Crankshaft Seal Question
#1
Crankshaft Seal Question
Got a quick question guys. I'm about to install the crankshaft seal but I'm unsure which way does it go? I've put a pic below, which side faces out (pointing to the front of the car) A or B?
A has the white ring in the middle tapering inward, and the black part is filled with grey foam. B has a little flat lip on the white center ring and the black part is empty. I'm inclined to thing the A side faces outward, is this correct?
#2
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Trying to escape Central Florida
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#3
#4
#5
As long as you didn’t already install the seal in the front cover, the plastic ring will come out. If you already installed it and the cover is installed on the engine, pull the seal back out but you’ll most likely need to replace the seal because you’ll likely destroy the seal upon removal.
#6
The inner ring is definitely only there to supports the lip of the seal before install, it is not part of the install. Remove the inner ring and install the seal with the "A" picture facing towards you. Once you remove the inner seal you will see that the "inside" or "backside" of the seal contains the spring that supplies pressure on the lip to create a seal. Be sure to install the seal flush to the crankcase and so that it is at a flush 90 degrees to the crankshaft.
#7
The inner ring is definitely only there to supports the lip of the seal before install, it is not part of the install. Remove the inner ring and install the seal with the "A" picture facing towards you. Once you remove the inner seal you will see that the "inside" or "backside" of the seal contains the spring that supplies pressure on the lip to create a seal. Be sure to install the seal flush to the crankcase and so that it is at a flush 90 degrees to the crankshaft.
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#8
Yes, lip seals are an interference fit and sometimes they can be difficult to install straight/flush, often best to use something (a socket or piece of plastic piping of the same diameter) to knock it in straight. Lubricating the outside circumference also helps ease the seal into place.
Bottom line is the "solid" side of the lip seal should face to the "outside"......the side that does not have to be sealed. And the side with the open cavity and circular spring goes to the "inside".......the side that you want to maintain a seal.
ABOVE: ..............This side to the outside, visible to the installer upon installation .............................
BELOW: This side to the "inside", the side usually not visible to the installer, and the side that contains fluid that needs to be sealed from leaking.
Bottom line is the "solid" side of the lip seal should face to the "outside"......the side that does not have to be sealed. And the side with the open cavity and circular spring goes to the "inside".......the side that you want to maintain a seal.
ABOVE: ..............This side to the outside, visible to the installer upon installation .............................
BELOW: This side to the "inside", the side usually not visible to the installer, and the side that contains fluid that needs to be sealed from leaking.
#9
Yes, lip seals are an interference fit and sometimes they can be difficult to install straight/flush, often best to use something (a socket or piece of plastic piping of the same diameter) to knock it in straight. Lubricating the outside circumference also helps ease the seal into place.
Bottom line is the "solid" side of the lip seal should face to the "outside"......the side that does not have to be sealed. And the side with the open cavity and circular spring goes to the "inside".......the side that you want to maintain a seal.
Bottom line is the "solid" side of the lip seal should face to the "outside"......the side that does not have to be sealed. And the side with the open cavity and circular spring goes to the "inside".......the side that you want to maintain a seal.
#10
Not all lip seals have the inner spring, many modern standard lip seals are molded so the polymer material acts with a mild "spring" pressure on the sealing lip of the seal. Spring pressured lip seals are a slightly more sophisticated version used in critical services.
Don't worry that your seal may not be a spring pressure type, the example I showed above just happened to be of the spring pressure type.
if yours is the listed replacement type then it is fine as a standard lip seal.
Same rules apply, the "smooth side" to the outside, the "cavity side" to the inside.
Don't worry that your seal may not be a spring pressure type, the example I showed above just happened to be of the spring pressure type.
if yours is the listed replacement type then it is fine as a standard lip seal.
Same rules apply, the "smooth side" to the outside, the "cavity side" to the inside.
#11
#12
The spring he is referring to is the one inside the lip seal. There are several variations with some having the felt and some being made of rubber. As long as you remove the protective plastic and seat the seal with the felt facing to the crankshaft pulley you’ll be okay. And don’t worry about the gap between the inside of the seal to the crankshaft. The actual pulley fills that in to completely seal it.
Last edited by PORNO; 06-26-2019 at 05:01 PM.
#13
Not all lip seals have the inner spring, many modern standard lip seals are molded so the polymer material acts with a mild "spring" pressure on the sealing lip of the seal. Spring pressured lip seals are a slightly more sophisticated version used in critical services.
Don't worry that your seal may not be a spring pressure type, the example I showed above just happened to be of the spring pressure type.
if yours is the listed replacement type then it is fine as a standard lip seal.
Same rules apply, the "smooth side" to the outside, the "cavity side" to the inside.
Don't worry that your seal may not be a spring pressure type, the example I showed above just happened to be of the spring pressure type.
if yours is the listed replacement type then it is fine as a standard lip seal.
Same rules apply, the "smooth side" to the outside, the "cavity side" to the inside.
The spring he is referring to is the one inside the lip seal. There are several variations with some having the felt and some being made of rubber. As long as you remove the protective plastic and seat the seal with the felt facing to the crankshaft pulley you’ll be okay. And don’t worry about the gap between the inside of the seal to the crankshaft. The actual pulley fills that in to completely seal it.
Now I just need to install the crank pulley. I'm looking at the workshop manual and for the torque specs fro the crankshaft damper bolt it has two listing, one for "no locking ring" which list it as 80NM plus 80 degrees, and one for "with locking ring" at a surprisingly high 375NM. What is this locking ring? I think I have to kind without but I'd like to be sure.
#14
I'm pretty sure they are referring to the "crankshaft collet" (item 12 in the diagram below) which you probably have.
And yes, the torque setting for the damper bolt is very high (375nm/276ftlb) I purchased a 50-250ft lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight specifically for this job
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64064.html
It is recommended that you use a new damper bolt, (item #4 in the diagram below) which comes treated with blue locktite, and you should also inspect/replace the damper seal (item 11 in the diagram below) it is a very narrow "o" ring that fits inside the damper pulley.
And yes, the torque setting for the damper bolt is very high (375nm/276ftlb) I purchased a 50-250ft lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight specifically for this job
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64064.html
It is recommended that you use a new damper bolt, (item #4 in the diagram below) which comes treated with blue locktite, and you should also inspect/replace the damper seal (item 11 in the diagram below) it is a very narrow "o" ring that fits inside the damper pulley.
#15
I'm pretty sure they are referring to the "crankshaft collet" (item 12 in the diagram below) which you probably have.
And yes, the torque setting for the damper bolt is very high (375nm/276ftlb) I purchased a 50-250ft lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight specifically for this job
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64064.html
It is recommended that you use a new damper bolt, (item #4 in the diagram below) which comes treated with blue locktite, and you should also inspect/replace the damper seal (item 11 in the diagram below) it is a very narrow "o" ring that fits inside the damper pulley.
And yes, the torque setting for the damper bolt is very high (375nm/276ftlb) I purchased a 50-250ft lb torque wrench from Harbor Freight specifically for this job
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...nch-64064.html
It is recommended that you use a new damper bolt, (item #4 in the diagram below) which comes treated with blue locktite, and you should also inspect/replace the damper seal (item 11 in the diagram below) it is a very narrow "o" ring that fits inside the damper pulley.
#16
collet has stuck to the pulley the two times I’ve removed my
pulley and I have the s/c one as well.
The following users liked this post:
Carnival Kid (06-27-2019)
#17
I still don't think I've got this. It is not stuck to my pulley because I sent out the pulley to be refurbished, and I don't see anything like it in my pile of parts, nuts, and bolts.
#18
Do you recall your pulley looking like the one in my pictures? If so I would suggest you buy the split collet so you can install it when you get your pulley back. That’s an essential piece to having the pulley seat on the shaft. I’m sure it wouldn’t be good not having it and hope it didn’t do any damage if it wasn’t installed prior to you removing it. May i ask where you’re getting your pulley refurbished and what did you look for to decide you wanted to refurbish it?
#19
Do you recall your pulley looking like the one in my pictures? If so I would suggest you buy the split collet so you can install it when you get your pulley back. That’s an essential piece to having the pulley seat on the shaft. I’m sure it wouldn’t be good not having it and hope it didn’t do any damage if it wasn’t installed prior to you removing it. May i ask where you’re getting your pulley refurbished and what did you look for to decide you wanted to refurbish it?
#20
All X308's will have them. They keyed version was for older engines.
Is the bore of your crankshaft damper straight through, or is it tapered with the wide end towards where the bolt goes in? If it's straight through, it's most likely just so tight in there that you can't see the slot on it. If it's tapered, then the collet piece was lost somewhere along the way.
I'd knock the collet out if it's in there before reinstall, just to make sure everything goes together properly. New bolt too. Trust me, you don't want to roast your crankshaft from the pulley coming loose and spinning along... I did some damage to mine, but replaced everything (pulley, collet, bolt), built a crankshaft damper holding tool, and cranked the hell out of it, and it hasn't moved since. Some pictures of the damage from coming loose on a highway pull (and the correct seal orientation)
Is the bore of your crankshaft damper straight through, or is it tapered with the wide end towards where the bolt goes in? If it's straight through, it's most likely just so tight in there that you can't see the slot on it. If it's tapered, then the collet piece was lost somewhere along the way.
I'd knock the collet out if it's in there before reinstall, just to make sure everything goes together properly. New bolt too. Trust me, you don't want to roast your crankshaft from the pulley coming loose and spinning along... I did some damage to mine, but replaced everything (pulley, collet, bolt), built a crankshaft damper holding tool, and cranked the hell out of it, and it hasn't moved since. Some pictures of the damage from coming loose on a highway pull (and the correct seal orientation)
The following 2 users liked this post by nilanium:
Carnival Kid (06-27-2019),
PORNO (06-27-2019)