Ok, this started happening about 2 weeks after I changed my steering wheel, was told that wouldn't make a difference? about a month ago, since then it appears lights are failing all around now, no good hah!

First, my interior lights AND fog lights in front (not the dome, the lights under the controls and such, clock etc) would go out when I would turn the blinker left or right. When the blinker would come back to position after turn the lights would turn back on (button and fog lights included). That happened for about 2 weeks, now they don't work at all.

Now my taillights are completely out. headlights STILL work, no fog lights, no lights under controls inside. Reverse fog lights DO work (should reverse fog lights be red btw?) Taillights now dead, no power to connectors.

My mechanic tried to fix it, seems there is something up. Multimetered the taillights today, the plugs do not get juice at all. I don't even get the DINGing sound anymore if you leave your lights on and get out the car, that's gone completely as well.

Says it could be a module burnt out for a few of those issues? Any thoughts guys, my only option is the dealer now, which i've no problem with for this issue. As well could this be a fire hazard?

 

I can't answer your problem, but I do know that rear facing fog lights are red.

 

Hah its cool, I doubt there is much that anyone can tell me besides electronics are failing and to take it to the dealer which I plan on doing, I've got license this month! dooh :P Thanks dude I thought they were!

 

Its bad when the evil faries get into the electrics! I hope you sort it out soon! I'm fitting some yellow H1 bulbs in my Front Fogs soon, I think that would look good when they're lit. A bit like they were in France back in the day!

 

Hey I also wanted to say that my steering column was never adjustable since I got the car. That electrical as well perhaps or just dead? I never was able to actually position my wheel, how sh*tty is that hah?

 

no telescoping or tilting steering wheel? bummer... body module(s)? It'd be interesting to see what codes a scanner beyond the generic OBDII type can see, with the right tools you can see codes generated from all modules and systems. Time to pay the dealer for a diagnostic evaluation, get their opinion, and then choose to stay indy or leave it with the dealer.

 

Only because you said most problems started when wheel was replaced. I would check the wiring that is attached to the steering column before checking anything else. What I mean is if you pull the knee bolster off, the panel just below the steering column held with 4 screws, and look at the column area behind that panel. You should see 3 or 4 white, yellow, grey and or black multipin connectors that sre connected to the column with metal mounting tabs. The wires that go into these connectors like to break due to column movement during auto function. Just remove the connectors from their mounting tabs and give all the wires a good tug. Any wires that are broken or about to break will pull apart. Most if not all of your problems could be caused by wiring faults here.

 

Thanks for the replies. Yes h20boy I guess it would be more of a bummer for no telescoping or tilting steering wheel if I was able to use it when I bought the car :P Not a big deal.

Thanks Realtech that is something I can actually check myself for once hah. Are those torx screws or? If you've any clue. Yeah it would make sense because it really did happen after the wheel change, especially with the turn signal turning the fog light/cabin button lights on and off when used.

Here's the kicker for the telescoping or tilting steering wheel.. it STILL moves for the 1-3 pre-set positions on the door panel, so I guess the motor inside still works, I just can't do it myself. It's the 'lil turny knob' by the fogs right hah? Yeah mine does nothing or how do you use it Ive tried turning and pulling it, does nuffin or am I doing it wrong perhaps? :P

If it doesn't snow like a banshee i'll give it a shot to check the loose wires if I can manage.

 

its a little joystick ... lift it up, down, towards you and away... don't pull, and turning it only sets the auto feature on it.

 

Well then, don't I feel cool. Yeah it still works, I was using the dimmer knob instead oops haha. Anyways yes it works like a charm I just moved it to bus driver position so I can get my durn legs in there. Thanks.

I called the dealer, they said only thing available is diagnostics on the ride, so looks like i'll be sitting

 

Assuming you don't like the bus driver position......

If you leave the steering column switch set to "auto" as mentioned by h20boy, when you take the keys out, the wheel will move to the full up position, and the seat motors all the way back to enable exit/entry.

Once you put the keys back in the wheel and seat returns to their previous memory position. Cool :-)

It's worth getting the user manual and reading though as there are a lot of features on the car that are not obvious. Supersport is currently kindly hosting these files for free download here http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=3...e4b9ac475cdcd3

 

Yeah thats the only thing I wasn't aware of thus far, I was pressing wrong knob haha. Anyways, I like the bus driver position, im 6'3 so it works out in this tiny ride.

Am I the only one that thinks an XJ sport coupe version sitting on the XK frame would have been SWEET!?

 

haha just got back from the dealer. God those places are absolutely horrid! Sorry no offense to any that work in the field, but total ripoff. They wanted $650 for this job... a few wires that broke away from the blinker.... or it could be the whole switch. makes complete sense.

Anyways, this problem was related to what I said before, its the stupid

JAGUAR XJ8 HEADLAMP INDICATOR STALK / SWITCH


LNC-6455BA = $247 at the dealer for a plastic blinker, talk about luxury haha that thing should be chrome plated!

twas told by dealer the wires had been pulled from the solder points basically, or it could be the whole switch. Just wasn't getting a connection. basic 101 eletronics hah.. Im gonna check it out, might be something as small as a solder job.

Will report back.. but in the meantime anyone find cheaper than $70 cause this dude sells used ones for that

http://www.masseysautoparts.com/srch/L/sLNC.htm

 

Hrmm ... well I see the wiring etc coming from the blinker switch to a circut board. Everything I can see seems to be intact (hard to see of course very small car) what could this green wire be? im pretty sure it was soldered to something as you can see there is solder on the ends of the wire.

NOW, the dealer told me my car doesn't have auto lights, so it shouldn't have an auto switch originally. Whelp, of course, I have an auto switch. I've seen the non-auto switches and of course, there is no AUTO setting like mine. This confirms the previous owner/s must have already tinkered with this before eh and put an auto switch on my vehicle? I guess I can be sure in 2hrs when it gets dark (I never have had to drive it at dark hah seriously so I didnt really know)

Can anyone tell me whats up with this green wire, its dangling there, could this by my culprit for my loss of lighting, or has the switched failed, lets hear some hypothesis eh? hah

 

Well, if I knew the year of your XJ, I might be able to get the electrical diagram for you, alas, it isn't there in the OP.

Is it the green w/ black tracer?

 

Thanks man, you're right I didn't mention it this time. My apologies sir. All good it's a 98 XJ8. Anyways I was just curious of the green wire hanging out, was wondering if that was it. Getting a new switch tomorrow anyways I believe, not worth time nor effort when I can have it installed for $25 and call it a day. Thanks for your time and effort, always appreciated. Peace!

 

Lots of cars now have a peculiar device on the column underneath the steering wheel to connect up the switches on the wheel that move with it. As you troubles started with removing the wheel, did you check on the procedure to ensure this rotary switch does not move whilst the wheel is off. On my Rover 75, the instructions are to tape it in the position it is when the wheel is removed to stop it moving, so its in the right position when the wheel is replaced. I don't see how you could have damaged the fixed switches below the wheel, why would they be disturbed ?

 

Well I didn't put the wheel on, ASE cert'd techs did, so it's nothing on my part. I was just wanting to go out yesterday and see what the fuss was about in the column after getting back from the dealer. I've no clue how they put the wheel on, obviously it wasn't correctly cause it only took about two weeks of using my blinker sever whatever wires are gone.

Sad nobody knows what the green wire is that is hanging there, I was just curious to know. Enjoy

 

not that it matters or anyone on here really cares but It was the green wire, that seems to connect your stalk to the rest of your sh*t (IE taillights, fog lights, button lights) Pretty easy eletronics 101. Sad stuff, that's all I had to do was solder that back in place. Oh well got a new one, have a 'replacement' hah not that i'll ever need it. it's done took 20 mins and $100 even.

The 'wiring diagram' was definitely not even needed as you can see, pretty self explanatory that if wires are exposed with solder on the end, odds are they were once connected. Goodluck kids.