I just finished changing my left side tensioner I did the known steps turned the crankshaft clock wise till the load is gone on the exhaust springs the zip ties the chain etc etc BUT I didn't follow the torque specs I figured out the torque wrench that I have is 13.3 nm as lowest setting then I was done of opening this and that I opened the camshaft bolts then when I reinstalled the camshaft I just tight the bolts by hand only it was so tight when I opened it so I tightened as it was I think the wrench was short so I think I couldn't put a lot of torque

so after first start I heard loud rattle for 1 or 2 second then the ratlle is gone and worked fine for about 10 minutes I reved the engine to 5 k during the 10 minutes everything was fine then j turned off the engine for 10 minutes I start again then the engine was shaking and the gas pedal didn't respond then the engine shut down I start it again and pushed the pedal very hard engine reved up to 5 k then pulled my foot engine back to 600-800 rpm but shaking. same that thing happened when I had vacuum leak from valve cover breather.

now should I expect any big problem or its just vacuum leak or other things?

2002 xj8

 

First question is, why only one side? ...and 2nd, is your '02 an early model, mid '02 and after had gen 3 metal tensioners...or did it fail?
Your going to have to review what steps you took to be sure you put everything back on properly. We are human, we do make mistakes. In the meantime, don't go revving up to 5k on a fresh repair without a load on it. You should of been content to let it idle for a bit and just put it in gear and listen then shut it down and check for leaks. But, too late for that now. If it were me, I'd be taking the cam cover off to try to find the source of that noise before any more possible damage, depending on what I found on my initial inspection. If you do take the cam cover off, look for marks, possibly from the timing chains. If you find something missing or not right, pull the oil pan and check for the parts there.

Review your connections and when you start it again, use an engine stethoscope to listen around on the timing and cam covers.

 

did only 1 side because of back pain couldn't continue the job.

it's 2002 early model the tensioner made by Sachs orange plastic cracked in the middle .

after removing zip ties and the released the tensioner and all bolts tight I checked everything before installing the valve cover then I installed the valve cover then tighned it's bolts then installed the spark plugs then it's cover and the breather hose .

I saw tiny orange plastic and pulled it it was tiny broken plastic piece . the noise was the first 2 seconds ago only now should I take the cam cover again or search for vacuum leaks?

also since the engine start and no major problems is that mean I succeeded or I must do the entire job again with torque wrench?

 

Did you replace the tensioners too?
also, did you crank the engine to fill the hydraulics in the tensioners without the plugs in?
I am very concerned about finding plastic bits, did you align the cam lobes(flats) was the crank in the correct position
I'm no expert except for putting my earlier model back together first start a fire up
so for me I would start again.

 

Not torquing down everything to the correct torque is a major no no in my book.

IF nothing is damaged I would suggest you go back in anyway and torque everything down properly.

 

As I understand, you completely removed the camshaft and then re-installed it. If this is correct, the following are the questions:

1. Did you install the camshaft caps in the correct orientation and sequence, according to the numbers stamped on the caps?

2. Did you engage the camshaft sprocket into the chain in the same position as before?

In any case, you need to verify the correct timing of the camshaft. Remove both cam covers, rotate the crankshaft clockwise using a socket on the crank pulley bolt (to make the crank rotation easier, remove all spark plugs). Stop the crank rotation when the flats of both camshafts on the bank that you did not touch are parallel with each other and parallel to the head surface on which the cam cover gasket seats. Then see what the position of the flats of the two camshafts on the bank where you did the work is (they should also be parallel in the same way in relation to their cylinder head as on the other bank. If not, one of your camshaft has skipped the correct position and you may have bent valves in that head.

 

point 1 yes I did.

point 2 yes I did.

both camshaft flat were the exact same and I didn't rotate the exhaust camshaft at all it was tied .

I forgot to mention I broked 1 cam cover bolt the one that need deep 10 mm socket and broked expansion hose too

 

hi dutchy if someone know what's the feeling while having sick jaguar it would be you .

I just changed the left side secondary tensioner .

didn't crank without plugs.

I'm concerned too because of the plastic broken pieces.

the 2 camshaft flat were exact the same .

I don't think crank must be in specific position during this job the only thing that I did turning the crank shaft untill all exhaust valve springs were free then opened the cam caps starting from middle 3-4-2-5-1
installed the same process with careful but I had bad lower back pain and I was done so torque it by hand .

I'm just afraid if I did torque it more than 11nm I have strong hands thanks God . so not sure if I can do 11nm with short wrench.

 

Still, I suggest you check the cam timing again. The engine shaking suggests that something has gone wrong, possibly the cam timing went out for some reason. If you prefer another easier/quicker initial check, do the compression test first.

 

i will open both camcovers later today or tomorrow and will check camshafts if they still flat as it was before I will take pictures too.

the obd reader detected misfire in cylinder 2-6-4 I also have bad maf.

 

I think when you started it without first turning it over to get oil pressure the chain on that side jumped a tooth. The proper procedure is to remove the injector solenoid and spin the engine with the starter until the oil light goes out.

I would also suggest that when you loosen cam caps, valve coves, etc. you start from the outside and work toward the middle. Then tighten from the middle to the outside.

 

they lined up I can't see it jumped a teeth. I noticed the tensioner plastic head was turned little bit I thought it could be because of the bolts but I turned it right and left it was very easy to turn it little bit right and left kind of low quality tensioner?

I found thin steel like cable also on next to caps number 1

what should I do now ?

thanks.

 

Compression check

 

I have to re torque the caps before the test

 

dont know where the metal piece came from I am not educated enough about where it could come from
the flats look ok did you do the flat steel across them?
Rj and MS and others will be able to help with timing marks as they did for me.
I hope for your sake there is not a bent valve stem.
The tensioners look the same as the ones I put in and yes they do move a little bit left and right
keep looking

 

honestly no didn't tried flat steel across them but will do it today for double checking but as I can see there was no difference between them.

I thought that's kind of low quality tensioner

 

Did you maybe drop the tensioner release pin? (the one that you pulled out of the new tensioner after its installation)

 

no I have that pin . it came from the cam cover itself it's silver I think I tightened everything around 16nm or more I tried 13.6nm on the cam caps just a click it was low!

I don't believe I have bend valves. now I'm thinking to re torque the caps and do the right side tensioner and I'm done ?

 

Timing looks right, from your photos. You might want to assure yourself that you have your ignition cables mounted correctly on the spark plug for 6, second back from front on left side. Misfire on 2 and 4, may be bad timing on right side or more likely, bad MAF sensor. When you do the right side, be sure you have turned the motor so the tension is off as many cams as possible (after you have tested for timing -- straightedge across the flats); then zip tie. For the MAF, you need to check for vacuum leaks and be sure you have no bent pins when the MAF is connected to the wiring.

Go back and look at the wiring for # 6, no crimps?

 

I will do the right side and check the cables .

I will do compression test once I'm done but should can i do it while the car is cold ?

can I check bend valves by endoscope?