So, my 99' xj8 has had its share of issues. Latest was a problem that I eventually found out was caused by a problem with the ABS/TC Module. I heard tales of issues with solder points, but I made a slight error while opening up mine. As a result, I bought a used module, installed it.

Now my car won't start at all. It comes up with "restricted performance" and will not start. The first couple of attempts resulted in a brief start followed by it sputtering to a stop. Now (after recharging the battery), it won't even get that far. It turns over, but nothing happens. Spark plugs seems fine (pulled a plug, grounded it, and watched for a spark while turning the car over), Compression seems fine (rag stuffed in the spark plug hole "popped" out during turn over), and fuel seems fine (poked the schroeder valve, and ended up with a fair amount of gasoline covering my face). A mechanic friend suggested that this is a problem caused by the security system that triggers when the battery is left unplugged for over 24 hours. Said friend also stated that only the dealer is able to reset this system.

I assume the reason only the dealer can do this is that it requires a WDS. Is this something I should just have the dealer do, or should I see if someone with a WDS is able to make a house call? Or maybe there is something else I can do myself to resolve the issue?

TLR Messed with brake system, now the car won't start. HALP.


Update: It was the nikasil cylinder wash issue.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Does it spin *faster* than normal, like there is not alot of compression?

You can have compression, but not enough to start with a cylinder wash issue. (been there)

You have spark and fuel, so the only thing missing is the right amount of compression- do you have a compression tester?

 

Sounds like u need to hold the pedal to floor and see if it will crank...if that doesn't then pull plugs and put a lil oil in each plug hole reinstall and try again with pedal to floor.

 

It doesn't seem to spin faster than normal, but I may not be the best judge of that. I do not own a compression tester, but they seem fairly cheap so I could pick one up on my way home. If it is a cylinder wash issue, how would I go about resolving it?

Also, this may be of note, The "restricted performance" message, came up before I tried starting the car the first time. So some part of the car has known what is wrong the whole time, but since my OBDII scanner doesn't show anything, whatever it knows it will only tell a WDS.

 

Pick up a tester on the way home (Autozone or whatever) and check the compression- then report back the numbers, that will tell us if it is compression or not. Pick up a quart of oil while you are at it, you may need it.

As far as restricted performance, I think that is another issue- is there anything not connected, or leaking (vacuum lines etc) from when you worked on the ABS?

I would think it should still start even with the restricted performance light on, I will defer to the experts on that though.

 

I checked that area over and over again. Nothing there to indicate any problems. I've wanted to get the battery tested as well, but the bracket holding the battery down is a pain in the *** to remove. Going to buy a torx tool set on my way home to get at that as well.

 

Any updates?

 

Turns out that it was indeed a compression issue. No compression at all from any cylinder. I pretty much gave up at this point and took it to a mechanic.

I'm a tad confused as to exactly what was wrong, but from the explanation given to me it was that the oil coating the piston rings had been "washed out". He resolved the issue by pulling the plugs, dumping oil into the cylinders, turning the car over, and repeating until it got compression.

I've never heard of this sort of issue with any other car, but to the guy's credit, it did in fact fix the issue. So I am now up and running.

 

Cylinder wash of nikasil lined engines has surprised many owners. It can be avoided by always allowing the engine to warm up, but when you try to start it and it doesn't fire for some reason, you get caught and end up with two problems.

 

A few early years had a setting which gave the car too much fuel when it is cold. If the car almost starts and then stalls, (or is started AND NOT WARMED UP) the next time you start it it gets flooded. I recommend that my daughter run the engine for no less than 1 minute even if she just needs to move it around the driveway.

These years also had nikasil coated cylinders (think chrome) which are very slippery, and don't hold on to oil well (especially when too much gas "washes" the oil down). Oil between the piston rings and cylinder walls is required for sufficient compression, or the car doesn't have enough (compression)to start.


Thus cylinder wash.

Good thing the mechanic is trustworthy and Seemingly knowledgeable, I have seen very large bills on this board when mechanics start troubleshooting and don't know exactly where to look....

Bring it by the meeting on the 12th, the club *needs* another x308. *free coffee and donuts*

 

I just might end up doing that. It did end up about $500, but that was for diag + repair + 8 new plugs (the old fuel-soaked ones looked like a dog had chewed on them). Also, it was another mechanic that referred me to this guy, citing him as the local "jag" guy. The reputation became apparent when I saw that there were 7 other jags being worked on at that shop, including another X308.

Now I just need to find where the antenna motor is getting itself stuck.

 

Antenna- could be a piece broken off inside the motor, easy fix.

 

I think it is just a tooth that got chipped off a gear. The antenna extends perfectly fine, but when retracting it needs a little "push" first.