DIY guide: Fixing a broken "Instrumount" (rubber stud), P/N: EAC8130
#1
DIY guide: Fixing a broken "Instrumount" (rubber stud), P/N: EAC8130
I am starting with a picture, so you know, what this is about. The official name of this part is Instrumount, the P/N is EAC8130, and it is the X308 rubber stud under the box, which contains the engine-air-filter. And it is broken...
After it is broken into two, it can be screwed off with a socket - the same is true for the other part stuck in the car-body (it is screwed there into a weld-nut, thus no worries about the nut falling off when you remove the stud-bit.)
Then you get yourself somewhere a rubber block and cut out of the full the right size rubber cylinder. I used an angle grinder with sanding disc. I am not responsible for any damage or injury. You clean up the two leftover metal parts (also with the angle grinder) and "glue" all 3 parts together with black silicone. Let it dry over night. And you have an "all new" part...
Mounted back onto the car-body. Yes, it is solid! I already mounted the air-box onto it.
And here I got a link for you - because else you would not believe it: If you choose to do so, you can pay up to 50 British Pounds (ex. VAT) plus postage for this part (but you can also get it a lot cheaper on ebay - but still pay plenty of Pounds...). It is part 7 in the drawing behind that link:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...strumount.html
Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; 12-27-2022 at 06:44 AM.
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someguywithajag (01-05-2023)
#5
While I still do not know, which "electronic shop" Jim refers to, I checked out the Amazon hint, and found various rubber studs. The ones, which I saw, all has a rubber body, which was too short. They come with various threads, M4, M6, M8. So, without checking now, which one is right - let's say M6: I found a 4-pack for AU$12. I never order on Amazon, so I assume they also charge for postage on top? Thus, $1 a piece is an illusion, and getting the right size would still be a challenge.
I used a rubber block, which I had already. I reckon making that part myself probably took not as long, as it would take to source the right part from an "electronic shop", if possible at all in the right size...
Sure, if you manage to find one, go for it, if not, I showed, how you can DIY one...
Also, there is a good chance that the threads of those very cheap parts do not have proper corrosion-protection like the OE part. Thus, it is quiite likely that your Jag will start rusting there. While I had no problems removing the broken off OE stud with a hex-socket, I would not have an idea of how to remove that cheap stud in the future - a hex socket would not fit. And if that end of the thread, which goes thru the weldnut in the Jag-body rusts on the other end, it would be quite a bit of fun getting it out.
Al in all, using the cheap rubber stud is a bad idea, IF you find one at all in the right size/length...
I used a rubber block, which I had already. I reckon making that part myself probably took not as long, as it would take to source the right part from an "electronic shop", if possible at all in the right size...
Sure, if you manage to find one, go for it, if not, I showed, how you can DIY one...
Also, there is a good chance that the threads of those very cheap parts do not have proper corrosion-protection like the OE part. Thus, it is quiite likely that your Jag will start rusting there. While I had no problems removing the broken off OE stud with a hex-socket, I would not have an idea of how to remove that cheap stud in the future - a hex socket would not fit. And if that end of the thread, which goes thru the weldnut in the Jag-body rusts on the other end, it would be quite a bit of fun getting it out.
Al in all, using the cheap rubber stud is a bad idea, IF you find one at all in the right size/length...
Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; 12-30-2022 at 08:01 PM.
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earny (12-31-2022)
#7
I've used these in stainless on a slightly modified induction path.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124604216...Bk9SR-jMmLWtYQ
Thing is I'm all for originality - even if you don't see it, just like these parts, I took a petrol tank back out because I fitted the neoprene pad but not the rubber mat it all sits on. OCD? Quite possibly, but if your in kangaroo country this is exactly how you're brought up to solve things, some of the best Tech's I've met are either Aussie or Kiwi - kudos to Peter for improving an oe part!
Happy New Year!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124604216...Bk9SR-jMmLWtYQ
Thing is I'm all for originality - even if you don't see it, just like these parts, I took a petrol tank back out because I fitted the neoprene pad but not the rubber mat it all sits on. OCD? Quite possibly, but if your in kangaroo country this is exactly how you're brought up to solve things, some of the best Tech's I've met are either Aussie or Kiwi - kudos to Peter for improving an oe part!
Happy New Year!
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#8
OK, I also just found that rubber stud - under a different P/N (MNA6730AB) SEEMINGLY lot cheaper:
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/class...51/mount-p4317
However, that is 4 Pounds without postage, for 1 part, and they only sell you 4 or more, i.e. min. cost for parts 15.96 Pounds
and to Australia at least the min. postage cost from britishparts is 37.82 Pounds.
But as I wrote before: If you find the correct part somewhere cheaper, go for it. I just showed an alternative to buying new.
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/class...51/mount-p4317
However, that is 4 Pounds without postage, for 1 part, and they only sell you 4 or more, i.e. min. cost for parts 15.96 Pounds
and to Australia at least the min. postage cost from britishparts is 37.82 Pounds.
But as I wrote before: If you find the correct part somewhere cheaper, go for it. I just showed an alternative to buying new.
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