Hey everyone, its been a long time and my jag has sat in the garage awaiting parts and tools. Well, its all finally here and ready to go! I am very eager to proceed and get her up and running. I rented the tools from Christopher for $75, but I'm a bit confused. I think what I received is the crankshaft setting tool, and did not receive the locking tool to remove the pulley bolt. So, my two questions are, can I use the setting tool to remove the pulley? If not, has anyone on here removed the pulley bolt using other creative means? Thanks in advance!

BTW, Sparkenzap thank you so much for the exhaust cam!

 

Hope it works out- I thought you fell off the face of the earth!
The manuals are emphatic that you SHOULD NOT use the peg for crank bolt removel. That is because it pushes into a thin stamped rotor that could bend before the bolt gives.

Some have reported using a large screwdriver or drift of some sort to pin the flywheel, but I did not see how to do that effectively, I even remember someone saying he had broken an ear off of the bell housing doing that. Anyway, what I use is an old piece of fan belt wrapped around the pulley, then a heavy duty Rigid pipe strap wrench. On my XJR, it took a 3 ft breaker bar with a 3 ft pipe on the stap wrench. So, it seems there is some risk using my method as it might seperate the inner hub from the pully which apparently has a rubber isolator.

I would love to hear from the pros how they do it.

 

I've used this recently, it works well when the engine's on the floor, but not tried it with the engine in situe, haven't tried, but it must lock up against the chassis.

SPX tool number 303-191 from either Jaguar: SPX Europe tool catalog
or Front Pulley Lock - Engine Tools - 303-191

I used to remove the pulley bolt by heat directly on the bolt head, this softened the threadlock, a 2' breaker bar with my foot on it. With the crank setting tool holding it in place. Having looked at the starter ring gear the setting tool goes into, I agree with Jaguar.

 

Hey Ross, yeah it certainly has been awhile. My poor jag has just sat the past months as I worked on some of my other cars. Between college, work, and my various other projects I just haven't had the time. But now I'm ready and very eager! I'm hoping to get her up and running before the weather changes. I would really like to get her painted before it gets too cold. The belt strap wrench sounds like a good idea, I might give it a shot. Also, just wondering, did you get that card I sent?

Quote:

I used to remove the pulley bolt by heat directly on the bolt head, this softened the threadlock, a 2' breaker bar with my foot on it. With the crank setting tool holding it in place. Having looked at the starter ring gear the setting tool goes into, I agree with Jaguar.

@Sean: I'm not sure I fully understand. Did you actually use the setting tool to hold the crank in place while you removed the pulley bolt?

 

I removed it with a good impact wrench, but I had already removed the radiator so I had room to get the impact wrench in there to get it off. Then a regular gear puller to get it off.

 

Jeff -
With the impact wrench, did the inertia of the crankshaft keep it from turning, or did you need to use a tool to immobilize it? And how long to remove the radiator? Easy enough to make this the preferred method?

 

I could go get an impact gun if need be. My father has one... I can't have the crank turn too much. I have the exhaust cams' chains disconnected from the intakes. The chains will flop around if the crank turns too fast. That would be great if the inertia keeps the crank from moving a ton.

 

I did not use anything to hold the crank in place. I do not think that it moved hardly at all. I was pulling my engine for full replacement so I did not have to be as careful, I just needed the crank pulley to transfer to the new engine. I would think if you have something to put in the flywheel sensor hole it would not move at all. I made my own tool out of a rod coupling to hold the flywheel in place. I was originally going to tear down the engine and do my own rebuild but decided against it. I had made several tools, including a hold down tool for the camshafts. I can take some pictures of them and post them if anyone is interested.

 

Thanks for sharing Jeff, I will definitely give that a shot. I'll see if I can get the bolt off tomorrow with my dad's impact wrench. Hopefully the engine does spin up to fast .

 

That tool is like a magnifying glass lol

 

Borrowed the impact gun, and that thing is on their TIGHT! I tried heating it too, but that did not help. I'll give that belt strap wrench idea a shot, anything else I should try before I go buy a tool? Thanks you all for the help!

 

I use a 24" Chain Wrench and a 24" Snap-On 1/2" drive ratchet wrench to remove the 24mm head bolt. Put a section of poly drive belt over the damper and secure it with tape the keep it from being damaged. Even if you ruin the damper it is cheaper than a torque converter drive plate with a bent segment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have posted a story of the guy in the Jag shop that used the lock tool to hold the crank and bent a segment. Long story short we had to replace the drive plate for a crank/cam position sensor relationship fault!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob gauff

 

Thanks bob. Thats the way I figued it.

 

Here's the drive plate Bob, Ross and me are on about, it's not built for over 300Nm of torque......silly money from Jaguar, just shy of a grand to replace - don't rely on the crank locking plug. The plug slots in the oval hole, if this is mis-shaped then the crank position sensor is screwed, strap up the crank damper and stick with a hefty impact wrench/long socket bar, a bit of heat on the bolt head will help break down the threadlock, but be careful not to cook the rubber in the damper.

 

The black onyx tutorial wasn't bluffing when it said it was the "trickiest part of the whole operation". I cannot get this damn thing OFF!!! I've tried the torque converter locking method in the tutorial (the pry bar keeps sliding out) got a belt strap wrench that ended up snapping after applying a lot of force to the breaker bar. I've heated the bolt with a blow torch and sprayed some penetration stuff on there numerous times. What a stubborn bolt! The impact gun doesn't even feel like its doing anything! I've noticed a few forum members have made the locking tool from scratch. Would anyone be willing to sell one to me? It doesn't have to be perfect, just has to get the job done.

 

This is what I have used since the V8 was introduced in 1997.
The split cones are on the later engines.

bob gauff

 

Motorcarman, What is the length of the chain? Any particular tool brand that you know is sturdy enough for the job?

 

I bought mine from Harbor Freight but I borrowed a buddies Blue Point Chain Wrench for a few times until I bought my own.

CW24A, Wrench, Chain, 23" chain, 24" handle length

Here is the one sold by Snap-On.

Wrap the pulley with a section of old drive belt or you will damage the pulley grooves.

I've never had the rubber come apart in the damper but there is always that danger.
The proper Jaguar tool took longer to use and could not always be found in the toolroom!!

bob gauff

 

Thanks for the chain length information, Bob. I've been curious about it as I searched for the wrenches online.

 

What size and thread are the bolts to be used to attach the gear puller for the crankshaft pulley?
I am starting the chain tensioner/chain replacement and will need to get the pulley off.