Crankshaft Seal Question
#21
All X308's will have them. They keyed version was for older engines.
Is the bore of your crankshaft damper straight through, or is it tapered with the wide end towards where the bolt goes in? If it's straight through, it's most likely just so tight in there that you can't see the slot on it. If it's tapered, then the collet piece was lost somewhere along the way.
I'd knock the collet out if it's in there before reinstall, just to make sure everything goes together properly. New bolt too. Trust me, you don't want to roast your crankshaft from the pulley coming loose and spinning along... I did some damage to mine, but replaced everything (pulley, collet, bolt), built a crankshaft damper holding tool, and cranked the hell out of it, and it hasn't moved since. Some pictures of the damage from coming loose on a highway pull (and the correct seal orientation)
Is the bore of your crankshaft damper straight through, or is it tapered with the wide end towards where the bolt goes in? If it's straight through, it's most likely just so tight in there that you can't see the slot on it. If it's tapered, then the collet piece was lost somewhere along the way.
I'd knock the collet out if it's in there before reinstall, just to make sure everything goes together properly. New bolt too. Trust me, you don't want to roast your crankshaft from the pulley coming loose and spinning along... I did some damage to mine, but replaced everything (pulley, collet, bolt), built a crankshaft damper holding tool, and cranked the hell out of it, and it hasn't moved since. Some pictures of the damage from coming loose on a highway pull (and the correct seal orientation)
Here is a before pic of my pulley before I sent it out to be refurbished. I know you can't se much here. I'll try and take a pic of the refurbished one this weekend.
#22
All X308's will have them. They keyed version was for older engines.
Is the bore of your crankshaft damper straight through, or is it tapered with the wide end towards where the bolt goes in? If it's straight through, it's most likely just so tight in there that you can't see the slot on it. If it's tapered, then the collet piece was lost somewhere along the way.
I'd knock the collet out if it's in there before reinstall, just to make sure everything goes together properly. New bolt too. Trust me, you don't want to roast your crankshaft from the pulley coming loose and spinning along... I did some damage to mine, but replaced everything (pulley, collet, bolt), built a crankshaft damper holding tool, and cranked the hell out of it, and it hasn't moved since. Some pictures of the damage from coming loose on a highway pull (and the correct seal orientation)
Is the bore of your crankshaft damper straight through, or is it tapered with the wide end towards where the bolt goes in? If it's straight through, it's most likely just so tight in there that you can't see the slot on it. If it's tapered, then the collet piece was lost somewhere along the way.
I'd knock the collet out if it's in there before reinstall, just to make sure everything goes together properly. New bolt too. Trust me, you don't want to roast your crankshaft from the pulley coming loose and spinning along... I did some damage to mine, but replaced everything (pulley, collet, bolt), built a crankshaft damper holding tool, and cranked the hell out of it, and it hasn't moved since. Some pictures of the damage from coming loose on a highway pull (and the correct seal orientation)
So here is my refurbished pulley, and yes I can see it in the picture. So that brings me back to my previous question, if all x308s have these then this cannot be the locking ring since the x308 workshop manual list models without locking ring. So what is the locking ring how do I know if I have it and which torque spec do I use?
#23
#24
#25
So here is my refurbished pulley, and yes I can see it in the picture. So that brings me back to my previous question, if all x308s have these then this cannot be the locking ring since the x308 workshop manual list models without locking ring. So what is the locking ring how do I know if I have it and which torque spec do I use?
Last edited by PORNO; 07-01-2019 at 06:00 PM.
#26
So here is my refurbished pulley, and yes I can see it in the picture. So that brings me back to my previous question, if all x308s have these then this cannot be the locking ring since the x308 workshop manual list models without locking ring. So what is the locking ring how do I know if I have it and which torque spec do I use?
The split cone is the locking ring. No, not all x308’s have the locking ring/split collet. If you run into an x308 that does not have it, then that tells you that it is using the woodruff key in which case yours doesn’t have, albeit your xjr is MY 2000 correct?
#28
Told you it was stuck. You had me doubting myself even after doing 3 different Xjr’s haha. Anyways don’t work yourself up over that locking ring. That cone has several different names that Jaguar refers to it as. Split collet, split cone, locking cone, and a few others. You have the collet and the picture you provided proves that you definitely do not have the other. And as far as torque spec, it is 364-386 nanometers. IIRC the MY closer to 2003 have the collet and not the woodruff key.
Forgot to answer a part of your question.
The split cone is the locking ring. No, not all x308’s have the locking ring/split collet. If you run into an x308 that does not have it, then that tells you that it is using the woodruff key in which case yours doesn’t have, albeit your xjr is MY 2000 correct?
The split cone is the locking ring. No, not all x308’s have the locking ring/split collet. If you run into an x308 that does not have it, then that tells you that it is using the woodruff key in which case yours doesn’t have, albeit your xjr is MY 2000 correct?
#29
I did the same, my torque wrench only goes up to 250ftlb, I torqued it to the 250 max and that is one hell of a torque, and it has been no problem since. A new bolt comes coated with blue loctite so there is a double security.
#30
Yeah my plan is to torque it to the 250 ft lbs then use a breaker bar to try and give it and extra 1/8 turn for good measure.
#31
#32
Well I torqued it down to 250ftlbs the max for my torque bar. Then tried to turn it some more with the breaker bar but just couldn't get it to move any further. My breaker bar was starting to flex a lot to the point I thought it might break, and I was holding the crank pulley with a pair of those chainlink vice grips and a cheater bar slide over the handle. Ended up bending the chain grips so much to the point they are unusable now. So 250 ftlbs will have to do I guess.
#34
#35
Yes I am asking about the crankshaft main oil seal. They keep talking about removing a plastic piece after installation. My seal does not have one is that normal? The seal is black and mine has a somewhat hard copper in color hard piece attached to the rubber seal on the inside. Oh by the way there is also a felt ring on the outside (facing out).
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