Hi All,

I have been handed the keys to a Daimler V8 that is in rather a lot of TLC to get up and running!!

As you can see from the photos (I hope) it has been left to nature for what I have been told is 5 -7 years. Initially, I have changed the battery to see, if by any luck it would start, and, it didn't. I am ok around cars, but I am definitely no expert and have very basic tools. The engine seems to turn over, yet does not fire.

I'm thinking that I need to drain the old fuel and replace the fuel filter, is this a good idea?

 

Nice find Bumble, with some patience, kind words and hopefully, just a little work you could have a very nice Daimler there.

What is its year and mileage?

I would say that you definitely need to drain/flush the gas tank, probably replace the fuel filter, then check that the fuel pump is working (they are a weak point on this model). Also it may be a good idea to replace the spark plugs.

 

Hi Carnival Kid,

It is a 1997 model with approximately 104,000 miles on the clock!!

Was hoping to go over it this weekend, hoping to at least drain the tank, replace the filter and add some new fuel!!

 

Here is a couple of things to try.
1. Turn the key to the #2 position, the instrumental panel lights should come on and then complete their checks and shut off. Open the hood and remove the cap from the schraeder valve on the fuel piping. Press the valve down like you were letting air of a tire. Did you get a burst of fuel, if yes then the fuel pump is working. When you first turn the key before starting position the fuel pump runs for about 3 to 5 seconds to charge the fuel rack. If you didn't get a burst of fuel try swapping the fuel pump relay with any identical relay and check the relay fuse to be sure it is good.
2. If you are getting fuel then check fuel tank level. is it a 1/4 tank or lower? If so you can just add 5 to 10 gallons of fresh fuel to the old fuel and it should be ok for starting.
3. The last thing once you know you are getting fuel get in and push the accelerator all the way to the floor. Hold it there for the next few steps, don't release it. Now, crank the engine for about 30 seconds and then stop of 1 minute then crank again for another 30 seconds and rest again for 1 minute. Repeat the crank and rest for 6 cycles. Then crank the engine as starting and slowly release the pedal up from the floor. Did it fire? If not you may need to repeat the crank rest cycle again. Sitting that long the oil on the cylinder walls dry off and you lose compression.

 

I would also check for nests or critters in the air filter box and intake system.....5 to 7 years makes for a nice critter house

 

Bumble, as per avern1 suggestion................here are pics of the fuel rail Shrader valve location, plus the fuel pump relay in the trunk/boot.....

And yep, as per scottjh9, definitely do a thorough search for nibbling critters and their nests!

 

Evening all,

A little side question, how and why is there such a wide price range for spark plus?

I can find some for as little as £10 to nearly £50 each. What should I be looking out for when buying spark plugs?

 

I personally use NGK Iridium plugs in my vehicles. Here in USA 10 to 12 dollars when on sale.

 

Yes, there are various "qualities" and types of plugs, with prices to match.

As avern1 indicates NGK Iridiums are the recommended and preferred type among forum members, they are the top of the range and have a long life, a little expensive, but with some searching you should be able to find packs of 4 for around $35-$40, so around $70-$80 for a full set.

You have the early A26 V8 engine (the later V8 is the A27) and I think the recommended plugs for your year are NGK PFR5G-13E, the later A27 motor uses NGK PFR5G-11Es (not sure but I think the only difference is the gap, 1.3mm for the A26 and 1.1mm for the A27)

 

Nice find, I am pulling for you to get it going, you'll love her for sure.

As for the plugs, be careful, some sites charge...ahem...extra for them simply because they are going in a Jaguar and are trying to take advantage of folks. Using the numbers CK provided, you should easily be able to track down some reasonably priced ones.

I would also check the vacuum lines for rot and break through.
Check the breather tube coming off the cam cover to the intake tube just behind the MAF.
You can unplug the MAF (in case its bad) and the car will go into a default mode so you can at least start it.
If you can get it up in the air, check the CPS (crank positioning sensor). If this is covered with crud or bad (check the wire connection) it won't start.
Good idea to change the fuel filter, as said, they can and will gum up sitting over time.
I attached 3 pdf's about starting, electrical checks and fuel pressure checks.
Also in my Signature there's a How To link to prompt to review. The link leads you to the beginning of this forum at the top.

 

Nice, looks like you have a rewarding project on deck !

 

Hope everyone is having a good weekend!!!!

Just an update on the situation after spending a day under and around the car.

• To be wishful thinking, I sprayed a load of "Easy Start" down the throttle body . . . . . It started, only briefly, but started.
• I checked the fuel pressure by pressing down on the Schrader valve . . . . NOTHING, not even a dribble.
• I switched over the fuel pump relay . . . . NOTHING.
• I removed the sound proofing from the rear of the fuel tank . . . no noise what so ever.

I am therefore guessing that I have a fuel pump issue, and a fuel pump replacement on my hands. I quickly checked into the fuel filter, it cannot and will not be budged. All the corrosion and crap over the years means that as soon as I introduce a spanner to it, it twists the whole fuel line, which I think I may have cracked.

Good thing is, I have a good few free weekends on my hands so I can slowly change the fuel pump. Therefore, any advice and words of wisdom will be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

Absolutely under no circumstances do not try to remove the tank until you disconnect the fuel lines first. If you kink those, you in for a world of work. If they do not want to come out with standard fuel/AC disconnects. Please come back and we'll assist with that also. I've been through it, but there's no sense describing something you may not need now.
After that the process is somewhat straight forward....
...remove all the rubber connections.
...I used a couple 2x4's cut to length in the trunk (mainly to traverse the spares well) and slid it back. In my case there was no need to remove the tank from the boot, but you probably should and give it a good going over.
...hopefully these screen shots will assist you.
...In the last screen shot, replace #8 for the purge canisters, its a 15-20 minute deal and are an issue with going bad. It will give you a code 0455 in due time almost assuredly.

 

Quick question . . .

Reading through the workshop manual, do I need this tool . . .

"Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes from the fuel tank:

•  Fit special tool JD-203 around the pipe as shown. Press the tool in between the fuel pipe and tank connector to release the quick-fit tangs. While holding the tool firmly in, pull out the fuel pipe."

One more thing (sorry, i'm being greedy LOL)

Below in the photos attached, what is this plug suppose to fit into???





Cheers

 

The JD-203 "special tool" is simply a standard fuel line disconnect tool, available at any auto parts store, or online for around $10.00. And yes, you do need them to disconnect the fuel lines from the front of the fuel tank........and the fuel line connections are VERY DIFFICULT to get to! It is imperative that you do not damage these fuel line fittings as they are no longer available. And DO NOT attempt to remove the fuel tank before disconnecting the fuel lines as you will damage them.







I'm not sure what purpose that plug serves, but I have the same disconnected plug on my 2001 VDP, and I suspect everyone else does. Maybe a more informed forum member knows its mysterious intended function........but right now I wouldn't worry about it.

 

REVISION:
There are actually 2 connectors laying loose in the trunk:
One is a shipping connector, used during transport of the car from the factory to disconnect the battery if not used.
The other one in your pic is power (switched / continuous / earth) for the towbar (I think).
Both are not used in normal circumstances.

Congrats on the barn find, I always wonder why that never happens to me .

You will have a lot of work to do, but first focusing on the most important issues seem to be right.
I also firstly should check the underbody; seen quite some cars here parked up in the wet stuff for years, some had their whole bottom rusted out once you started poking around.
Hope that's not the case for you..
And feel free to ask, I have the almost same year car.

 

Next time I'm at the car's location, I'll post some photos of the underneath for all your enjoyment and suggestions!

 

I know that you're busy with the fuel system at the moment but do consider the braking system. You can easily replace the brake fluid in the reservoir by emptying it with a turkey baster and then top up with new fluid. Brake fluid absorbs a lot of water and it looks like the car was subject to a very moist environment. The good thing about using the baster is that you can't remove enough fluid to introduce any air into the system. Now when you start using the brakes it will circulate clean fluid throughout the system.

 

Unfortunately the brakes are in quite a bad state and will require a complete overhaul! Looking at new brake lines, calipers, discs, etc.

 

Love this!! What a cool project to jump into!

As someone who has resurrected a few cars of varying states, I would like to second everything that has been said!!

Do you know the reason the car was parked? Did you check the oil and coolant, check for mixing ?
Please, change ALL the fluids you can before starting the car! Old chunky oil going through the engine leaving crustyness on the bearings is the last thing you need!

Also, as you probably already know, expect the unexpected. You may get through the basics, new fluids, new calipers, new fuel pump and filter, new tires, and have a great running car. Or you may find a few surprises. In the end it will be rewarding!! Patience is a virtue and good is the enemy of perfection! Dont get in a hurry, walk away if you have to and come back tomorrow! I know a few times I've broken a part or two out of fatigue induced ignorance!

If you do not know the reason that the car was parked, expect to find it when you get the fuel system overhauled. You may get lucky, the fuel pump may be the reason it was parked. But it seems to be rare that someone parks a car for no reason.

Its a great sign that the car ran when you sprayed in the starter fluid, in theory this could mean that the ignition system, injectors, computers, etc are working correctly all that needs to be fixed is the fuel system (to run the engine).

Looking forward to the progress!