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2002 XJR.
This will be my first time changing a fuel filter. What way should the flow arrow be pointing? Front or rear of the car?
My car has 116k miles. I don't know if the trans fluid has ever been changed before. Should I change it or not? If yes, what fluid and filter is reccomended? Also, how many quarts for a pan drop and refill?
Hi,
just changed the fuel filter. It turned out to be one of the worst jobs on the car so far. You have to be prepared to catch running out fuel, once you managed to get the fuel lines out of the fiilter. The nuts might be very tight and stuck to the fuel line so you have to be careful not to twist the fuel line while loosening them.
My filter is still leaking under pressure at the nuts. The filter didn't t come with o-rings. So maybe you have to get those extra or replace the ones on the en of the fuel lines. Or maybe Marston helps. I have to check out tomorrow........
I changed mine with relatively little mess as follows.
1. Make sure to drive the vehicle until the fuel level is below 1/4 tank mark. Lower the better.
2. I bought my new filter as OEM with o-rings (SNG Barratt)
3. Remove the cap on the fuel pressure test port and depress the schrader valve to relieve system pressure. Cover with a rag to capture fuel spray.
4. Raise the right rear wheel and remove. Place appropriate jack stand and then remove the cover in the wheel arch for access.
5. First loosen and make sure it will unscrew smoothly,the bracket mounting bolt, then reinstall it just tight enough to hold it firmly.
6. Loosen but don't remove the filter pipe nuts. Then go back and remove the bracket mounting bolt.
7. Remove the filter and quickly install the tank side of the filter and then the engine side and the bracket bolt.
With minimum fuel and elevated right wheel area you can minimize fuel flow with the filter out.
Maybe it also depends on the time the old filter has been sitting on the fuel line. I also had planned on a fast change proceedure with a low fuel tank, even had kind of plugs ready. However the awkward position and a faiiling plug got me soaked and running for a canister. I ended up draining the tank. I think the o-rings to change are those that sit on the end of the fuel lines. They are the same as the small ones on the breather hoses, I think.
I don't really know why you have to change the filter at all because there is a fine mesh sock on the fuel pump already, which prevents debris from getting sucked in.
OK, got the filter tight. So here is my procedure for changing a rotten, sticking fuel filter:
1. Sand the fuel line behind the nut positioned toward the wheel to make it moveable.
2. Make sure to have a spanner (21) on the filter when loosenening the fuelline nut, not to twist the fuel line. Carefully loosen it.
3.When the nut is off be prepared that the fuel line sticks stubbornly in the filter. Carefully wiggle it out.
4. If you haven't drained the tank, this might be the moment when fuel will be gushing towards you, making you wonder, why to change the filter the first place.
5. Plug the filter with something you have deviced beforehand.
6. Unscrew the filter holding the nut towards the fuel tank with a spanner.
7. Carefully wiggle out the fuel line.
8. Plug the fuel line. (I used a fountainpen cartrage)
9. Clean the threads of the fuel line nuts with a wire bush.
10. Replace the O- rings at the end of the fuel lines.
11. Optional: cover the threads with teflon tape
13. Remove the plug. Screw on the new filter.
13. Make sure the threads of the fuel line nuts go all the way in, regardless if the new filter has a "low torque " sticker on it.
To put stands under the rear jacking points I use two jacks. First I take off the wheel with the scissor jack. Then I lift the car with a floor jack placing it under the rear subframe, Some floor jacks are flat enough to slide them under the car without having to lift it first.
I would not go under the car if it`s just on stands at the rear.
What a pita of a job. Wish I never started it. Fuel just keeps on leaking. Car has 1/8 of a tank. Are the fuel supposed to snap in on the new fuel filter? Or just screwed in?
The fuel lines have to be screwed in all the way. You screw the filter on the rear nut. Then screw the front (towards the wheel) nut on the fiilter. Be prepared to use a lot of torque because of the rotten threads of the nuts
I really don't want to loosen the nut again. The fuel line that isn't on the bracket, it's the one closest to the right rear wheel of the car. Which is the nut with hardest access. So tomorrow, I'll loosen the fuel filter holder. Open it up, and hopefully it'll give me enough leverage to put the line in the bracket.
I would definitely not pull a line out of the filter again to get it into the bracket. You should be able to pry it in. It might be very brittle though. Mine was broken.
Well, I didn't want to renew the thread. But I can't edit my previous posts.
For anyone doing this job in the future, you don't need to remove the the left rear wheel. Or have the car on Jack stands either.
Only loosen the middle bolt on the fuel filter holder. It's an 8mm. Both filter nuts, at least on my car, are 16mm. The filter side is a 20mm, but a 21mm will do the job. Have stubby and long wrenches. Other than that, nothing else I can add. Thanks to the above posters for the help!
Oh, and fuel filter arrow should point to the left rear wheel.