As mentioned before, low voltage of the battery is the number one reason of fault codes, especially where u are using it all the time.
Before you draw any conclusions, be absolutely sure your battery is topped up, and can handle the use.
Then delete the codes, and try again.
The fact they did not show up before make it suspicious the least.

 

How does the PATS disable starting? Could you be able to crank and not start? What system is turned off or disabled?

 

So I had the car towed to a local Jag only shop on June 28. I got a call the next day and was told that needed a fuel pump, which I questioned because I got 40 psi on the Shrouder valve on the fuel rail. The tech convinced me that that would resolve the problem.I authorized the fuel pump. A week later I had not heard back and called the shop and was told that the car was "running rough" and there were "glitches" in the six and seven coil, and the main fan was not coming on and the secondary fan was coming on when the AC was turned on and he needed my authorization to charge me for diagnosing the problem which he believed was the fan module. I authorized the diagnosis for the fan module on July 5. I did not hear from the shop and on July 11 when I contacted the shop to find out the results of the diagnosis since they hadn't called me back and where's contacted the next day and was told the price for the fan module that he had diagnosed as faulty. I authorized the repair. I was told that they had to order the fan module. I heard nothing from the shop and I contacted the tech on July 18 and was told that he had to test drive the car for 10 minutes. I call the next day and was told that he hadn't test driven it and it was raining. The next day I texted the owner of the shop and was told for the first time that the tech was having a hard time testing for The fan because the car was in restricted performance due to the coils. So here I am 23 days after I dropped my no-start jaguar off at the Jaguar shop, and I've got a Jaguar running with restricted performance. as a sidenote, the shop wanted to replace the spark plugs which of been put in 25,000 miles ago, and replace the thermostat. According to tech he got good compression which had been a problem when I was trying to start the car. Any suggestions? Should I just have it towed back to my house? Should I authorize him to replace the two coils? Could that be the reason why it's in restricted performance? I'm really getting depressed over this.

 

I would get it out of that shop. If you are able to work on the car yourself you will have plenty of help here, and if you need another shop someone may be able to suggest an alternative.

 

My suggestions if this was my car.
1- Get the car back as RJ suggested. I think this mechanic is using your money to test his guesses. If he is sure of his prognosis tell him to buy the coils and if that solves the problem then you will pay for them and his labor. If it doesn't work tell him he can put those coils in a picture frame on his wall because they are his. In other words put them where the sun don't shine. Sorry about the rant but it ticks me off when shops want to use your money to test their theories.

2- Read your codes to see what you have now. If it shows bad coils do the switch to other cylinders and read your codes again to see if the code moved with the coil swap. If it is the coils send me a PM. I have several spare coils that I will send you for just shipping cost. You already put enough money in it.

3- change your cam cover gaskets. It's possible that the person that did the tensioner upgrade may have reused the same gaskets and that may be why your getting oil on your plugs.

4- Relax. There are a lot of experienced members on this forum with tons of knowledge and they will get it figured out.

Good luck.

 

So I had a long discussion with the shop owner and the mechanic on speakerphone. The tech says that he checked the coil's with a coil tester after he got misfire codes, and he actually switched out the two coils he identified with good coils and car ran fine. Now he's telling me that the fan module was not what was causing The main fan not to come on after he switched out the fan module, and he says both fans come on only if you have AC on. The shop owner says they have taken the fan module off of the repair receipt. I thought that I had read on the forum that the secondary fan would only come on with the AC on, but he says I'm wrong. Owner says that it's a wiring problem with the fan and it will cost big bucks to trace it down.So I can drive the car with the AC on and it won't overheat according to tech. Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond to my post. I'm getting a quote from shop to replace the two coils. They've offered to let me come down and replace them myself. I checked the forum post and the consensus seems to be that the OEM Jaguar coils are highly recommended over the aftermarket coils. That's sucks because you can buy a whole set of aftermarket coils for the price of one Jaguar coil.

 

On my 01, both fans came on with A/C on. Only one ran until over 210*F.

If the tech swapped the coils, as he told you, and the fault followed the coils, the coils are bad. I am not convinced that OEM are worth the expense.

BUT . . . what was the real cause of the car cranking but not starting? Was it really a bad fuel pump . . .?

 

Other members please correct me if I'm wrong. I purchased a coil from autozone and it was a Denso with the same numbers as the origionals.
Also it seem weird how you have a perfectly good rumming car and the next day it needs 2 coils a fuel pump and has wiring problems.

On the last time it was driven did it overheat. If the fan wasn't working wouldn't it overheat. If it overheated that maybe giving the low compression reading you had.

 

Clogged fuel filter...Dead fuel pump. Check fuel pressure at the rail.

 

I thought I was over the hump: tech called and said with the two new coils car was running perfect. I figured I could now come and drive the car home. I was wrong. The fans only come on when AC turned on and as stated earlier, and switching out the fan module did not solve the problem. Now that he has got it running, says one hose from radiator is hot, one is cold. One side of radiator is hot, one is cold. Thermostat checked and is working. Says it may be clogged radiator and wants to switch it out with another one and see if that works. Claims that is not air in system since air is purged automatically. He says the car does not overheat. This is driving me insane. On Monday, it will be in this shop for 4 weeks.

 

Time to find a new mechanic.

 

They do suffer airlock sometimes, and I still think you need to get the car out of there while you have some money left.

 

Sounds like it has two issues: a bad thermostat (I don't care if this tech thinks it is working); and a wiring harness issue on the fan. Do both fans come on when the A/C is activated or just the second fan?

But if it is running well, starting routinely, and not overheating, Pay up and get out of that shop. Wonder which shop; doesn't sound like either Rosenthal dealerships.

 

Tech said that when AC turned on, both fans come on. Without AC on, neither fan comes on.