Cruise control not working
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So this past weekend I decided to tackle an annoying slow coolant leak. Indications were it was coming from somewhere under or around the throttle body.
I pulled the TB only to find the coolant was coming from under the SC. Deeper inspection showed it was coming from the bypass hose up by the water pump.
So now you know the back story.
I put everything bak together and for two days all was good. Today the cruise control will not turn on. No power light and will not set.
So I pulled the intake hoses and inspected the connectors on the TB. found the upper one on the right side was not fully engaged. I cleaned it and made up the connection.
Still no cruise. The light on the power switch will flash one time when the key is turned on, but after that nothing.
Any ideas?
The car is an '02 XJR.
I pulled the TB only to find the coolant was coming from under the SC. Deeper inspection showed it was coming from the bypass hose up by the water pump.
So now you know the back story.
I put everything bak together and for two days all was good. Today the cruise control will not turn on. No power light and will not set.
So I pulled the intake hoses and inspected the connectors on the TB. found the upper one on the right side was not fully engaged. I cleaned it and made up the connection.
Still no cruise. The light on the power switch will flash one time when the key is turned on, but after that nothing.
Any ideas?
The car is an '02 XJR.
Last edited by pingj; 07-25-2013 at 09:50 AM. Reason: added year and model
#3
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#7
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Hey guys. I borrowed a code scanner from a co-worker that had the 02 XJR listed in its database. There were 3 codes, P0171, P0174 and C1165.
The P codes are bank 1 and 2 too lean. The C1165 if my research is correct indicates the Right Rear Wheel sensor is the problem. Can anybody confirm?
Also the code scanner I have, ACTRON 9580 will not clear the ABS code. So that leads me to believe the C1165 may not be correct.
I was going to jack up the car, and swap the RR and LR wheel sensors and see if I can get the code to change.
Any other thoughts?
The P codes are bank 1 and 2 too lean. The C1165 if my research is correct indicates the Right Rear Wheel sensor is the problem. Can anybody confirm?
Also the code scanner I have, ACTRON 9580 will not clear the ABS code. So that leads me to believe the C1165 may not be correct.
I was going to jack up the car, and swap the RR and LR wheel sensors and see if I can get the code to change.
Any other thoughts?
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#8
#9
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The common fault is the ABS module motor power pins on the circuit board.
I just replace BOTH of my XJ8s ABS modules.
One is the JLM21323 2000MY> and the other is the JLM20555 1999MY.
I have boxes full of modules with DTC C1095 so I just cut the cases open and re-solder the pins.
If I ever find a module with a network fault I SCRAP the module!!!!
I don't know what section of the module to mess with if it fails with anything other than a C1095.
There is info everywhere on the internet about re-soldering the pins so you might try that as a cure or at least preventative maintenance.
I think the 'wave soldering' process in manufacture might not heat the pins enough for a solid, long lasting circuit. They are ALWAYS cracked on the board. Maybe it is not enough solder for the mechanical vibrations of the motor pins?????????
Without a reading of the ABS module you will not be sure of the fault but the re-solder won't hurt.
bob gauff
I just replace BOTH of my XJ8s ABS modules.
One is the JLM21323 2000MY> and the other is the JLM20555 1999MY.
I have boxes full of modules with DTC C1095 so I just cut the cases open and re-solder the pins.
If I ever find a module with a network fault I SCRAP the module!!!!
I don't know what section of the module to mess with if it fails with anything other than a C1095.
There is info everywhere on the internet about re-soldering the pins so you might try that as a cure or at least preventative maintenance.
I think the 'wave soldering' process in manufacture might not heat the pins enough for a solid, long lasting circuit. They are ALWAYS cracked on the board. Maybe it is not enough solder for the mechanical vibrations of the motor pins?????????
Without a reading of the ABS module you will not be sure of the fault but the re-solder won't hurt.
bob gauff
The following users liked this post:
pingj (07-29-2013)
#10
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The common fault is the ABS module motor power pins on the circuit board.
I just replace BOTH of my XJ8s ABS modules.
One is the JLM21323 2000MY> and the other is the JLM20555 1999MY.
I have boxes full of modules with DTC C1095 so I just cut the cases open and re-solder the pins.
If I ever find a module with a network fault I SCRAP the module!!!!
I don't know what section of the module to mess with if it fails with anything other than a C1095.
There is info everywhere on the internet about re-soldering the pins so you might try that as a cure or at least preventative maintenance.
I think the 'wave soldering' process in manufacture might not heat the pins enough for a solid, long lasting circuit. They are ALWAYS cracked on the board. Maybe it is not enough solder for the mechanical vibrations of the motor pins?????????
Without a reading of the ABS module you will not be sure of the fault but the re-solder won't hurt.
bob gauff
I just replace BOTH of my XJ8s ABS modules.
One is the JLM21323 2000MY> and the other is the JLM20555 1999MY.
I have boxes full of modules with DTC C1095 so I just cut the cases open and re-solder the pins.
If I ever find a module with a network fault I SCRAP the module!!!!
I don't know what section of the module to mess with if it fails with anything other than a C1095.
There is info everywhere on the internet about re-soldering the pins so you might try that as a cure or at least preventative maintenance.
I think the 'wave soldering' process in manufacture might not heat the pins enough for a solid, long lasting circuit. They are ALWAYS cracked on the board. Maybe it is not enough solder for the mechanical vibrations of the motor pins?????????
Without a reading of the ABS module you will not be sure of the fault but the re-solder won't hurt.
bob gauff
I'll let you know what I find
#11
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think I have found the problem with my ABS.
Take a look: Here are the before and after pics.
I put the module back in long enough to test and the ABS light went out right away.
Take a look: Here are the before and after pics.
I put the module back in long enough to test and the ABS light went out right away.
Last edited by pingj; 07-30-2013 at 06:57 PM. Reason: added another pic and explanation.
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