The dreaded limp home mode...again
#1
The dreaded limp home mode...again
I do realize that this has been addressed over and over, but unfortunately it is not one of those things that resolves in a straight forward manner, like "Oh, this is it, this one thing will take care of this; we're done". No, unfortunately nope.
For a while by now I have been living with the infamous XJR engine problems that throw the system into “limp home” mode out of the clear sky. This has repeated several times during the last year, or so. It may go fine for a week or two and then, when I’m beginning to trust it (and drive farther away…) it again fails and in spite of all the work and expense it has generated. So, the car just sits there while the others cars get the drive (the XJS and the Z3). I basically can no longer trust it for anything longer than just a few miles, otherwise I’m facing the dreaded limp home mode for miles.
· ASCnot available
· Tracknot available
· Failsafe engine mode
... and more
Below is a summary of what has been done in regards to this problem:
ITEM ITEM STATUS
· ABSModule ………………………………….Rebuilt by British Eurotech
· Throttlebody Assembly …………………….Replaced by British Eurotech
· EngineECU (Used) .…………………….….Replaced by British Eurotech
· Brake switch ………………………..………Replaced by British Eurotech
· Wheelspeed sensor(s) …………………….Cleaned and inspected all four sensors by owner, in spring of 2014
· Borderline low battery charge ……………..Fully aware of this issue, the owner keeps the battery fully charged 24/7
Also, I’m sure that the shop is aware of all the potentially suspect power wiring connections and, after all this work, the shop must’ve included some serious inspection.
The hard reality is that, by now, this carries a nasty cost in receipts, yet I still cannot trust the car. The question is, looking at above list of what has already been spent on, what else is there to replace (i.e. spend money on), other than changing again what’s already been changed? I’m not looking forward to shelling out more of this kind of money. Jeez, just the other day I responded to one of those offers for “Extended Warranty on a used car”, but when I revealed that the car in question happened to be an XJR they said “we don’t cover XJR’s”...hmm, I wonder why.
So, it’s only obvious that the idea of getting rid of the car is growing in popularity yet, I otherwise love this car and totally wish that I could say “this problem is now a thing of the past”. Thing is, if I sold it, what am I going to tell the new owner, and, if I do say something, is the car going to sell at all? and if it does, will I get more than $3,000.00 for it? (Jeez, just the ICE alone in this car is worth much more than that, see gallery).
I realize that there’s plenty of Forum writing on this subject. I only want to know if anybody here may have a different angle on this overall picture, be it the failure issue itself, or the disposal of the car issue, etc.
Many thanks in advance.
Cheers,
For a while by now I have been living with the infamous XJR engine problems that throw the system into “limp home” mode out of the clear sky. This has repeated several times during the last year, or so. It may go fine for a week or two and then, when I’m beginning to trust it (and drive farther away…) it again fails and in spite of all the work and expense it has generated. So, the car just sits there while the others cars get the drive (the XJS and the Z3). I basically can no longer trust it for anything longer than just a few miles, otherwise I’m facing the dreaded limp home mode for miles.
· ASCnot available
· Tracknot available
· Failsafe engine mode
... and more
Below is a summary of what has been done in regards to this problem:
ITEM ITEM STATUS
· ABSModule ………………………………….Rebuilt by British Eurotech
· Throttlebody Assembly …………………….Replaced by British Eurotech
· EngineECU (Used) .…………………….….Replaced by British Eurotech
· Brake switch ………………………..………Replaced by British Eurotech
· Wheelspeed sensor(s) …………………….Cleaned and inspected all four sensors by owner, in spring of 2014
· Borderline low battery charge ……………..Fully aware of this issue, the owner keeps the battery fully charged 24/7
Also, I’m sure that the shop is aware of all the potentially suspect power wiring connections and, after all this work, the shop must’ve included some serious inspection.
The hard reality is that, by now, this carries a nasty cost in receipts, yet I still cannot trust the car. The question is, looking at above list of what has already been spent on, what else is there to replace (i.e. spend money on), other than changing again what’s already been changed? I’m not looking forward to shelling out more of this kind of money. Jeez, just the other day I responded to one of those offers for “Extended Warranty on a used car”, but when I revealed that the car in question happened to be an XJR they said “we don’t cover XJR’s”...hmm, I wonder why.
So, it’s only obvious that the idea of getting rid of the car is growing in popularity yet, I otherwise love this car and totally wish that I could say “this problem is now a thing of the past”. Thing is, if I sold it, what am I going to tell the new owner, and, if I do say something, is the car going to sell at all? and if it does, will I get more than $3,000.00 for it? (Jeez, just the ICE alone in this car is worth much more than that, see gallery).
I realize that there’s plenty of Forum writing on this subject. I only want to know if anybody here may have a different angle on this overall picture, be it the failure issue itself, or the disposal of the car issue, etc.
Many thanks in advance.
Cheers,
The following 3 users liked this post by Forcedair1:
#2
Every time I have ACS and TRAC not available the first thing I do is get a new battery. You need to solve the low battery problem, that causes all kinds of gremlins. Once you solve low battery clear the codes take it for a ride and if it acts up read the codes and lets move forward.
As to selling, sight unseen I'm in for $3,500.00 lol. And I'll fly in and drive it back to Omaha.
As to selling, sight unseen I'm in for $3,500.00 lol. And I'll fly in and drive it back to Omaha.
The following 3 users liked this post by avern1:
#3
#4
Use this diagnostic sheet to test the wiring to the wheel sensors.
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...heet%20XK8.pdf While the car is in fail safe mode check the resistance of the front wheel sensors at the ABS unit.
The cables connecting the front wheel sensors to the chassis wiring would be my 1st guess. The usually break right at the wheel sensor connector. On my car it was the front passenger side cable.
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...heet%20XK8.pdf While the car is in fail safe mode check the resistance of the front wheel sensors at the ABS unit.
The cables connecting the front wheel sensors to the chassis wiring would be my 1st guess. The usually break right at the wheel sensor connector. On my car it was the front passenger side cable.
The following 7 users liked this post by rocklandjag:
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and 2 others liked this post.
#6
Every time I have ACS and TRAC not available the first thing I do is get a new battery. You need to solve the low battery problem, that causes all kinds of gremlins. Once you solve low battery clear the codes take it for a ride and if it acts up read the codes and lets move forward.
As to selling, sight unseen I'm in for $3,500.00 lol. And I'll fly in and drive it back to Omaha.
As to selling, sight unseen I'm in for $3,500.00 lol. And I'll fly in and drive it back to Omaha.
In addition, I have gathered a few related devices to stay ahead of the (electrical) game. I keep a digital DC voltmeter in the cigar lighter receptacle 24/7 which I can assess based on my own experience with battery idle voltage and/or alternator charge voltage, etc. I do not let the gauge reach 12 volts, let alone below that and if it does reach 12v or below it's re-charging time. I also have gathered a bunch of the latest charger/maintainer equipment to help me with the other cars, as well (clearly, I'm not driving a lot).
The codes that I remember were C1095 and P1632 and the work that the shop performed were based on those codes, including the rebuilding of the ABS unit. I still need to find where I wrote down the latest codes that I gathered with my OBDII reader.
It's like I said in the opening post that, unfortunately, this XJR problem is not one of those things that can be resolved in one straight forward manner, like for instance, the timing chain tensioner, where you either do the job yourself, or pay to get it done and, even if you pay dearly to get it done, it's done and your problem is gone forever. I have spent over $3,000.00 on this problem, yet my wife won't even take the XJR to the grocery store a few blocks from home.
Not too long ago, your $3,500.00 offer would have sounded like a funny line, but after all this gloomy picture it may be a reasonable one, after all. You see, if somebody came and told me "Reinaldo, for $1,500 I'll fix the problem for you and with a generous warranty" I would take the offer.
I just need to trace some lines here and I'll be making some decisions, including your offer. Thank you.
Cheers,
The following users liked this post:
Lucielle (10-07-2022)
#7
Cheers,
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#8
Use this diagnostic sheet to test the wiring to the wheel sensors.
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...heet%20XK8.pdf While the car is in fail safe mode check the resistance of the front wheel sensors at the ABS unit.
The cables connecting the front wheel sensors to the chassis wiring would be my 1st guess. The usually break right at the wheel sensor connector. On my car it was the front passenger side cable.
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...heet%20XK8.pdf While the car is in fail safe mode check the resistance of the front wheel sensors at the ABS unit.
The cables connecting the front wheel sensors to the chassis wiring would be my 1st guess. The usually break right at the wheel sensor connector. On my car it was the front passenger side cable.
Cheers,
#9
#10
i went over a rough bump and my xj8 started going into limp home mode ever since after about two minutes of driving so in my mind something was jarred loose or broke and that's causing it and its probably the wheel sensors/wires. so far I've cleaned the MAF sensor to no avail. i didn;t see a MAF sensor clean or replacement on your initial list of things you've done, that's why I'm mentioning it.
The following users liked this post:
Lucielle (10-22-2021)
#11
i went over a rough bump and my xj8 started going into limp home mode ever since after about two minutes of driving so in my mind something was jarred loose or broke and that's causing it and its probably the wheel sensors/wires. so far I've cleaned the MAF sensor to no avail. i didn;t see a MAF sensor clean or replacement on your initial list of things you've done, that's why I'm mentioning it.
In fact, if I remember well, I think that was the only time that work related to erratic engine that I did myself actually resolved the issue at hand. It was that issue when the engine goes erratic just a couple of blocks away from home because the throttle butterfly sticks to the bore and the fix is to clean all that black goop from the bore surface.
The following users liked this post:
Lucielle (10-22-2021)
#12
Thank you, cheers,
#13
limp home
From what I have read on this forum, the symptoms you describe; ASC not available, TRAC not available, failsafe engine, when occurring together, indicate a voltage problem, usually attributed to the battery. You seem to have eliminated that by keeping it charged, and monitoring the voltage. Have you taken apart and cleaned all the cable connections from the battery to the front of the car. There are also several component earth connections that can corrode, also the main earth lead from the motor to the chassis. A bluetooth OBD connector used with a program like Torque on your smartphone will enable you to monitor fault codes.
good luck
good luck
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Lucielle (10-22-2021)
#14
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#15
"Jim, would you know, or remember if there were any codes and/or which codes were they?"
Reinaldo: Do a search against Danielsand's contribution (fairly large, heavy on timing chains) and you should find that particular thread response. I don't remember if he had codes and he wasn't one to head for a dealer to use their complement of software.
Reinaldo: Do a search against Danielsand's contribution (fairly large, heavy on timing chains) and you should find that particular thread response. I don't remember if he had codes and he wasn't one to head for a dealer to use their complement of software.
#18
Limp Home Madness
I had a similar intermittent problem with my 2K XJ8 but it would only start "limping" when I pushed the accelerator down to the floor. It would also hesitate sometimes during gentle acceleration as well. I followed the advice from one of the posts here and cleaned the connector to the TB with contact cleaner. All good for now but I'm keeping in mind that the vehicle is nearly 18 years old so dirty connectors (and there's lots of connectors) may be a recurring issue. Contact cleaner is now part of the things I have stowed away in the trunk.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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Lucielle (10-22-2021)
#19
I had a similar intermittent problem with my 2K XJ8 but it would only start "limping" when I pushed the accelerator down to the floor. It would also hesitate sometimes during gentle acceleration as well. I followed the advice from one of the posts here and cleaned the connector to the TB with contact cleaner. All good for now but I'm keeping in mind that the vehicle is nearly 18 years old so dirty connectors (and there's lots of connectors) may be a recurring issue. Contact cleaner is now part of the things I have stowed away in the trunk.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Actually, I still have the ASC warning coming on, probably from dirty wheel sensors that I need to clean again, but which is a totally different issue from the throttle body. However, you can just imagine how this was a highly confusing warning back when the car was stalling and going into limp home mode because of a totally different (and then unknown) reason. Aahh, but the car is so beautiful and sooo worth it....