I have a 1998, XJ308 3.2 ltr. I have two problems I can't seem to fix. I have had some great help from people on this site, but I am stumped with these 2, forgive me if I should have listed my 2 problems separately?

1st: My son went to the boot of the car, and (as teenagers do) he slammed the boot lid, now I can't open it! Pressing the release button, you can here the electric mechanism operating, but the lid doesn't open, and when I press the lid shut again you can here the mechanism clicking shut. Using the key directly does the same, won't open but pressing down on the lid you can here the closing mechanism engage. Has anyone any ideas on how to release the boot lid in any other way, I believe my son slammed it that hard he may have moved the locking mechanism so the lid is shut too tight?

2nd: I have spent a long time renewing virtually every part of the front and rear suspension bushes, bearings, ball joints, etc. Before all this, there was a 'rumble' at around 45-55 mph (it felt like the prop shaft universal joint on my old Mk3 Cortina years ago when that went). There was a reference on the last MOT certificate, before I got the XJ, stating excessive play in the axle drive shaft joints, so I replaced them as well. Since putting the XJ back on the road it seems a lot better, but i'm not confident the rumble has gone completely. I didn't change the prop shaft flexi couplings when doing the work as they appeared to be fine, maybe that was a mistake? My question is, are the prop shafts, the centre bearings, or either flexi couplings known to be problematic? Have I missed something obvious? The car should drive smoothly with all the work that's been done, there are no suspension knocks or unusual noises, just a general feeling it's not as smooth as one would expect after all the work done. I am very fortunate to be local to a dedicated Jaguar breakers yard, so obtaining spare parts isn't an issue if required.

As always, any help would be greatly appreciated, I seem to have a really good example of this model, it just doesn't feel like it's rolling as it should!

 

My only thoughts are to try to have someone jiggling the absolute heck out of the trunk, alternating between pushing down, and such while trying to pop the trunk, which no doubt you've already tried. After that though, I got nuttin.

As for the rumble, have you tried rotating tires around to see if the sound follows? Long shot, but worth a try.

 

Does the KEY open the lid. There are no electrics involved with the key latch barrel, only linkage.

bob

 

Thanks for your reply. No, unfortunately the key doesn't work, although you can feel the key 'click' as if trying the mechanical release but it will not open. I am unsure if there's any fail-safe/security device that may be faulty? Using the key manually, pressing the open button on the key fob, or pressing the button on the boot lid itself, all are trying to work but it still won't come open. I have noticed that after trying each of the above methods, when pressing back down on the boot lid, you can here what might be termed as the usual 'click' sound associated with the lid closing, so it is attempting to open?
It was working perfectly well previously, never failed to open and never had to 'slam' it to shut it, so I am now thinking that some device has failed or it is so tightly locked that forcing it is the only way. My last resort is to remove the number plate, carefully cut a section out of the centre with a grinder to gain access to the shut mechanism, and release it manually. Then hope my trusty local breakers have a replacement boot lid ... seems like drastic action I know, especially if I could just get it open once to fix the problem!

I hope someone reads this that has experienced similar situations, I can't be the first to have this problem ... but there again knowing my luck!!

 

To open the boot the key needs to be able to turn through 90 degrees - if it doesn't do that then squirt WD40 or similar into the lock and keep trying, possibly with the someone pressing down on the lid at the same time? There are several threads on the forum about how to open the boot when the mechanical mechanism via the key doesn't work, from memory you take the number plate off and then there should be a hole into which you can insert a tnin long screwdriver to mechanically trip the latch. It sounds as though slamming the lid may have dislodged the linkage.

 

Hi nigelmay, and many thanks for your reply. Exactly as I thought, the force of the slam has dislodged the catch and this is causing the latch not to release. Such useful information as to removing the number plate to find an access point, just shows that forums like this are absolutely priceless.

Now, if you have any ideas on the 'rumbling' problem, I will put you forward for the Forum Master of the Year Award lol?

 

Glad you have sorted the boot issue.

Unfortunately, the rumbling issue is beyond me, as it seems to be speed related it ought to be something in the drive train, either prop shaft or half shafts perhaps? I once had a rear diff whine that came and went, it turned out to be because the oil level hadn't been checked since the car was new because some gorilla had done the drain plug up to some ludicrous torque and no mechanic could subsequently open it, so they didn't bother. When it was finally opened, there was no oil in the diff at all.

Might be worth checking, if only to eliminate another possible source of the noise.

 

If your reference to the 'half-shafts' are the drive axles from diff to wheel then I don't think they are the problem with the rumbling as I fitted 4 new Universal Joints, the U'J's came with grease nipples so all fitted and well greased up?

Just an update on the boot lid problem: I remember over the last few days, before this problem raised its ugly head, that I was sat in the car waiting for someone and I did 'mess about' with the valet switch pressing it on and off a few times, could this have caused this nuisance with the boot lid locking up? I don't have a Valet Key, never even seen one of those?

 

When I said that I had a 'whine' from the diff, you could also describe it as a low frequency rumble, so it might be worth checking yours to see if there is the right amount of oil in it; maybe change it if it is all dirty and thick - can't do any harm and it might even cure the noise.

The valet key has a green head and will only open the car, not the boot or, I think, the glove box, so that when the car is being valet parked you can keep valuables locked away. Have a look at threads on the forum about the valet key, but if you don't have one I'm pretty certain that even if you play with the switch for it on the dashboard, if you have the normal black key it overrides the valet switch.

 

Thanks nigelmay, I have already sent my wife out to get the oil for the diff so I can do it over the weekend (I just hope she gets the right stuff!) because, as you say, it can't do any harm.

Valet Key/Boot opening problem scenario: I followed up on threads regarding opening the boot via a small hole in the boot lid behind the license plate. I also followed a link from one of the threads that describes what to do if a 'hole' isn't already present. There's even some pictures showing you where to measure and drill a 1/4" hole, then use a 5" electricians screwdriver to flip the locking mechanism, there was loads of comments saying how it worked well for people.

Yet again, I must praise this website, what an absolute mine of information is available from people all over the world who have tips, tricks, and fixes that keep these big cats on the road.
However, further reading of my recent dilemmas has led me listen to experts (such as yourself) and search more vigorously for answers, rather than asking questions that have already been answered many times. These cars were (hopefully) built to last for years, so it's pretty inevitable that someone has already witnessed the exact problem you might be experiencing. As a new thread has probably been answered already, it's not a 'new' thread at all, it's well documented. Learn the lesson I have recently, and search for an answer first!! Anyone have any ideas on advertising on the Forums, advising members that they should try the search option before anything else?

 

Well, the boot lid saga has been resolved, though, it cost me some time having to cut a 3" x 2" hole in the back of the boot lid, here's what happened....
I first tried the procedure pointed out by nigelmay in a thread on the Forum, ie, drilling a hole and poking away with a screwdriver, but it didn't work . It would have worked, if I hadn't found an 'unusual' problem after cutting my 3 x 2 piece out.
Those who have ever removed the trim strip/piece on the back of the boot lid (where the button is to open the lid) will no doubt recognize the 'cup nut' in the picture below...



One of these 'little devils' had come off the strip and lodged itself in the mechanism, preventing it from opening the boot, this is the reason neither the button or the manual key entry would work...



For those who have read the same article as I did on drilling a hole to free off the latch when all other attempts to open the boot fail, this is the part of the mechanism you're trying to get at...



(Just for information, the top linkage is from the electric button opener, the bottom one is from the manual key opener).

ANYWAY, back to the problem...

Using a strong magnet, I was able to dislodge the cup nut and get it out. After checking everything was now working, I welded the 3" x 2" hole up with a piece of metal I had lying around the workshop, ground it back flat, red oxide primed it, and painted it. As I managed to keep all 'damage' behind the number plate, there's no visible signs I was ever in there.

If you have followed the article I did, and don't have a hole already drilled in the boot lid, here's a few things you need to do...
1. After removing the number plate, drill a 10mm hole at a point 130mm up from the bottom lip of the boot lid, and 13mm left of centre (NOT 4" from the lip as the article suggests, and not a 1/4" hole).
2. Insert a decent screwdriver into the 13mm hole, move the handle of the screwdriver to the left (blade to the right) thereby moving the mechanism to the right.
Assuming there's no 'little devils' like I had, the boot will open.
3. After any necessary repairs, paint the bare edges of the hole and fit a rubber grommet (hence the 13mm hole), if you don't have a grommet cover the hole with duct tape.
4. Refit the number plate.

I would like to make special thanks to nigelmay for his help in telling me to look for a hole behind the number plate in the first place, I just hope that my experience, and the pictures, will help anyone else visualize the mechanism they're looking for if they have problems when trying to open a stuck/jammed boot lid.

Now, on with tackling the rumble problem..........