Coolant reduction/not over heating....
#62
All your explanations lead up to ttwo things, a buggered thermostat and a possible stuffed water pump....thes two are the only things that will upset the cooling system in the fashion you have described....the external temp is irrelevant, as if the system is working correctly it will self compensate.
get apressure check done and an exhaust gas sniffer test.
These systems work very well when operating normally....no second guessing!
get apressure check done and an exhaust gas sniffer test.
These systems work very well when operating normally....no second guessing!
#63
Now he’s come back to me with a couple of prices.
First price is the minimum things will cost, this includes thefollowing:
Labour X 20 hours (in real terms he said this is more like 30)
Skimming of both heads
New engine head bolts X 20
Top tensioners X 2
Head gaskets
Total £1554
The second price includes replacement of some of the none essential items but in the long run It might make sense doing them now, this includes:
Labour X 20 hours
Skimming of both heads
New engine bolts X 20
Top Tensioners X 2
Head gaskets
Bottom tensioners X ?
New Chain and guides
New Oil and filter
New Gasket for water pump
New Coolant hoses under supercharger X 2
Total: £1900 (tops)
I have chosen to go for the second option, not sure if this is the right plan for now as it’s a stupid amount of money to spend on a car that on the market today is probably only worth £3000 bearing in mind I have a £500 exhaustfitted last month. But I think it’ll bring piece of mind in the long run, the only major fault that could happen with the car next on this kind of scale after having £1900 spent is gearbox failure (touches wood).
Your opinions are always welcome….
First price is the minimum things will cost, this includes thefollowing:
Labour X 20 hours (in real terms he said this is more like 30)
Skimming of both heads
New engine head bolts X 20
Top tensioners X 2
Head gaskets
Total £1554
The second price includes replacement of some of the none essential items but in the long run It might make sense doing them now, this includes:
Labour X 20 hours
Skimming of both heads
New engine bolts X 20
Top Tensioners X 2
Head gaskets
Bottom tensioners X ?
New Chain and guides
New Oil and filter
New Gasket for water pump
New Coolant hoses under supercharger X 2
Total: £1900 (tops)
I have chosen to go for the second option, not sure if this is the right plan for now as it’s a stupid amount of money to spend on a car that on the market today is probably only worth £3000 bearing in mind I have a £500 exhaustfitted last month. But I think it’ll bring piece of mind in the long run, the only major fault that could happen with the car next on this kind of scale after having £1900 spent is gearbox failure (touches wood).
Your opinions are always welcome….
As to the question of the two quotes, taking the more comprehensive route was a wise choice. Throw in a thermostat and waterpump.
#64
I did consider this, but after speaking to the Jag man these aren’t big job on their own if they ever need replacing at a later date, the water pump has been replaced for a later one already but it’s not the latest one if that makes sense, let’s call it a phase 2. So I think I’ll leave it for the time being but I’ve taken your advise on the under coolant hoses.
#65
If that is a picture of your car, it looks great. I would not worry about the market price of the car, or over capitalisation, it is a Jaguar which will give you a great deal of pleasure over the coming years. Sure, it has cost some money to restore, but now you KNOW that it is a good car, and can enjoy it. If we wanted safe and boring we would drive a toyota echo.
Yeah true thanks for the reassuring comments
#67
You've taken the right option & if I was in your position I'd have gone down the same route. After everything you've done to the car & all the bodywork restoration, the market value is irrelevant anyway & the true value of the car is what it's worth to you personally.
At the end of the day you'll have a classic Jag with full bodywork restoration & now with a full top-end engine rebuild-you've also got a steel-linered block & will have all new tensioners fitted, so you've had all the major work done & have effectively got a new car.
These were £50,000 cars in their day so of course the repair bills will be more than for a VW Golf etc. But you've got a classic Supersaloon that's now been virtually rebuilt mechanically & from a bodywork point of view as well.
A bill of around £1900 is about what you'd expect for this type of repair on a complex V8 engine-but it should be a once-in-a-lifetime job & effectively give you a 'new' engine, as you've not got any Nikasil worries either. Provided you keep doing regular oil & filter changes & never let the oil level drop below the MAX mark on the dipstick, you should be fine for another 150k miles.
These days you can easily spend stupid sums of money just to have small modern hatchback cars repaired, but you've got a classic Jag supersaloon instead-and I know which I'd rather be driving home from the garage in after a big repair bill
At the end of the day you'll have a classic Jag with full bodywork restoration & now with a full top-end engine rebuild-you've also got a steel-linered block & will have all new tensioners fitted, so you've had all the major work done & have effectively got a new car.
These were £50,000 cars in their day so of course the repair bills will be more than for a VW Golf etc. But you've got a classic Supersaloon that's now been virtually rebuilt mechanically & from a bodywork point of view as well.
A bill of around £1900 is about what you'd expect for this type of repair on a complex V8 engine-but it should be a once-in-a-lifetime job & effectively give you a 'new' engine, as you've not got any Nikasil worries either. Provided you keep doing regular oil & filter changes & never let the oil level drop below the MAX mark on the dipstick, you should be fine for another 150k miles.
These days you can easily spend stupid sums of money just to have small modern hatchback cars repaired, but you've got a classic Jag supersaloon instead-and I know which I'd rather be driving home from the garage in after a big repair bill
#68
#69
Ok peeps, got the car back and I’m pleased to say she's running sweet as a nut!! The guys seem to have done a good job on her. The missing on cold startup has gone now and also the idle is much smoother. The bill came to £1894 in the end with 20 hours labour, skimmed heads, replacement gaskets on the heads and cam cover, replacement chain kit including metal upper and lower tensioners and guides. The water pump was checked and proved to be a phase 2 pump in good working order. Oil and coolant change. Also a few other things.
I have a couple of concerns, I can smell coolant in the car still and I’ve been driving it around town for a couple of days now, I would have thought it would have burnt it off by now. I have questioned the bloke that did the work and he said a lot was split while taking the pipes and engine apart and he had to top up the coolant level with 2 litres when he put it back together, So he said this was normal but it I still have concerns next week to take it back toget it checked out.
Also I check the coolant level this morning and it seems to have used around half a coolant filler tank of coolant, he also said this would happen as there would be air in the system to start off with. I will top up later and hopefully the level should stay steady from this point on.
I also had my wheels refurbished yesterday, they are in a “bling”ish silver but I don’t think it stands out as being cheap and nasty and quite suits the car, opinions welcome.
She 's off next week to have rust scab on the drivers door seen to and alsorear arch, the bank holiday weekend I hope to give her a good 4/5 hour detailing session so will post pictures on the results.
I’d also like to thank every-one who has posted in this thread and helped me out over the past few weeks, the support on this forum is fantastic and the people that contributed went a long way to towards helping one make the correct decision in this situation.
I have a couple of concerns, I can smell coolant in the car still and I’ve been driving it around town for a couple of days now, I would have thought it would have burnt it off by now. I have questioned the bloke that did the work and he said a lot was split while taking the pipes and engine apart and he had to top up the coolant level with 2 litres when he put it back together, So he said this was normal but it I still have concerns next week to take it back toget it checked out.
Also I check the coolant level this morning and it seems to have used around half a coolant filler tank of coolant, he also said this would happen as there would be air in the system to start off with. I will top up later and hopefully the level should stay steady from this point on.
I also had my wheels refurbished yesterday, they are in a “bling”ish silver but I don’t think it stands out as being cheap and nasty and quite suits the car, opinions welcome.
She 's off next week to have rust scab on the drivers door seen to and alsorear arch, the bank holiday weekend I hope to give her a good 4/5 hour detailing session so will post pictures on the results.
I’d also like to thank every-one who has posted in this thread and helped me out over the past few weeks, the support on this forum is fantastic and the people that contributed went a long way to towards helping one make the correct decision in this situation.
Last edited by L80ous; 03-22-2013 at 06:57 AM.
#70
I could smell coolant for a couple of weeks after replacing various parts, so don't worry yet. Your coolant reservoir should maintain level after 4-5 drive cycles. Have you set set the heat to max to be sure the heating system is purged. If the odor and coolant level problem persist much longer, look for a leak around the thermostat tower and in the area of the heater.
#71
#72
The temp. gauge is for entertainment only. As the coolant temp increases to about 185 F the needle will go towards mid-scale, but it will not go over that until about 235 F, when it will suddenly go red, but then it may be too late to save the engine if you do not shut down immediately. However, if the coolant level is below the sensor located on the water outlet pipe at the front of the engine, you will not detect an overheating condition.
The best way to be better informed is to buy the Realgauge mod from whitexkr. Check his website, I think it's thejagwrangler.com.
The best way to be better informed is to buy the Realgauge mod from whitexkr. Check his website, I think it's thejagwrangler.com.
#73
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bairnsdale,Victoria Australia
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Great thread and really enjoyed your journey.As just mentioned the RealGauge from the jagwrangler would be worth while for your peace of mind..having gone this far.(it works for me)
Looking forward to the "final" product picture and hope you get many years of enjoyment from the jag.
It's a nice sunny day so might get mine out for a wash and a Sunday Drive. Thanks Again and Cheers,Neil
Looking forward to the "final" product picture and hope you get many years of enjoyment from the jag.
It's a nice sunny day so might get mine out for a wash and a Sunday Drive. Thanks Again and Cheers,Neil
#74
#75
#76
#77
Glad to hear your XJR is back on the road again. The temp gauge may be reading low as it's so cold here at the moment & short trips around town won't really get enough heat into the engine-especially as you're likely to have the interior heaters on high as well. You'll get a better idea after a 30-50 mile motorway run or cross-country, which will put some heat into the engine.
Regarding the coolant smell-just check the coolant level each morning when the engine is cold & keep an eye on it. With airlocks, what usually happens is that the coolant level will drop noticeably over the first couple of days as the air vents upwards-then it will settle down & should remain reasonably constant.
As you say, the garage will be happy to investigate for you if there's any leak in the system, so just keep an eye on the coolant level & gradually 'break' the car in with progressively longer journeys each day as you become more confident that everything's ok with the overhaul.
I did this after doing the Bentley's head gaskets. The first session was an extended period of fast idling in the driveway to warm everything up & recheck liquid levels. Then I took it round the block on drives within walking distance of home if there was any serious problem!
Once they were done satisfactorily, I took it down the motorway & gradually extended the trip length & engine rpm/throttle position-after about 100 miles of this I was then confident enough to start driving it normally again & let the engine 'breathe deeply'
Regarding the coolant smell-just check the coolant level each morning when the engine is cold & keep an eye on it. With airlocks, what usually happens is that the coolant level will drop noticeably over the first couple of days as the air vents upwards-then it will settle down & should remain reasonably constant.
As you say, the garage will be happy to investigate for you if there's any leak in the system, so just keep an eye on the coolant level & gradually 'break' the car in with progressively longer journeys each day as you become more confident that everything's ok with the overhaul.
I did this after doing the Bentley's head gaskets. The first session was an extended period of fast idling in the driveway to warm everything up & recheck liquid levels. Then I took it round the block on drives within walking distance of home if there was any serious problem!
Once they were done satisfactorily, I took it down the motorway & gradually extended the trip length & engine rpm/throttle position-after about 100 miles of this I was then confident enough to start driving it normally again & let the engine 'breathe deeply'
#78
Final post in this thread, I promised some photos of the finished car back on the road and here we are (for any-one thats interested), with a nice english spring sunset to boot.
Please to say all is well with the car running sweet as always. the temp gauge still hardly moves from 1/4 way but I'll investigate this soon.
Enjoy.....
Please to say all is well with the car running sweet as always. the temp gauge still hardly moves from 1/4 way but I'll investigate this soon.
Enjoy.....
#80
[QUOTE=Red October;703996]Glad to hear your XJR is back on the road again. The temp gauge may be reading low as it's so cold here at the moment & short trips around town won't really get enough heat into the engine-especially as you're likely to have the interior heaters on high as well. You'll get a better idea after a 30-50 mile motorway run or cross-country, which will put some heat into the engine. - END QUOTE]
Believe it or not, there are two thermostats available for this engine....in F degrees either 195 or 175.
I fit the 195 for Winter use.
BTW...these thermos are excactly the same as that used by Volvo's 850 series engines.
Believe it or not, there are two thermostats available for this engine....in F degrees either 195 or 175.
I fit the 195 for Winter use.
BTW...these thermos are excactly the same as that used by Volvo's 850 series engines.