Fail Safe Engine Mode
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Fail Safe Engine Mode
I own a 1998 XJ8 VDP. For the last 2000 miles or so, the Fail Safe Engine Mode warning light comes on after driving a few miles, with an amber warning light, meaning that the car is OK to drive. The car drives fine except that the cruise control does not work. Does anyone know what causes this warning? The closest dealer is more than an hour away, and I really don't want to spend a half a day and several hundred bucks if I can avoid it.
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Fail Safe Engine Mode
I too have a 98 VDP with the Failsafe Engine Mode message. It's been at the shop for three weeks now, and I just talked to the mechanic who said he has no clue as to what it might be. Someone PLEASE help with any ideas!!! I'm desperate, and thinking of trading this thing in for another make if I don't get it figured out. When the light comes on, I get no cruise control and decreased performance/power. Help!
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
P1111 and P1643 Code
I took my 98 VandenPlas to AutoZone. They plugged in their code detector and came up with two fault codes: P1111 and P1643.
The Vehicle's Fail Safe Engine Mode amber light comes on intermittently and knocks out the cruise control feature when it does. I cannot determine any pattern to the occurrence.
Any ideas????
The Vehicle's Fail Safe Engine Mode amber light comes on intermittently and knocks out the cruise control feature when it does. I cannot determine any pattern to the occurrence.
Any ideas????
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Trending Topics
#8
Mine had the same problem, and unfortunately, I did a couple things all at once, so I'm not positive which fix actually fixed it. EDIT: My Failsafe would come on when I tried to activate the Cruise Control.
I sprayed the brake switch with WD40 to get the contacts working again (I believe this was the actual fix).
I cleaned the Air Cleaner, Throttle Body and MAF sensor.
I cleaned the breather hole on the driver side valve cover. While doing this, I noticed a small crack in the vacuum hose leading to this (Might also have been the problem). I applied black silicone sealer to the hose since replacing it meant removing it from under the SuperCharger, and that did not look fun. This hose was VERY brittle, so will probably fail again some day.
Good luck, and I hope something in this thread helps!
I sprayed the brake switch with WD40 to get the contacts working again (I believe this was the actual fix).
I cleaned the Air Cleaner, Throttle Body and MAF sensor.
I cleaned the breather hole on the driver side valve cover. While doing this, I noticed a small crack in the vacuum hose leading to this (Might also have been the problem). I applied black silicone sealer to the hose since replacing it meant removing it from under the SuperCharger, and that did not look fun. This hose was VERY brittle, so will probably fail again some day.
Good luck, and I hope something in this thread helps!
Last edited by SuperSport; 04-29-2009 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Clarification
The following users liked this post:
3timejag (11-01-2015)
#9
I don't have a solution for you, but here's the info that JTIS has for your code:
DTC
P1643
Description:
CAN TCM token missing
Monitoring conditions:
Ignition ON > 5 seconds
Default Action:
When fault is detected, ECM:
– Limits throttle to 30%
(Torque reduction request data
missing results in harsh
transmission shifts)
Possible causes:
CAN open circuit fault – TCM to ECM
CAN short circuit fault
TCM failure
ECM failure
The other code you can ignore--one of either P1000 or P1111 will always be present and aren't trouble codes.
TTYL
David
DTC
P1643
Description:
CAN TCM token missing
Monitoring conditions:
Ignition ON > 5 seconds
Default Action:
When fault is detected, ECM:
– Limits throttle to 30%
(Torque reduction request data
missing results in harsh
transmission shifts)
Possible causes:
CAN open circuit fault – TCM to ECM
CAN short circuit fault
TCM failure
ECM failure
The other code you can ignore--one of either P1000 or P1111 will always be present and aren't trouble codes.
TTYL
David
The following users liked this post:
3timejag (11-01-2015)
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Engine Fail Safe light
Thanks for the ideas! I will check all these out. Doing all three if it fixes the problem is fine with me! I just want it to go away. Can you tell me where the brake switch is located and what it looks like?
Thanks again for the suggestions!
Thanks again for the suggestions!
Mine had the same problem, and unfortunately, I did a couple things all at once, so I'm not positive which fix actually fixed it.
I sprayed the brake switch with WD40 to get the contacts working again (I believe this was the actual fix).
I cleaned the Air Cleaner, Throttle Body and MAF sensor.
I cleaned the breather hole on the driver side valve cover. While doing this, I noticed a small crack in the vacuum hose leading to this (Might also have been the problem). I applied black silicone sealer to the hose since replacing it meant removing it from under the SuperCharger, and that did not look fun. This hose was VERY brittle, so will probably fail again some day.
Good luck, and I hope something in this thread helps!
I sprayed the brake switch with WD40 to get the contacts working again (I believe this was the actual fix).
I cleaned the Air Cleaner, Throttle Body and MAF sensor.
I cleaned the breather hole on the driver side valve cover. While doing this, I noticed a small crack in the vacuum hose leading to this (Might also have been the problem). I applied black silicone sealer to the hose since replacing it meant removing it from under the SuperCharger, and that did not look fun. This hose was VERY brittle, so will probably fail again some day.
Good luck, and I hope something in this thread helps!
The following users liked this post:
3timejag (11-01-2015)
#11
I've done this to many other vehicles in the past and benefited from a few more years use from them before having to replace. Sometimes replacement is the only option due to broken internals.
Attached is an image of the switch.
Just for future knowledge: I use the same method for MANY parts in a car or bike. Door Lock Actuators that don't seem to work anymore, Dome Light Switches in the Door Jambs and Latches, The Trunk Light Switch in the Latch Mechanism, Door Latches, Slow Moving Electric Windows, etc, etc... Sometimes this is only a temporary fix as some items truly need to be cleaned and re-greased. But for this specific switch, it's a permanant fix as long as the switch continues to operate.
#13
Just to be absolutely sure, you could always do a continuity test on the switch to be sure it's working. If not, then replacement would be your only option.
And, as others have mentioned, it could very well have been my throttle body cleaning that fixed it. Either way, all of these maintenance items should be looked after anyways.
I would suggest you look at this thread and follow the link in the first post. It leads to an Adobe PDF File, and is the best tutorial on how to clean these parts that I've seen to date. It's for an XKR, but it's pretty identical. Thanks to Mrtexasdan...
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...+body+cleaning
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
Last edited by SuperSport; 05-01-2009 at 12:24 PM.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Same thing on my 98 VDP
I own a 1998 XJ8 VDP. For the last 2000 miles or so, the Fail Safe Engine Mode warning light comes on after driving a few miles, with an amber warning light, meaning that the car is OK to drive. The car drives fine except that the cruise control does not work. Does anyone know what causes this warning? The closest dealer is more than an hour away, and I really don't want to spend a half a day and several hundred bucks if I can avoid it.
I had the same light and condition on my 98 VPD. I took it to the Jag dealer and they replaced a brake sensor (at one of the wheels I think). This fixed the problem. They told me it was common for them to go bad.
#15
I had the same problem ( the engine fail safe mode came up when i tried to turn on cruise contol) as "SuperSport" said you should check all the conections around your throttle body and double check all the hoses (small ones) if any of the hose has crack then there is no vacum and no cruise controll.... all those small hoses fom getting old are becomming realy "cracky" so even when you try to move it you may brake it... so buy a meter of hose (inside diameter of the hose is 6mm as i remember) and change all defected ones... good luck
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
I had that problem on my 01 XJ8. I replaced the brake switch located under the instrument panel by the brake petal. It was about a $70 part and not to hard to replace. One electrical connection and one or two nuts. I suppose there could be other things s well, but it is a good place to start and you might get lucky and it will do the trick. Good luck.
#17
Thanks SuperSport, the WD40 trick on the brake switch worked great. I sprayed the switch liberally, let it drip off for about twenty minutes then took the car for ride. The failsafe light came on as usual after a few miles then went off after cycling the brake pedal a few times. It's been two weeks now and still no return of the failsafe indication. My only question is, what lead you to try this in the first place? Seams like SWAG at best. Thanks again for the suggestion! I do not think I could keep my Jaguar XJ8 going without this forum.
T
T
#18
Thanks SuperSport, the WD40 trick on the brake switch worked great. I sprayed the switch liberally, let it drip off for about twenty minutes then took the car for ride. The failsafe light came on as usual after a few miles then went off after cycling the brake pedal a few times. It's been two weeks now and still no return of the failsafe indication. My only question is, what lead you to try this in the first place? Seams like SWAG at best. Thanks again for the suggestion! I do not think I could keep my Jaguar XJ8 going without this forum.
T
T
#19
jaguaur
I own a 1998 XJ8 VDP. For the last 2000 miles or so, the Fail Safe Engine Mode warning light comes on after driving a few miles, with an amber warning light, meaning that the car is OK to drive. The car drives fine except that the cruise control does not work. Does anyone know what causes this warning? The closest dealer is more than an hour away, and I really don't want to spend a half a day and several hundred bucks if I can avoid it.
#20
Had the same problem on my wife's 2000 XJR. Engine Fail Safe light comes on. Cruise control stops working. Initially was intermittent, then consistently would come on after only a couple of miles of driving. Had codes checked and they said "Brake Light Switch" was bad. I followed her to the shop for the repair and noticed that her brake lights came on after a couple of miles. Called her and she said the Fail Safe light just came on. Of course we all know that stepping on the brakes kills the cruise control so I was confident replacing the switch would fix the problem...and it did. (Repair made July 27, 2015).