Differential Right Rear Bearing and Seal Replacement
#1
Differential Right Rear Bearing and Seal Replacement
Does anyone have experience with replacing the Right Rear output Bearing and Seal on the Differential? On my 1999 XJR it howls very loud all of a sudden, and now leaks. I've checked/filled the oil, and it was down only a few tablespoons.
I read somewhere that there is a special tool for this job. Can someone who knows let me know what parts and tools I will need for this? Is it something I can do myself? I'm mechanically and technically inclined, but my health will prevent me from doing some things. Financially, I am needing to try this if possible. My illness is taking a toll on all aspects of my life lately.
I already got a quote from a local Jaguar Shop for $440. Am I silly for wanting to attempt this myself instead?
Thank you for any input you may have.
I read somewhere that there is a special tool for this job. Can someone who knows let me know what parts and tools I will need for this? Is it something I can do myself? I'm mechanically and technically inclined, but my health will prevent me from doing some things. Financially, I am needing to try this if possible. My illness is taking a toll on all aspects of my life lately.
I already got a quote from a local Jaguar Shop for $440. Am I silly for wanting to attempt this myself instead?
Thank you for any input you may have.
#2
#3
Do you know the parts/tools you need, or are you finding that out as you go?
Yes, sometimes my wife has issues with my girlfriend. Although she loves to ride in it almost as much as I do.
#4
Thanks!
#5
#7
How'd you make out SuperSport? My front seal shows signs of past leakage, and I am buying time by keeping it topped off, although it doesn't appear to be actively leaking now. I can certainly understand the dealer cost verses doing it yourself. And no I'm not independently wealthy, but I would've voted for the $440 dollars with possible warranty, over chasing down special tools and related headaches. I do hope it went well for you.
Ralph
Ralph
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#8
How'd you make out SuperSport? My front seal shows signs of past leakage, and I am buying time by keeping it topped off, although it doesn't appear to be actively leaking now. I can certainly understand the dealer cost verses doing it yourself. And no I'm not independently wealthy, but I would've voted for the $440 dollars with possible warranty, over chasing down special tools and related headaches. I do hope it went well for you.
Ralph
Ralph
I'm usually handy enough to do this type of job myself, but since getting sick, I'm finding more and more that I cannot do myself. I will attempt this due to finances, but if need be physically, I will take them up on it.
#9
Ok, here is the deal. Getting to the parts is Simple! You don't have to lower the diff or anything.
Simply Jack up the car, Safety Block, and let the wheels hang.
Remove Wheel
Mark Axle positions and Large Toothed Housing position (Scribe for repositioning)
Unbolt Axle, 4 bolts, and let it down easily (used 11/16" deep socket)
I turned the wheel, then set the e-brake for each bolt. Position at top.
Prop Hub/BrakeDisc on a block so it does not hang on brake line/ABS wire
Remove bolt that holds thin lock plate in place 1 bolt (used 1/2" socket)
Unscrew Large toothed housing from Diff Counter Clockwise (used LARGE Channel Locks, not recommended)
Parts come right out! 5 bolts, Easy.
Now, what I don't know, is what is howling. Using just my hands, I cannot find any play anywhere. The bearing inside the Diff looks fine, but of course, I may not be seeing the wear. There is no sign of wear or burning anywhere. The bearing on the short shaft that comes out seems fine, but again, using my bare hands to try to find play.
The leak is likely from the O-Ring around the short shaft. That's where the oil appears to be coming out. That will be an easy fix. Also, there is a Spring Clip that holds the short shaft in the Large Toothed Housing.
I even tried to put it all back together, and screwed the toothed housing in just a little tighter to see if it was just loose, but it's still howling on test drive.
Any suggestions from someone who's done this? How to remove the timkin bearing inside the diff, special tool?. Can I replace just the bearing/seal on the short shaft, or is it sold all one piece? Special tool to remove this?
PS: Removal really is easy. I am not well, and it only took me an hour to get it out in 109 degree weather. I would imagine if I were feeling well, it would only be about 1 hour out & back in. Someone good at this stuff, maybe 15 mins each, in/out.
Thank you again for any input...
Simply Jack up the car, Safety Block, and let the wheels hang.
Remove Wheel
Mark Axle positions and Large Toothed Housing position (Scribe for repositioning)
Unbolt Axle, 4 bolts, and let it down easily (used 11/16" deep socket)
I turned the wheel, then set the e-brake for each bolt. Position at top.
Prop Hub/BrakeDisc on a block so it does not hang on brake line/ABS wire
Remove bolt that holds thin lock plate in place 1 bolt (used 1/2" socket)
Unscrew Large toothed housing from Diff Counter Clockwise (used LARGE Channel Locks, not recommended)
Parts come right out! 5 bolts, Easy.
Now, what I don't know, is what is howling. Using just my hands, I cannot find any play anywhere. The bearing inside the Diff looks fine, but of course, I may not be seeing the wear. There is no sign of wear or burning anywhere. The bearing on the short shaft that comes out seems fine, but again, using my bare hands to try to find play.
The leak is likely from the O-Ring around the short shaft. That's where the oil appears to be coming out. That will be an easy fix. Also, there is a Spring Clip that holds the short shaft in the Large Toothed Housing.
I even tried to put it all back together, and screwed the toothed housing in just a little tighter to see if it was just loose, but it's still howling on test drive.
Any suggestions from someone who's done this? How to remove the timkin bearing inside the diff, special tool?. Can I replace just the bearing/seal on the short shaft, or is it sold all one piece? Special tool to remove this?
PS: Removal really is easy. I am not well, and it only took me an hour to get it out in 109 degree weather. I would imagine if I were feeling well, it would only be about 1 hour out & back in. Someone good at this stuff, maybe 15 mins each, in/out.
Thank you again for any input...
Last edited by SuperSport; 08-26-2010 at 05:05 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by SuperSport:
Ipc838 (04-01-2013),
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