XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Crank no start after cam swap

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Old 11-03-2016, 05:59 PM
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Default Crank no start after cam swap

So I have a 1998 jaguar xjr supercharged, i recently did a engine swap on it( i put an aj27 engine into it from a 2001 xjr) , then after doing the swap , i swaped the cams from the aj26 and put them into the aj27 engine. Hooked everything up ,cranked it a few times and it started for about 30 seconds with me feathering it. Now I can't get it to start at all it just cranks and cranks , like it did before I swaped the cams. Has anyone had this problem before or know how to fix it . Or what things to test to further diagnos it ? Please be detailed
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:25 PM
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Well, do you have sparks? Do you have fuel? Check those things first and you'll know what side to look on...
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:32 PM
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I have spark and fuel that's why I'm not sure what it is or could be
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:42 PM
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What was the original reason why you changed the cams or better the engine?

Because it wouldn't fire up?

What about the immobiliser? Tried a different key?
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:49 PM
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I changed them so ton be compatible with the 1998 computer because the reductors are different, so it wouldn't start. And no i haven't tried the other key , wouldn't the security light come on if it was the immobilizer?
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:20 PM
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You did set the valve 'lash' when you swapped the cams, RIGHT????

The lifters are NOT hydraulic and there are shims to set the proper clearance.

BORE WASH??

You only need to swap ONE CAM. The 'B'bank intake. All other cams can be left in place. There is no CMPS on the 'A"bank for the AJ26 engine. The 4 lobe reluctor will not matter.

The 'B'bank intake cam needs to have the SINGLE reluctor. The CMPS needs only that one for proper engine management. (AJ26)

bob
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:24 PM
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I don't believe so ,I'm not sure what the valve lash or bore wash is , can you explain what they are and how to do it please
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:36 PM
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Bore wash is common. Engine doesm't run long enough to get warm. Excess fuel washes the oil off of the cylinder walls. Really bad compression is the result. The engine will take a while to start.

Try simply holding the key in position for a while. Not kidding. Crank it a while and it might splutter back to life. I had to crank mine a good 40 seconds non stop before it came back to life... Or you can put a dab of oil in each cylinder turn the engine over a few times, fit the spark pkugs again and then try.
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:41 PM
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OK I'll give that a try, will it still work if i haven't set the valve lash?
 
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Old 11-03-2016, 10:55 PM
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The engine should still run... Even with really bad settings. I wouldn't run it long though, as you don't know if the exhaust or intake valves are closed enough to prevent possible backfiring (into the intake) or burning the exhaust/intake valves...
 
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:24 PM
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isn't there a difference with the flywheel and sensor for timing between these 2 engines?
 
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Old 03-15-2018, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Dhighlife27
OK I'll give that a try, will it still work if i haven't set the valve lash?
I would start with the Camshaft Position Sensor. First, as mentioned by Bob, the reluctor (on the left intake camshaft) should have one "tooth" and the sensor should be in good working condition.

With a bad cam sensor, you can still start the engine if you keep the ignition in ON position for about 40 sec. before cranking (during this time the TCM will detect bad cam sensor and redirect itself to reading the crank sensor instead). Of course, the engine will start is the crank sensor is good.
 
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:32 AM
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Another resurrected thread! I think the OP didn't swap the starter ring gear, just the cams.
 
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