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My 98 xjr's battery drained the over cold winter in garage so i can't use the power trunk button to open the trunk. My key unlocks the door but will not work on the trunk. Is this only an issue when the battery's dead or is it just simply the manual lock on the trunk may be broke? The lock on the trunk does lock when closed, and unlocks when using the power button, just won't unlock using the key. Right now I don't know what to do beyond breaking something unintentionally; and I know if I ask the dealership they won't have any answer to malfunctions of a not-so-common occurrence, they never do.
I have moved your thread from the forum for the X350 to the forum for the X308, which is the Jaguar project code for your '98 XJR. Here you will find knowledgeable owners of similar cars.
Luke has already pointed you in a helpful direction, specifically this post and photo:
If you connect a battery charger positive cable to the large battery power stud on the firewall and the negative cable to a good ground/earth point, the electrical function of your car should return so you can use the power release button to open your trunk. If you don't have a battery charger, you can use another vehicle as the power source with jumper cables, or if you have a trickle charger/battery maintainer, you can just leave it connected overnight to see if your battery will recharge.
But don't attempt to start the engine from the connection in the engine compartment.
Hi RJ237,
On the XJ40, the firewall battery power stud is designated by Jaguar as a jump-start connection. Is that prohibited on the X308, and if so, do you know the reason?
Don, I might be wrong about that, but I know it should not be done on the XK8, and considering the electronics are essentially identical, I assumed it was true for the X308.
The engine stud is connected directly to the battery with a large gauge wire through the high current fuse. If Jaguar prohibits its use for jumping, I suspect it has to do with either the the possibility of the positive jumper clip jumping off and shorting to the car, or their concern that the starting circuit is then not protected by that fuse. Of course, the average WalMart jumper cable will flow less current that the fuse before burning in two...!
I have the '99 X308 Owner's Manual, Vehicle Care Manual, Electrical Guide and Workshop Manual. The only one that gives a jump starting procedure is the Vehicle Care Guide, and it only gives the direct-to-battery method - there's no mention of jump starting via the false bulkhead battery connection.
Its actually an easy fix. Spray some WD40 in rear key hole then insert key and work lock back and forth till
Lock opens. The lock gets stuck from non use. Apply a bit of pressure she will open for you.
Its actually an easy fix. Spray some WD40 in rear key hole then insert key and work lock back and forth till
Lock opens. The lock gets stuck from non use. Apply a bit of pressure she will open for you.
Vector
I regularly disconnect the battery for some repairs and the way I get the boot lid opened again is with the key lock actuator mechanism. There is a steel rod that is between the key lock and the lid latch.
I ALWAYS make sure it works before I disconnect the battery so I can get back in.
I have NO SYMPATHY for those who won't use the key every once in a while to ensure that it functions correctly. You 'use-it or lose-it'.
I also have no sympathy for those with a VALET key and then whine about not being able to open the lid.
Sorry, for anyone reading this thread for a solution, that won't work. The lock is electrically operated, not by mechanical linkage to the key slot and requires power to open the trunk.
Pardon me but you're wrong. It's mechanical, as Bob says.
this has happened to me when I have the battery disconnected for service and then forget, dropping the boot from muscle memory. Seems like when I turn the key to the right (clockwise) and hold, then push the release button, it works. Am I right?
Bob is correct about using the key locks and NEVER using the Valet key...
Try lubricating the lock first. The mechanical linkage has a plastic piece to
connect it and they do break. If the linkage is not connected and the electrical
lock won't work, then the next choice is to remove the license plate and us the
right side holes to insert a thin screw driver into and aim toward the latch. This
takes a couple of minutes of fumbling to pop the lock. A fiber optic flash light helps some to see inside. MAG Tool Inc. - Nite-Ize Flashlight Accessories
One of the "Wow! Why didn't I think of that!", moments for setting up a battery charger/maintainer external cable connection.
I have connected a battery maintainer/charger cable Positive (RED)
to the +12VDC input connector on the drivers side (US) fuse box behind the
headlamps and the Negative (Black) to the ground stud on the body
behind the drivers side headlamp.
I have the charger connector end poking out between the 2 headlamps.
I can then connect my charger/maintainer and supply voltage to the door locks
without having to unlock the doors or the trunk.
My battery went dead once and I was locked out from the car and the trunk.
Never again. I hope. . .
You do realize that there is a FUEL TANK between the seats and the boot??????
bob gauff
I actually had someone suggest I should cut a hole in the metal behind the
rear seat to get to my trunk latch 4 years ago. Fortunately I don't believe
everything I read on the internet. You are correct this time as always. The
fuel tank is in the way.
I suppose cutting the gas tank open with a torch would allow access to the
trunk........