a few weeks ago i posted a no rear lights thread.....i received some good feedback and i thought i solved the problem by changing a few 5 amp fuses (luggage compartment).I closed out the post just the other day. last night i get in the car turn the lights on and no rear lights....i thought i fixed it.....now i am really dazed and confused.

i than noticed there were no cabin lights on either (console buttons out as well as overhead courtesy lights and lights on driver door illuminating buttons for window and seat adjustment.yet front lights high and low working.

my next step in attempting a diagnosis was checking all interior lights......including my directional s.....i found both directional s lit up and worked, however, the right directional (and clicks sounding when you move the light stalk on the column) blinked much slower than when i performed the same operation to make the left directional work.

the left clicked much faster....now i don't know which is the correct click/speed but i assume they should operate the same.i should add none of this makes a difference as both directional s actually work as do the brake lights.

but here is what i ultimately found 10 minutes later....when i move the directional back to its non-functional position....in the middle....and tap the stalk ever so gently all the lights come back on....when i say all i mean rear night driving lights as well as front and back side lights as well as the cabin/console lights . the lights stay on with no problem.....and only go out when i attempt to engage the directional s-right or left.

thoughts/suggestions?....sounds like a classic short problem but because of the way the directional s are clicking differently i feel problem is in connection(s) between light stalk and steering column.

ps....what i have described above also but intermittently...yields a "check rear lights" message.

 

Bad turn switch or wire broke/ loose at switch. I ran into similar situation. My sidemarker and dash lights would go out. If I moved turn lever they would come back on or flicker.

 

i am inclined to agree and would say more likely a loose /broken wire going into column.....but if its the switch do you think i can replace(where can I pick one up?) or is this the job for my mechanic.....i think investigating loose wire gets you into the column anyway.........thanks so much....

 

I bought mine off ebay. Once I got it out i found wire broken at solder joint. Put replacement in anyway. They are quite pricey new.

 

thanks motorcars randy....what am i ordering /part number.....i hate getting into column on these cars .....if its to much of a hassle....i will let my mechanic handle....

 

With auto headlamps LNC6455AA
without LNC6455BA

 

thanks for the part number....but what is it called?....is it the directional switch?you have with headlights and without.......as i noted......front lights work....but you need to jiggle stalk after you turn than the rear lights go on as well as interior cabin/console-dash lights....

so i hear you saying i probably need the one without the front headlights....as these stay on regardless....

 

what it means is does you headlight switch have an auto position on the switch. If it does you have auto headlamps. most do.

It is called a turn signal or multi function switch.

 

Here is a JPEG file showing the parts with illustration and photo:



Sometimes a picture is better than 1000 words.

Jim Lombardi

 

randy..yes mine has auto stamped on what you have shown as #4.....do you remember what you paid for it?.....and thanks again....

 

I paid around $50.00 on Ebay for a whole assy that had turn and wiper switch, spiral cable and turn speaker.

 

i don't know where you are getting this part for 50 bucks.....i am looking on e-bay...and the switch with complete assembly going for more than 350 bucks.....do you have vendor/contact number?

 

You have a broken wire in the multi-function switch. Drop the wheel to lowest position and extend it; leave key in ignition so steering wheel does not lock. Need to pull the neg at battery, DO NOT LOCK TRUNK, wait 30 minutes, turn the wheel 90 degrees to remove Torx 27 at rear of steering wheel cover, turn back 180 to get the other Torx; remove the cover and airbag, unlatch connectors for horn and bag; remove steering wheel (15mikemike and long lever and assistant holding wheel still), remove bottom cowling; then top cowling (three hidden brass screws, which you can see with a mirror, just need to remove those on left side, top cowling will lift up and you can remove the switch (two 20 Torx); you will then see which wire is broken from its post. A mechanics swivel mirror is useful for seeing blind fittings.

Now the fun part: you have to resolder the very thin wire back on the post. You will soon realize you weren't issued three hands; a set of lock pliers or a C-clamp will hold the switch to some surface on the column steady enough to let you try and solder -- really, really tight, small, and very thin wires - too much heat in the wrong place and you might think about a new switch and a parking the hulk for a while. I got lucky, solder caught first chance and my broken wire was out in front, so I could clean up the joint. All fits back nicely. Pay special attention to aligning the wheel, there are scribe marks where the wheel and column splines should mate, on mine, some yahoo setting the alignment had a crooked wheel, so he pulled the wheel and set it straight, but off the scribe marks and I was not observant when I pulled the wheel -- pulled it again and moved it over one spline and the wheel is straight again.

A fun three hours. If I could have gotten a switch for $50 US, I would have gone that route -- no question. Held my breath while soldering: a disaster staring at me! And as an ex ham radio operator, I had years of experience soldering, but it was a long time ago with a steady hand and perfect eyesight.

 

Ebay Make an Offer feature is your friend .

 

Here is a couple of photos of the lower and upper steering column cowlings:



The comments are from another thread on the forum.

Jim Lombardi

 

jim and randy,....i will continue to look for a replacement switch.....as oppose to tackling as a loose/broken wire...which i think it really is....the pictures are useful....ultimately i will have my mechanic do....if i did would take me a month and the car would be un-driveable to boot.....and who knows what else i would screw-up....

my interim solution is what i call "the tooth pick fix"......i slid a toothpick between the directional stalk and i guess lower cowling opening. now when i turn the night driving lights on, the rear lights stay on as does the interior cabin instrument lights.

they will go out briefly however, once/if i engage the directionals (which continue to work).once the turn is made and the turn signal goes back to its middle/off position,....the rear lights immediately engage as does interiors. not a perfect solution but workable safety wise and allows me to drive at night....until i can find that e-bay bargain turn signal.....

 

Here you go jagjunky.
1998 99 00 2003 Jaguar XJ8 XJ8L Vanden Plas Clockspring Wiper Turn Signal Switch | eBay

 

I bought mine from this guy. great quality part plus i have extra parts that where included.

 

randy great find, great price......i don't know when i get on e-bay i can never find these deals....i just have to get a pay pal account....and make the purchase thanks again...

 

randy, i got the whole assembly/switch from e-bay- american auto parts 22.com......for about 75 bucks . it says used but judging from the buyer history....and your rx....i went for it.

will address once my" tooth pick" solution fails which can be one day or one year or more ...who knows.....anyway i will have the part needed to make the final repair......thanks again....