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Being a jaguar enthousiast i decided to take the cat out yesterday (1998 xjr) Been using it every day since little less then a year until,...
Driving on the highway, at 80mph, a load bang, front right.
The engine cut out straight away all electronics gone, except lights, radio, doors windows (BMC seems to be working i guess) all other modules offline, no way to communicate with them through odb, nothing. car doesnt start, neither the parking relay. and an endless list of errors, gearbox, ABS, suspension, ....
I brought it back home on a truck, managed to get it out of parking, opening up the trim and using the screwdriver.
All a bit weird cause even without the car runing your able to get it out of parking.
Please help me on this one, before i start changing all the electronics :-)
You don't need to remove the trim to release the shifter from P. Just unscrew the cap with a star shaped recess on it and use the key to push down an internal lever.
Can you still crank the engine? If it cranks, does it make any loud knocking noises?
No it doesn't crank at all.
I was thinking maybe the starter motor blew up and/or the solenoid, wich then prohibits any current being distributed to the primary computer and fuses .... or this a long shot...
No it doesn't crank at all.
I was thinking maybe the starter motor blew up and/or the solenoid, wich then prohibits any current being distributed to the primary computer and fuses .... or this a long shot...
I thinking about the loud bang can you get a socket on the crank. To see if it is locked up?I remember spark plugs coming loose..?in the old days.
This common to fail bulkhead connector that’s on the right front deserves to be checked out for looseness, charring & overall broken contact. That might explain why you have some power but no crank. If you have to do any repairs here, disconnect the battery first.
This common to fail bulkhead connector that’s on the right front deserves to be checked out for looseness, charring & overall broken contact. That might explain why you have some power but no crank. If you have to do any repairs here, disconnect the battery first.
This happened to mine. Thankfully was discovered in the shop at the time. Definitely check that. The part from Jaguar was only like 65 bucks.
Hi, yes that crossed my mind but im still having the windows doors central locking, all working just the engine control manual does not come online and i cant even communicate with that through the foxwell or any other odb.
checking the fuses in the engine bay, told me they only get power if the relay is activated. so i guess after that the engine starts.
i just hope its the start motor that blew up, but why and how ...
You can swap relays to get them to click confirming you get the correct command from the ignition switch
not all fuses and their subsystems in the fuse boxes rely on these relays to pass power through and are hot at all times with a direct connection to the battery
If a relay does click it can still be bad in the power contacts inside being burnt not allowing proper current to run your devices
An example would be the starter circuit
In order to get the starter solenoid relay to click closed.........
# 3 / 25 amp fuse engine " management " fuse box - this fuse is hot at all times and no connection relay
# 5 / 10 amp engine " compartment " fuse box - this fuse is hot at all times
Editing , my wifi keeps dying
The EMS relay on page 31 ............
The EMS control relay is powered at all times as well as the contol power to it's pulling control coil
The control coil must get a commanding ground by the ( purple / pink ) wire on page 39 labeled with a flag as EMS control Relay on the left side of the print
Therefore the Engine Control Module must be powered
This ECM power comes from................
# 10 / 5 amp engine " management " fuse box - this relies on the EMS control relay to close
and # 5 / 10 amp engine " compartment " fuse box - this relies on the ignition positive relay to close in the fuse box
Correct , this ignition positive relay does get a command ground from the ignition key
This would be pin 3 to 5 on the switch side of the connector
pin 5 on the car side of the connector is a car frame ground that needs to be checked and I had corrosion on mine
The car side of the connector lifts straight up for easier working
Thank, im really discovering a lot of the cat this way
Checking the fuse box, holding a ground to the engine and possitive to these fuses, the ones in black dont get12V (fuses are ok of course)
They should be under constant 12V with the key on ?
Thanks ever so much !!!!!!!!!!!!!
It turned out to be the inertia switch. €€€ down the drain for the towing truck but very happy for all your help.
The cat purrs again and ... im getting to know her better and better.