try to keep this short and hope for some good advice/suggestions:
current situation2000xj8-long):
trying to free up readiness reads for emissions inspection...riding around for last month in my spare time....due for re-inspection...three remaining(still not ready)
my mechanic suggested taking the car for a trip out in the country...i did this....but on the way home....the engine light went on.....looked at codes....possible leak.....but the car...idles as smooth as silk.....you can not even hear the engine running.....
checked gas cap/cleaned and oiled..i even switched the gas cap from my other 2000 xj8.....engine light still on.....

contributing factors:
mixing plus with high test (got to stop this)
adding to much gas treatment/cleaner-gum out to tank(was told this can over sensitize sensor and actually cause engine light to go on)
so here is my dilemma....i need to get the car inspected...it now has the engine light on which means they won't even look at it at the state inspection center and i still need to get readiness readings on the three remaining emission reads...

so this frustrating...any suggestions before i go back to my mechanic?

 

Most states will allow for 1 or 2 readiness codes and still pass. Try resetting the engine codes and see if they come back. There is a procedure to go through the readiness stuff just do a search- but I would check to see what your states' rules are on how many readiness codes.

 

"possible leak"

What kind of leak?

Stewart

 

You really need your own code reader 1. to see what codes 2. to reset the CELs: what codes did the tech see?

I would: 1. clean the MAF 2. clean the throttle bore/plate 3. check small hoses under throttle body 4. clean breather orifice on left bank (carefully, follow the many instructions on this forum) 5. tighten all fittings from air cleaner to throttle body after checking for air leaks.

When were the plugs last changed. If the idle is really that smooth, maybe a bad sensor?

 

what were the codes? Have you tested for leaks?

 

Those are not contributing factors.

Stop assuming and guessing. Get a code reader.

 

looked at acceptable/readers that forum approves of or at least claims success with...looking at the centech-94169 or 98614-2vga......anyone use these and with what success....?

with this car...i have had engine light on problems over the summer which went away with a bottle of gumout....

since i really had not given the car a full throttle...or gone on a long ride (until recently)....because i needed to clear up/turn on the readiness.....i am not surprised....i have the engine light on again......im thinking a leak somewhere or bad sensor....i will know more definitively shortly......

 

At the level of the ELM327, I am partial to this one:

ScanTool.net LLC - OBDLink SX Scan Tool/OBD Interface - ScanTool.net

It works first time, every time.

The included software has emissions test readiness scanning with individual settings for the requirements of each state.

Or try this dealer, they are in Philly if you are in a hurry:

Red OBDLink SX OBD II Scan Tool with USB interface and free OBDWhiz software

also $10 cheaper.

 

update...the reader i purchased.....showing....evaporative systems leak (large leak).for the engine light..i still have two remaining....not readys....re emission testing for inspection.....(i have to address the engine light on- first as the inspection station won't even look at the car with the light on)....before the last trip i took...where i punched out the throttle (and where the engine light came on)...i had 3 not ready ....now down to two.....yes could be a bad sensor....but i believe there is some kind of leak going on....

i am wondering if the suggestions given by jim re clean up of throttle body plate and small hoses check...would still hold...and if the car would be ideling so smoothly if this were the case that is with a large leak...?...also i don't know when the plugs were last changed....not in the last nine months...since i owned the car.....and would not even think of this if car was running rough or i would get a restricted performance message....neither of these have happened...thanks robert/jagjunky.

 

First you switched gas cap but didnt clear codes. May be fixed. But without clearing codes obd2 codes dont just magically go away. Clear all codes and start over. Once the monitor for the evap system resets youll kknow youre fixed, if not then you need to diag and look for gross leaks. The leak is for the evporative emissions syetm nothing else. Ie everywhere there are gas fumes that is the evap system. And btw when youre running monitor resets driving have between a 1/3 and 3/4 tank of gas. No more no less. This will keep monitor checks from running. Google monitors reseting and youll be able to pull up the parameters to get drive cycles to complete

 

another update.......i think i definitely need to especially thank brutal.( and of course every one else)....for picking up on what my mechanic...also mentioned.....that is while i switched gas caps with the light still on ......i did not clear the code for the evaporitive emissions leak..once i did this with my reader.....the engine light went off....and is staying off....the down side to this if i understand correctly is that it resets the computer.....so more driving...as an aside...as i was reading and removing....and was finished....and tried starting the car it started...but i could not get it out of park....which put me in a panic mode....during or as a result of the process i think my security system somehow was activated....i only managed to get the car out of park...by completely removing the key from the column and putting it back in and than starting and thankfully moving the car....wow was that scary!

his belief is that this(neglect to erase code) is/was what...was hampering(or slowing down) my ability to more quickly activate the readiness.....on the emissions check needed for inspection....i also have the documentation (five cycle method)...for doing this properly.....i try keeping the tank between one third and three quarter full...as i drive.

now the next part of the experiment is taking the car for another long drive and see if the engine light comes on again.....better still( or as well) see if the engine light goes on , on my other jag....based on the switch i made with the caps....in the end i hope this is nothing more than a new gas cap fix.....thanks again...

 

reluctant to post a new thread on this as my problem has not yet been solved...bottom line in the state of new jersey...there are seven codes which need to be released for a proper emissions test. As I have recently learned you are only allowed one non release to have them do the emissions test.

In the middle of my driving the car just about everywhere to get the releases OI needed, the red engine light came on. Traced it to a emissions/evaporative fuel system code. I changed the gas cap , reset the code and put about another 120 miles on the car and the red light has not come on again.

Rechecked codes and it looks like three remaining for release:1) catalyst 2) evaporative and 3) something called "components". Does anyone know what components represents? I have a feeling it may be a jag specific/dealer code but i am not sure.

Also i was using the 5 cycle method for releasing (got a copy from the site) but i can tell you unequivocally this process is almost impossible to follow unless you have your own private" performance test track".

 

What are the actual codes? The dealer specific items should only be non emissions related. (airbags, suspension etc) . Auto Enginuity makes a good scan tool that does the dealer stuff. About $500, but worth it. Your scanner should work though for this project

 

thanks lear/45....checked with my mechanic...pretty much confirms what you indicated....as it is non emissions related..that leaves the catalyst and evaporative fuel.....if i can get one of these to release...i can bring the car back to inspection....boy this is taking a long time

 

ok I had this problem with my 2002 VDP. The mechanic did a smoke test and the charcoal canisters, a valve that turns them on and all the hoses in the canister system were replaced this cleared up the problem. Do you get a gas smell anywhere in the car? Mine had a gas smell in the back seat. The smoke test is the bomb (ha ha) The gas cap code is for the entire evap system is what they told me.

 

radbust thanks for the info....i will check with my mechanic.....but there is absolutely no gas smell at all anywhere in the car or around the car...once i changed gas caps and reset code the light went off and has not come back on nor do i get any emissions/fuel related messages and i have put over 100miles on the car since.

changing the cap unfortunately and reset put me back to square one so i am going to have to keep driving under varied conditions for a while but i will keep your suggestion in mind

 

radbust had the smoke test done today and changed the evap purge plug....hoses look good.....hopefully i can get this car inspected at some point