XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

Dash light go off & headlights blowwhen i rev the engine

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  #21  
Old 07-15-2019 | 11:07 PM
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With M. Stojanovic's source for a brick store vendor I would go with that

https://store.alternatorparts.com/in...regulator.aspx

Notice the part # IN9218

on swapping out mine I found the screw fused to the brush assembly found on their website so ordered one for installation and a replacement screw from the hardware store

https://store.alternatorparts.com/ni...-assembly.aspx
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 07-15-2019 at 11:13 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-15-2019 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
With M. Stojanovic's source for a brick store vendor I would go with that

https://store.alternatorparts.com/in...regulator.aspx

Notice the part # IN9218

on swapping out mine I found the screw fused to the brush assembly found on their website so ordered one for installation and a replacement screw from the hardware store

https://store.alternatorparts.com/ni...-assembly.aspx
I might do that on a spare alternator, but to have a reliable unit for a dependable vehicle for my family, I would lean towards getting the entire alternator/regulator unit new with the one-year warranty, since they only go for around $200.

I think of it as insurance to protect the other expensive stuff in my car's electrical system, as well as insuring my safely getting home at night.
 
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  #23  
Old 07-16-2019 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by M. Stojanovic
If the headlight bulbs blew so quickly, you had a serious over-voltage coming from the alternator. This can only be due to a bad voltage regulator not controlling the voltage, i.e. having a short inside it sending full current to the alternator's exciter coil. In this case, the alternator voltage can go up to as high as 20-30 Volts. Do not go for the cheapest Ebay (fake?) regulators but get one from a reputable supplier. I get Denso alternator parts here: https://store.alternatorparts.com/in...regulator.aspx

As for the engine ECU and other modules, hopefully they are not damaged as they usually have in-built over-voltage protection.
Thats what confuses me, the filaments got burned, I tried to put an OBD reader on the car and it goes through 4 check boxes and on the 5th one it gets stuck and I get some can't communicate message. So I hope it didnt fry the ECM or something like that.
 
  #24  
Old 07-16-2019 | 01:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Sleazy
Thats what confuses me, the filaments got burned, I tried to put an OBD reader on the car and it goes through 4 check boxes and on the 5th one it gets stuck and I get some can't communicate message. So I hope it didnt fry the ECM or something like that.
If you could still start the engine after the bulbs burnouts, at least the engine ECU is fine. Don't try to start the engine again with the faulty alternator still in. You can test everything with all wires disconnected from the alternator, i.e. run on the battery for a while (after you have charged it, if not full).
 
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  #25  
Old 07-16-2019 | 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
Notice the part # IN9218...
They also have IN9218HD (heavy Duty) but they don't state what the difference is.

https://store.alternatorparts.com/in...regulator.aspx
 
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  #26  
Old 07-16-2019 | 06:03 AM
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There is a difference in how fast the regulator responds like with heavy beats from your stereo system and not necessarily with change in RPM

In the X300 case a IN221 is the stranded response and the IN435 is the fast response equipped on the car from factory

The HD may be a 120 amp vs. a 90 amp

120 is required on the X300 , I believe it is required on the X308
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 07-16-2019 at 06:51 AM.
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  #27  
Old 07-16-2019 | 04:19 PM
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Update:

I took the alternator out of the vehicle and brought it to the rebuilders. They bench tested it, at idle speed they were getting 17 volts when they cranked up the rpm's they were spiking at 29 volts, so it does appear that I found the issue, I hope it didnt blow anything besides my headlamps
 
  #28  
Old 07-16-2019 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Sleazy
Update:

I took the alternator out of the vehicle and brought it to the rebuilders. They bench tested it, at idle speed they were getting 17 volts when they cranked up the rpm's they were spiking at 29 volts, so it does appear that I found the issue, I hope it didnt blow anything besides my headlamps
Of course it looks like you're going to have to keep your eye on things that might want to fail prematurely from the over-voltage, starting with your car's battery.

Originally Posted by Sleazy
99 Jaguar Vanden Plas

Car starts fine and seems to be running fine when I rev the motor at all the dash lights go black and my headlights blow out and become burned out light bulbs. what could be causing this ?
Meantime, the fact that you said your dash lights went black sounds like your car has an over-voltage protector, also known as a high power protection module, that that protects your more delicate and expensive/critical lower-voltage items.

You might check and see.
 

Last edited by 67ECoupe; 07-16-2019 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Additional Information
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  #29  
Old 07-16-2019 | 04:57 PM
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Also, here is another "brick & mortar" parts source for your car:

https://www.partsgeek.com/models/van...as/jaguar.html

They are in New Jersey and have a toll-free number.
 
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  #30  
Old 07-16-2019 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 67ECoupe
Of course it looks like you're going to have to keep your eye on things that might want to fail prematurely from the over-voltage, starting with your car's battery.



Meantime, the fact that you said your dash lights went black sounds like your car has an over-voltage protector, also known as a high power protection module, that that protects your more delicate and expensive/critical lower-voltage items.

You might check and see.
The one thing that concerns me is the OBD reader is unable to communicate
 
  #31  
Old 07-16-2019 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Sleazy
The one thing that concerns me is the OBD reader is unable to communicate
Dang!

I would look for a blown fuse and hope for the best.
 
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  #32  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:00 PM
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There is a fuse that powers the OBD 2 port

Once someone found the pins in the port bent

See page 143 for a 2001 :

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj2001.pdf

# 4 / 5 amp LH heelboard fuse box

# 10 / 5 amp LH heelboard fuse box

Looking up fuse
 

Last edited by Lady Penelope; 07-16-2019 at 10:21 PM.
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  #33  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Lady Penelope
There is a fuse that powers the OBD 2 port

Once someone found the pins in the port bent

See page 143 for a 2001 :

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj2001.pdf

# 4 / 5 amp LH heelboard fuse box

# 10 / 5 amp LH heelboard fuse box

Looking up fuse
There is power at the OBD plug, as the reader plugs in powers on and goes through 4 check boxes and hangs on the 5th one, then displays a message can not communicate
 
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  #34  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Sleazy
There is power at the OBD plug, as the reader plugs in powers on and goes through 4 check boxes and hangs on the 5th one, then displays a message can not communicate
Do you think it could be the reader?
 
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  #35  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 67ECoupe
Do you think it could be the reader?
I tested the reader on a different vehicle, my son's Ford, and it communicated without any issue
 
  #36  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:41 PM
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Maybe a pin in the port is messed up?
 
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  #37  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 67ECoupe
Maybe a pin in the port is messed up?
I guess that is a possibility, I was thinking maybe with the high voltage that the voltage protection was affecting the operation if the electronics and shutting them down or whatever and that was causing the no communication problem. I was hoping anyways. I was planning on checking it after i get the alternator back in there and if it doesnt read again to take it to the auto zone down the road and see if they can get their code reader to communicate. Mostly I am hoping it works once the voltage is correct again.
 
  #38  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Sleazy
I guess that is a possibility, I was thinking maybe with the high voltage that the voltage protection was affecting the operation if the electronics and shutting them down or whatever and that was causing the no communication problem. I was hoping anyways. I was planning on checking it after i get the alternator back in there and if it doesnt read again to take it to the auto zone down the road and see if they can get their code reader to communicate. Mostly I am hoping it works once the voltage is correct again.
Good luck, let us know how it goes!
 
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  #39  
Old 07-16-2019 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 67ECoupe
Good luck, let us know how it goes!
I get the alternator back Thursday afternoon so I will be updating shortly after that
 
  #40  
Old 07-17-2019 | 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Sleazy
I was thinking maybe with the high voltage that the voltage protection was affecting the operation if the electronics and shutting them down or whatever and that was causing the no communication problem. I was planning on checking it after i get the alternator back in there...
You can check it without the alternator. Just connect the battery (make sure that the disconnected main cable to the alternator is not touching the ground) and switch the ignition "on" (do not crank). You can watch the main system check on the instrument panel and see if any fault is displayed. Then try the OBD scanner.
 


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