Front Shock Mount Bushings
#1
#3
It used to be cheaper to just replace the bushings, but now you can buy the entire mount plate with new bushings for $50-70 or less per side, OEM cost is $350 per side, bushing cost about $25 per side or less.
As was said, Rock Auto and other sites have the complete assembly, a few nuts to R&R and you are done.
Put the car up on jack stands to take the pressure off the shock rod before you start the swap, several threads on here about the procedure.
My thread about replacing the bushings only, same procedure applies to the entire mount:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cs-how-128562/
Vector
As was said, Rock Auto and other sites have the complete assembly, a few nuts to R&R and you are done.
Put the car up on jack stands to take the pressure off the shock rod before you start the swap, several threads on here about the procedure.
My thread about replacing the bushings only, same procedure applies to the entire mount:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cs-how-128562/
Vector
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Johnny_B (07-10-2016)
#4
Rock auto sells URO shock mounts (complete assembly) for under $40 per side. At that price, why bother with bushings?
A note on DIY'ing the shock mounts: while all other guys here reported that it was easy, I jacked the car up, and the final center bolt (that goes through the bushings) would not budge. No independent mechanic I could find in the area I was in (SoCal) would use my parts, so I paid a dealer $270 to install them.
Best of luck, chap.
A note on DIY'ing the shock mounts: while all other guys here reported that it was easy, I jacked the car up, and the final center bolt (that goes through the bushings) would not budge. No independent mechanic I could find in the area I was in (SoCal) would use my parts, so I paid a dealer $270 to install them.
Best of luck, chap.
#5
A note on DIY'ing the shock mounts: while all other guys here reported that it was easy, I jacked the car up, and the final center bolt (that goes through the bushings) would not budge. No independent mechanic I could find in the area I was in (SoCal) would use my parts, so I paid a dealer $270 to install them.
See the pics in my thread with two wrenches on the shock rod and you will see what I mean.
It is a 30 minute job to R&R the mounting plates with bushings in place, including the time too jack the front end up and lower it back down, no need to be intimated by the job, on a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I would rate this a 1.5.
Vector
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Johnny_B (07-10-2016)
#7
The threaded "bolt" is the top of the shock rod, it doesn't move, you hold the rod with a wrench and remove the nut from the threaded rod, then installation is the reverse of the removal. If you were trying to remove the "bolt" there is no way to take it out if I understand what you are saying.
See the pics in my thread with two wrenches on the shock rod and you will see what I mean.
It is a 30 minute job to R&R the mounting plates with bushings in place, including the time too jack the front end up and lower it back down, no need to be intimated by the job, on a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I would rate this a 1.5.
Vector
See the pics in my thread with two wrenches on the shock rod and you will see what I mean.
It is a 30 minute job to R&R the mounting plates with bushings in place, including the time too jack the front end up and lower it back down, no need to be intimated by the job, on a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I would rate this a 1.5.
Vector
I have in the past removed the upper mounts without lifting the vehicle. Any advise on removing the bushes?
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#8
The threaded "bolt" is the top of the shock rod, it doesn't move, you hold the rod with a wrench and remove the nut from the threaded rod, then installation is the reverse of the removal. If you were trying to remove the "bolt" there is no way to take it out if I understand what you are saying.
See the pics in my thread with two wrenches on the shock rod and you will see what I mean.
It is a 30 minute job to R&R the mounting plates with bushings in place, including the time too jack the front end up and lower it back down, no need to be intimated by the job, on a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I would rate this a 1.5.
Vector
See the pics in my thread with two wrenches on the shock rod and you will see what I mean.
It is a 30 minute job to R&R the mounting plates with bushings in place, including the time too jack the front end up and lower it back down, no need to be intimated by the job, on a difficulty scale of 1 to 10, I would rate this a 1.5.
Vector
#9
Let it soak in PT Blaster or some other penetrating oil and try again. Some times tapping with a hammer or heat from a torch will break a rust bind. Try hold the shock rod with very tight Locktight pliers. Barring that, get a nut buster and break it. Most parts or hardware stores can replace the nut.
What happens on the other side?
See, the problem with cutesy locations like "On the road" don't tell us whether your car has been overly exposed to harsh winters or salty sea breezes and rusted your parts.
What happens on the other side?
See, the problem with cutesy locations like "On the road" don't tell us whether your car has been overly exposed to harsh winters or salty sea breezes and rusted your parts.
#10
Vector
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Johnny_B (07-10-2016)
#11
Let it soak in PT Blaster or some other penetrating oil and try again. Some times tapping with a hammer or heat from a torch will break a rust bind. Try hold the shock rod with very tight Locktight pliers. Barring that, get a nut buster and break it. Most parts or hardware stores can replace the nut.
What happens on the other side?
See, the problem with cutesy locations like "On the road" don't tell us whether your car has been overly exposed to harsh winters or salty sea breezes and rusted your parts.
What happens on the other side?
See, the problem with cutesy locations like "On the road" don't tell us whether your car has been overly exposed to harsh winters or salty sea breezes and rusted your parts.
"On the road" wasn't meant to be "cutesy." It's a euphemism for nomadic, or to be blunt, homeless. I had an extreme falling out (I'm gay; that was a big problem) with my nearest living relatives in FL while living with them following my abrupt departure from New Zealand*. I couldn't continue to live with someone who thinks that I'm an at-risk pedophile among other things. So I loaded up the XJ with everything that I owned: clothes, passport, laptop, the odd small memento and left on April 23. Fortunately, I have a bit of money from the sale of my late mother's house, but given that I am hemorrhaging money on accommodation, food, and gas, I ultimately am hurtling towards a problem. A couple of friends were immensely helpful in letting me crash for a few weeks, but that was wiped out when I had to replace my transmission in Kentucky.
I expected to have settled and gotten a job in the US months ago, but being "nomadic" is extremely disruptive to productivity.
So, my location?
I left the West Palm Beach area in late April, stayed nearly 3 weeks in Lexington KY where I replaced the transmission in May, drove to San Diego to see a friend and stayed with them a couple of weeks in June (attempted the thread operation here), and I am now 2.5 hours east of Calgary, Alberta. I've put 15,000 miles on this car since buying it in February.
The first 40,000 miles were put on the car 2003-2016 by its first & only other owner on Long Island, NY.
#12
That makes sense. I see there are a number of vendors on EBay that carry the black bushes. I may try these. In replacing the bushes, have you (or anyone) experienced a difference in how the vehicle handles? (I am replacing it because it is starting to clunk). Will be doing upper bushings, upper and lower control arms, as well as anti-roll bar bushes. I replaced the sway bar links about 9 months ago. Are there any other bushes in the front I should be replacing at this time also?
#13
That makes sense. I see there are a number of vendors on EBay that carry the black bushes. I may try these. In replacing the bushes, have you (or anyone) experienced a difference in how the vehicle handles? (I am replacing it because it is starting to clunk). Will be doing upper bushings, upper and lower control arms, as well as anti-roll bar bushes. I replaced the sway bar links about 9 months ago. Are there any other bushes in the front I should be replacing at this time also?
The car rides and handles like new now. I was chasing some vibrations that were mostly cured by Hunter Road Force balance on the wheels, these cars (especially the R with sport suspension) do not like any out of balance issues and the tires cannot be properly balanced without really good equipment and a knowledgeable tech. (I know, your "Uncle" always balances tires with an old bubble balancer and gets it perfect every time - tell it to someone else, OK?)
I was amazed at the difference throwing in $200 in parts and a couple of hours of labor made in the car. It feels tight and new again.
Vector
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Johnny_B (07-10-2016)
#14
I rebuilt the upper mounts with hard polyurethane the first month I had the car. Didn't help the handling, but in the winter they rattled terribly. Last Fall I bought new ones: Uro on the right, Maele on the left. Rode like new, handled like my first X308 did when it was new, and best of all, last Winter, no rattles. Even the thump I had endured on the left side, going over bumps, was gone. I think the Maele (sic) are better than the Uro.
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Johnny_B (07-10-2016)
#15
I rebuilt the upper mounts with hard polyurethane the first month I had the car. Didn't help the handling, but in the winter they rattled terribly. Last Fall I bought new ones: Uro on the right, Maele on the left. Rode like new, handled like my first X308 did when it was new, and best of all, last Winter, no rattles. Even the thump I had endured on the left side, going over bumps, was gone. I think the Maele (sic) are better than the Uro.
Our Jags, even with sport suspension, are supposed to have a firm, but supple ride.
Vector
#16
#17
#18
I have seen that too, but $50.00 ea for the plate is still $100 for both, vs. $50 for the bushings, and an hour of my time.
#19
One more time: the replacement polyurethane are terrible when it gets below 40*F in the winter. They bang away. The Uro and Maele replacements may be more expensive but give a much better ride, more positive steering control and are dead quiet in the Winter. Going cheap is not the right answer..
Actually, with experience on both sides of the argument, I would suggest it is better to leave the old mounts in place even if they do look like they are beginning to crumble than to rebuild with the poly replacement.
Actually, with experience on both sides of the argument, I would suggest it is better to leave the old mounts in place even if they do look like they are beginning to crumble than to rebuild with the poly replacement.
#20
I can totally see how the polyurethane bushings could squeak and perform otherwise poorly in cold weather. It makes sense based on the different composition of the bushings, as compared to the spongy factory bushings.
I have to report my experience though, just to be fair. I live in NC so it's a relatively mild climate compared to some of you. Last Winter however I drove my 2001 XJ8 back and forth to work (30 miles each way) 5 days a week and never had any issues with the poly bushings. Some of those days were below 10 degrees F and MANY days were below freezing. I even drove home in heavy snow one day which made a 29 mile drive take almost two hours! We don't have much for snow clearing equipment in NC.
I agree with Jim that the slightly more expensive mounts are a better choice, but since I had a good experience with the poly bushings I feel obligated to give them a good review. The Meyle and Uro mounts were not available when I re-did mine, so it was either poly bushings or mucho money for Jaguar mounts.
I have since sold the car, but I drove on the poly bushings for almost a full year. (15,000 miles)
I have to report my experience though, just to be fair. I live in NC so it's a relatively mild climate compared to some of you. Last Winter however I drove my 2001 XJ8 back and forth to work (30 miles each way) 5 days a week and never had any issues with the poly bushings. Some of those days were below 10 degrees F and MANY days were below freezing. I even drove home in heavy snow one day which made a 29 mile drive take almost two hours! We don't have much for snow clearing equipment in NC.
I agree with Jim that the slightly more expensive mounts are a better choice, but since I had a good experience with the poly bushings I feel obligated to give them a good review. The Meyle and Uro mounts were not available when I re-did mine, so it was either poly bushings or mucho money for Jaguar mounts.
I have since sold the car, but I drove on the poly bushings for almost a full year. (15,000 miles)
Last edited by harvest14; 07-15-2016 at 10:47 AM.