Front subframe drop
#1
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Can anyone give me a rough (very rough) overview on what the major detachment points are when dropping the front subframe with engine & transmission attached? I'm imagining the exhaust, steering shaft, shock tops, and wiring - sound about right? Where is the best place to disconnect the steering shaft and wiring?
Much thanks!
Much thanks!
#2
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I disconnect the steering column link at the rack. You need to mark the shaft to re-align when reconnecting. (don't turn the wheel and damage the 'cassette reel' in the cancellation module for the steering wheel controls/airbag)
The shaft will need to be tucked out of the way as the engine is lowered.
The entire engine electrical is a single plug/socket at the rear of the engine.
There are some wires/connectors to the gearbox as well.
I leave the gearbox rear mount aluminum bracket on the tailshaft and disconnect it from the body when the engine/trans is resting on some steel tables with strong castors. Remember the single plug on the steering rack for the variable steering actuator.
You can pull the PAS reservoir supply hose to the pump and also disconnect the cooler fitting at the right front of the subframe area.
Both the heater lines (rear of engine), cooling system hoses and gearbox cooler lines to the radiator.
I have not done one in a while but this is how I remove the engine. (complete with gearbox on 2 steel rolling tables)
If you use 2 tables, you can 'wheel' the gearbox from the engine. Be sure to remove the torque converter drive bolts and lower bell housing bolts as these will be inaccessible with the units resting on the tables or the floor.
The 4 VEE mount bolts are accessed from the engine compartment while standing on a ladder. I remove these and the trans cross mount LAST. The propshaft can be slid back and pushed to the side. (no need to remove entirely)
bob gauff
The shaft will need to be tucked out of the way as the engine is lowered.
The entire engine electrical is a single plug/socket at the rear of the engine.
There are some wires/connectors to the gearbox as well.
I leave the gearbox rear mount aluminum bracket on the tailshaft and disconnect it from the body when the engine/trans is resting on some steel tables with strong castors. Remember the single plug on the steering rack for the variable steering actuator.
You can pull the PAS reservoir supply hose to the pump and also disconnect the cooler fitting at the right front of the subframe area.
Both the heater lines (rear of engine), cooling system hoses and gearbox cooler lines to the radiator.
I have not done one in a while but this is how I remove the engine. (complete with gearbox on 2 steel rolling tables)
If you use 2 tables, you can 'wheel' the gearbox from the engine. Be sure to remove the torque converter drive bolts and lower bell housing bolts as these will be inaccessible with the units resting on the tables or the floor.
The 4 VEE mount bolts are accessed from the engine compartment while standing on a ladder. I remove these and the trans cross mount LAST. The propshaft can be slid back and pushed to the side. (no need to remove entirely)
bob gauff
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sparkenzap (11-20-2014)
#3
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Thank you very much! This is a drivetrain removal scenario in a parts car, so I don't need to be terribly delicate - or worry about reassembling! I just hate pointlessly damaging anything, and it'll be an educational experience should I ever get here on my XJR. ![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My plan at the moment is to drop the subframe on the floor and just lift the car over - high ceilings in a deep garage facilitate a lot of shenanigans.
![Smile](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My plan at the moment is to drop the subframe on the floor and just lift the car over - high ceilings in a deep garage facilitate a lot of shenanigans.
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#4
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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If the ceilings are high enough for shenanigans. And if you have four big air bags you can tie them all to a battery on a switch. With everything disconnected and a few freinds to pull out the engine trans. You may be able to get it high enough to jerk it out quickly before the body comes back down. And please be sure to youtube it
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#5
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As it turns out, I have a nice selection of airbags that I could readily blow up. But I think the better approach is probably just have a couple strong guys standing at the front corners to catch the body before it falls, and just have my girlfriend prop it up with some 2x4s. That should save a lot of time.
#6
#7
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As it turns out, I have a nice selection of airbags that I could readily blow up. But I think the better approach is probably just have a couple strong guys standing at the front corners to catch the body before it falls, and just have my girlfriend prop it up with some 2x4s. That should save a lot of time.
How sane is the girlfriend? Hopefully more so than mine !
She is more than happy to pour melted wax on her legs ( and else where ) and rip it off so she looks good in a bikini.... BUT is sh#t scared of spiders !
Personally I would go with motorcarmans advice. A lot less risk of damage to your Jag and girlfriend.
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#8
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Damon /Houston, Texas
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How sober would these big strong guys be ?
How sane is the girlfriend? Hopefully more so than mine !
She is more than happy to pour melted wax on her legs ( and else where ) and rip it off so she looks good in a bikini.... BUT is sh#t scared of spiders !
Personally I would go with motorcarmans advice. A lot less risk of damage to your Jag and girlfriend.
How sane is the girlfriend? Hopefully more so than mine !
She is more than happy to pour melted wax on her legs ( and else where ) and rip it off so she looks good in a bikini.... BUT is sh#t scared of spiders !
Personally I would go with motorcarmans advice. A lot less risk of damage to your Jag and girlfriend.
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