Hello all:

On my XJ8 VDP I need to replace the lower ball joints as the boots are very badly torn and they are contaminated. I also have a squeak in the control arm bushing (dry).

I am thinking that it will be best to remove the lower control arm and press out the ball joins and bushings, but in order to do so I must compress (possibly remove?) the coil spring. This isn't a job I look forward to, but looking for the tool, I have found one on Ebay that I can buy for $500.00 (too much money) I am curious to know how I can fabricate one, or if there is a less expensive one out there that will work for the front springs. I'd have a shop take out the springs and I'd fit the bushings and ball joins, but none of the local shops are willing to do this unless I have them do all of the work ($$$$).

Any suggestions would be great!

Thanks,
B

 

There are some parts houses that can loan or rent you tools such as spring compressors.

 

I am curious if the bars that clamp to the outside (like you'd find at AutoZone) would work.

Or perhaps something like this: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...OMPRESSOR-KIT/

 

If you feel you need to purchase the tool, that appears to be a good choice.

Another example: Auto Clamshell Strut Spring Compressor Suspension Tool | eBay

 

So, assuming I use the MATCO tool, would I want to completely remove the spring, or just compress it enough to take the pressure off so I can get the A-arm out?

Thanks

 

The commonly-held opinion is that the only safe way to compress the spring on these cars is with the Jaguar tool, or a replica of it. All the other external spring compressors are not safe.

I'm in the same position myself.

 

What would the reasoning for that be I wonder?

I wonder if anyone has been able to safely do it with other types of compressor tools?

 

See this discussion here :

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...joints-155705/

 

I completely forgot about the curved springs!

I will have to rethink this.
I need to replace the bushings.

What was the thought process when designing the suspension of these cars?

 

Perhaps a forum member has the spring compressor you can borrow.

This thread has photos of spring compressor and procedure:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...l-joint-78634/

 

I haven't looked closely enough at the front end of my 99 XJR yet but did find a youtube video from someone who put new front wheel bearings (and brake pads & rotors) on his. I found it by accident so I'm not sure what the best search title would be. The director/ actor/ camera man shows the MAC spring compressor then mentions, after he comes back, that it wouldn't work on the front springs.
I used to have a clamshell spring compressor like the ebay version but from harbor freight. I used it once on a strut job and it jammed on the spring, then released unexpectedly. I felt lucky that it only broke my finger as it landed on my shop floor just past my foot.That would have really hurt! It went on top of the trash can the next week and was picked up (hopefully) for scrap, where it belongs (IMHO).
Bottom line someone on the web specifically says one won't work and my experience would have me not recommending the other, FWIW.

 

I had a shop change out my front suspension - I even fabricated a tool for the spring compression but didn't quite have the confidence or the set up to do the job myself. I bought a scrap set of wishbones/spring pans and re-bushed/ball jointed myself, saved a few hours af garage labour which more than made up for the cost of the scrap set.
I was charged £350 all in for the swap including the Jaguar spring tool hire (£50) and fitting of track rod ends, dont know what that equates to in USD these days.
Whichever way you decide to go the job is a ballache.
The bushes need to be virtually destroyed to get them out and pressed in properly with a shop press. Same with the ball joints which need to be cut out at the top lip prior to pressing out.
This suspension set up was used on the X300 models (not sure about the XJ40) so is fairly "outdated" but serves the car well.......

 

"This suspension set up was used on the X300 models (not sure about the XJ40) so is fairly "outdated" but serves the car well......."

Actually, the X308 got an updated front suspension, out of the XK8. It's not the same as the X300. It's supposed to have reduced tramlining.

 

Hire - Spring Compressor (Front)

Would that work?

It says for x300 is there any difference in the suspension between the x300 and the x308?

EDIT:
I did not see your previous post, Mark. But the question still stands, would this tool be acceptable to be used for this suspension?

I am also curious, there is a roll pin in the tho of the tool, does it just lock into the spring pan or how does it work exactly?

Thanks

 

Yes you are right - I was refering principly to the curved spring set up and the need for speciifc tools to dismantle..... Forgot my old X300 had bolt on ball joints !

 

Note comment by Mark SF above.

The compressor for hire is located in the UK.

 

JEC has a tool for hire for the X300 for about $100 USD, I am not sure if it is at all compatible with the X308?

 

There is a procedure to remove the spring pan using threaded rod. This is well established for X300 and XJ40 and although the X308 suspension is different the design is essentially the same (2 lower arms and a separate spring pan). I have used the procedure on an X308.

The process is to replace each of the sping pan bolts (one at a time) with a piece of threaded rod (about 300mm long) and a good nut tightened up. (From memory the XJ8 size is M8).

Once that has been done, the nuts can be backed off gradually and the spring pan will come with them. Refitting is the reverse.

A few tips if anyone decides to use this.
- Use high tensile threaded rod (8.8 at least)
- Grease the rods
- ideally use threaded rod connector nuts rather than normal nuts and have a backup nut behind each one for added safety
- Through sockets and/or ratchet spanners will make life easier

Here's a picture of fitting my X300 springs so you get the idea.

 

Interesting!

I believe that ACME threaded rod and nuts have the strongest thread and are the least likely to strip.

 

Do you have any more photos of this procedure?

Thanks,
B