removal of the header tank requires release of clamp to hose under tank, unplug sensor, disconnect small hoses on top. Be careful with the rigid hoses, they break easily. The little clamps can be released with pliers and a small screwdriver.

P1000 shows ecu emission system tests incomplete, will change to p1111 when they are.

 

im glad you guys are taking time to help me out...i couldnt thank you guys enough, so once again thank you!

alright time for a plan...

1)its saying bank 1...what side is bank 1 of the engine...

2)should i check the connector with a multi meter and if so what should the results be?? or should i drive her around for a few days to see if the code clears? (i read on a thread that it takes a few successful non-knocking drives for the computer to clear itself? do not know if that is true or not, but does not hurt to try)

3)there is no way in hell im opening her up again! so sensor relocation time... i can get a sensor from a local auto parts store looked around 30 dollars....duralast knock sensor with the same connector for our jags part number SU7012

4)explain to me how a sensor might read incorrectly please...can i mount it to the engine block and have it make contact with the aluminum and thats it ...or is there more to it? i did read on a thread here where a member was able to relocate...i am planning on doing the same with just that side...until the time where i have to remove the s/c again and ill correctly install it.

5)im starting the think i might have pinched the sensor wire while installing the front base of the s/c....ill take a good look today. but even if that ... still gotta relocate it.



also could someone explain to me how the knock sensor works...and how it is "supposed" so i can find a proper location for it. ex: does it need a screw to function correctly or just a good contact point? does it need some force to measure correctly from the screw??? ....i have no experience in knock sensors.


also! i ordered valve cover gaskets both sides (Victor VS50397 set)...when i have the drivers side off... that is when ill change that L connector under the tank...