So I recieved the 2nd set of head bolts this afternoon, and set to work installing the driver's side head. I've got it bolted on now and the cams install torqued and the locked and I'm putting on the secondary tensioner when I noticed something. On the driver's side the tensioner sits with the piston that provides tension pointing up and the larger size platic "pad" on the top, but looking at the one I installed on the passenger side, the piston is facing down and the smaller "pad" is on top.
I now the driver's side is the correct way up because there was a small hole in between the bolt holes that looked like it was for an oil passage and it lined up with a hold in the cylinder head. I wasn't paying to much attention when installing it on the passenger side, the screws were left in the tensioner from when I removed it and so I just put it in that way. And looking at it I don't see a hole inbetween the bolt heads on the pass side so I think I've installed it correctly, but I just want to double check.
Are the driver's and passenger side supposed to be pointing opposite ways up?

 

Yes, they point opposite ways, you are doing it right.

.

 

Thanks.

The 2nd head is now installed cam gears and secondary timing chain installed.
And now we wait...
Can't go much further until new parts arrive. Awaiting new timing chain guides and crank seal and o-ring for the timing cover. They should arrive sometime this week. Until then I've just got a short list of little things to do, like connect some hose and vacuum lines.

 

So I've received the new timing chain guides and I'm attempting to continue with installing everything, but already I'm running into a problem. On the passenger side when I try to install the flat chain guide (the one that has two holes, one of which sits on a peg) when install the guide on the peg and attempt to bolt it in things start to bind up as I hand tighten it. Its almost has his the bolt hole doesn't quite line up when the other end is one the peg. I could probably tighten it down with a wrench but I'm worried about stressing the chain guide two much and either breaking or or weakening and cracking it so that it breaks later down the road.
I have no problem installing flat guide on the driver's side and I've even swapped out the guides to the other side but still get the same problem the pass side.
Since I've got no problem on the drivers side, and the two guides both fit ok on that side and both don't on the passenger side, I'm wondering if the peg on the passenger side is bent. Any suggestions what to do?

 

I can't think of a reason why your passenger side guide is being a problem. I do remember that because the straight guides run so close to the crank gear(s) there is quite a lot of pressure on them as the chain has to make a "tight" angle directly from the crank gear to the guide, but I don't remember anything you describe. Is this with just the straight guide fitted i.e. the curved guide not yet installed? The lower, curved guide is of course pressurized by the tensioner which should at this stage still have its retaining pin installed.

I don't think there is a possibility of incorrect fitment but I have attached the above picture for reference anyway


.

 

This is without the chain even installed yet. The workshop manual said to install the flat guide first, then the chain, then the curved guide and tensioner (although on the driver's side I had to remove the flat tensioner to get the chain over the crank sprocket, and I imagine I'll be doing the same thing on the passenger side).

This is as far as I could hand tighten the bolt before it got stuck...

 

I got the timing guide installed, but I'm still a little worried that it was too forced in place. I was able to "hand tightening" it by using the socket turning and turning it by hand. It did seem to ease up as it got close to threading all the way in. Then I torqued it down.
But no i've reached my next stumbling block. I cannot get either side primary tensioners on. The piston on the tensioner only depresses about 1/8-1/4 in which I suspect is all it is supposed to as that makes things line up for the time from the timing tool set.
Even with it depressed there just is not enough room to get it on against the curved chain guide. I even tried removing the guide to install the tensioner first but there was not even enough room to get behind the chain alone with no guide there.

 

OK so I figured out the tensioners, I didn't realize that I had to release the lever on the side to depress the piston all the way. They are both installed now and tightened down.

 

OK, my next question: I've reach the step where I'm to tighten the camshaft sprockets. The service manual says to use a new bolt, what's the reason for this? It's not a TTY bolt is it? Any problem with reusing the old bolt? I don't have a new bolt, should I ignore the service manual and just continue or get a new bolt?

 

There are TSBs that were issued 'back-in-the-day'.

bob

 

Sounds like this applies only to the NA cars with the VVT? Shouldn't be a problem reusing the bolts on an SC car?

 

Well it didn't take long for me to reach another stumbling block. When tightening the camshaft sprocket bolts to the 20NM + 90degrees, it was on the 90degree part that my chain tensioner tool decided to brake. The metal itself buckled and one of the pegs fell out.
Anyone got any ideas for an off the shelf or DIY replacement?

 

So I cam up with a solution to my broken tensioner tool. I has and extra set of cam sprockets from another set of heads that were warped, so I used that to make this. I got some grade 8 bolts at the local hardware store, and a flat brack that acts as the handle. I bolted it on and drilled a hole in the center of the sprocket to give the hex bit to tighten the cranshaft sprocket bolt, and voila! DIY chain tensioner tool. I rather like how steam punk it looks too!

 

I got tired of having only one side to orient the holder so I made a double sided tool.

Many ways to solve a problem. Good to see you devised your own!!!!!!!!!!!

bob

 

Looks good man! Definately less DIY looking than mine.
I have to say I'm surprised how easily my original tool broke, it couldn't even hold up to the loads specified in the manual for the job it is supposed to be intended to do! And for the price some people charge for those timing tool kits its even more shocking.
Also my DIY tool was much easier to use, since I used and actual cam sprocket the cam slide into the center of the sprocket on my tool which made it easier to hold in place. With the original tool I found it kinda a PITA to use as it keep slipping out was I tried to provide counter torque.

 

So now I've got the cam in the timing chains on, the cam gears bolted and torqued and I was sure the next step was to put back the timing chain cover. But the next step in my service manual says to install the VVT bush carrier. Now it was been a long while since I took this engine apart but I don't remember there being anything there and I can't find any part like that in my bin of everything I removed from the car. Just want to confirm that I don't have this on my SC car because it doesn't have VVT? I can just ignore this step, right?
Now to my next stupid question, the coolant outlet pipe. The service manual says to replace the sealing rings. Do I need a jag specific part for this or can I just use a rubber o-ring. I've got a box full of assorted o-rings I'm sure one would fit.




So that's where thing sit here. I've cleaned off the timing chain cover surface on the engine side and I'm currently cleaning off the old gasket from the timing chain cover itself. That's probably as far as I'll get today. Hopefully install that tomorrow. Which reminds me of one more question, should I but a thin bead of gasket maker around the timing chain cover or is the gasket along good enough?
Looking forward I know I'm going to need a new water pump gasket, hopefully that will be easy enough to find locally tomorrow, then I think its onto the fuel rails and intake manifolds. I've already got new gaskets for that. I was planning on reusing the gaskets fro the supercharger and the rest of the intake track, the service manual says to replace them but they look in good shape, think thats ok?

Sorry for all the stupid newbie question, I just want to make sure I get this thing back together right. I don't have a lot of experience with these cars and this is the first time I'm attempting this or anything this major on one of these cars, so I want to make sure I do it correctly, I'd hate to have to do this over again!

Thanks again to everyone for all the help.

 

The coolant outlet pipe seals are not just 'O'rings but must protrude 'proud' of the plastic or aluminum pipe to seal on the engine. Regular 'O'rings might fall too far into the grooves to seal.

I would be more inclined to re-use the original seal than to chance a 'regular' 'O'ring.

NCA2268BC superseded to C2C11477 is the part number.

bob

 

Thanks I was just searching for that part number, but failing to find it.

 

Scooby, A new timing cover gasket shouldn't need gasket maker along its entirety, but it is advisable to apply silicone gasket sealer to the points where the timing cover meets joints on the engine block. The image below shows with blue circles where to apply to specific points...............