Fuel Injectors - $1,600!!!!
#41
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Old Mike
I put together this JPG file that shows the various knock sensors available for each of the XJ vin ranges. Click on the image when dropbox webpage opens to get a better view.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwrh13yb24...comparison.jpg
DavidN pointed out in his Knock Sensor replacement DIY thread that the less expensive XJ 4.2 X350 knock sensor can be used in place of the XJ X308 ones.
Jim Lombardi
I put together this JPG file that shows the various knock sensors available for each of the XJ vin ranges. Click on the image when dropbox webpage opens to get a better view.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwrh13yb24...comparison.jpg
DavidN pointed out in his Knock Sensor replacement DIY thread that the less expensive XJ 4.2 X350 knock sensor can be used in place of the XJ X308 ones.
Jim Lombardi
Would it be possible to replace the screw in type on the early 308 witht he later bolt on type by fitting the screwed stud in place?
Million dollar question is whether aforesaid stud is available as a separate item??
#42
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Old Mike
I updated the JPEG file with the aftermarket part numbers and approx current prices for the various xj model vin number ranges:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwrh13yb24...comparison.jpg
Xjay8
A26 Knock Sensor 1998 XJ8 replacement option by purchasing stud & nut parts along with the A27 knock Sensor type:
terrysjag.com website
NRA1268AA stud $1.98
JFN10804B m8 nut $1.08
Posts # 32 & 31
Forum member trying to use A26 knock sensor on A27 engine (he ordered the wrong one for his A27 XJ8):
"The connector is the same which is why I am so confused with the other end. I don't want to make this project harder than it should be, but if it's simple enough to screw out the stud and this fits in there perfectly, then I can do that."
"The "correct" knock sensor fits over a stud that is screwed into the engine. I **believe** that if that stud is backed out, the sensor you have will screw into the resulting hole. But also be sure the connectors are the same."
Post #5 has pictures of both the early sensor installed (the one you have) and later type.
Like Boomer says, it will fit, so no worries. "
Jim Lombardi
I updated the JPEG file with the aftermarket part numbers and approx current prices for the various xj model vin number ranges:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hwrh13yb24...comparison.jpg
Xjay8
A26 Knock Sensor 1998 XJ8 replacement option by purchasing stud & nut parts along with the A27 knock Sensor type:
terrysjag.com website
NRA1268AA stud $1.98
JFN10804B m8 nut $1.08
Posts # 32 & 31
Forum member trying to use A26 knock sensor on A27 engine (he ordered the wrong one for his A27 XJ8):
"The connector is the same which is why I am so confused with the other end. I don't want to make this project harder than it should be, but if it's simple enough to screw out the stud and this fits in there perfectly, then I can do that."
"The "correct" knock sensor fits over a stud that is screwed into the engine. I **believe** that if that stud is backed out, the sensor you have will screw into the resulting hole. But also be sure the connectors are the same."
Post #5 has pictures of both the early sensor installed (the one you have) and later type.
Like Boomer says, it will fit, so no worries. "
Jim Lombardi
Last edited by jimlombardi; 05-05-2013 at 11:34 AM.
#43
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I decided to take out the faulty sensor so I am sure to get the correct replacement --- HOWEVER...
I can't for the life of me get the connector off the t-stat tower. I read the write-up and the guy says to use a bent tool, which is fine, but one would have to know what one is probing for, and I don't!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I can't for the life of me get the connector off the t-stat tower. I read the write-up and the guy says to use a bent tool, which is fine, but one would have to know what one is probing for, and I don't!
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/41873-fuel-injectors-%241-600-a13e069d6455c26736341479226357bc_zps5ec7dc7e.jpg?dateline=1367771342)
Last edited by OldMike; 05-05-2013 at 11:29 AM.
#44
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Old Mike
Look post# 1 in this other thread I created that has DavidN photos (shows the special tool and how to use it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-1-2-a-76815/
Look at the 4th through 10th photos of that connector being removed.
Jim Lombardi
Look post# 1 in this other thread I created that has DavidN photos (shows the special tool and how to use it:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-1-2-a-76815/
Look at the 4th through 10th photos of that connector being removed.
Jim Lombardi
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OldMike (05-05-2013)
#45
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Ok - I got it out! I'll post photos in a minute, just wanted to say thanks again -- I had looked and looked at those photos and couldn't figure out the "trick." I was being overly cautious as well so as not to break anything. Finally, I went to the hardware store and got a piece of brass (all I could find in the "right size") bar and bent the end of it. After probing in the correct spot, it came loose. The rest was a matter of using the wire trick to remove it.
Now at least I know what I had in there!
Here are the photos -- the second one is a close-up of the broken cable sheath -- the wires look ok, but the rubber sheath is cracked open. This wasn't done by me!
Now I need a new one and with all the great help here, I can get it installed as soon as it is delivered.
You guys have been a great help. I can usually do stuff by myself, but when I haven't done or seen it done before, I am extra cautious.
BTW Great tip in the write-up to use grease inside the socket -- first time I've heard of that trick and will definitely use it again!
Also, BTW -- the nut was screwed on so tight I could hardly loosen it with my ratchet! I won't be hefting down on it like that when I install the new one.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/41877-fuel-injectors-%241-600-09f2c0cda349757ad92caf1f2ac9fea4_zps859838a2.jpg?dateline=1367777146)
Now at least I know what I had in there!
Here are the photos -- the second one is a close-up of the broken cable sheath -- the wires look ok, but the rubber sheath is cracked open. This wasn't done by me!
Now I need a new one and with all the great help here, I can get it installed as soon as it is delivered.
You guys have been a great help. I can usually do stuff by myself, but when I haven't done or seen it done before, I am extra cautious.
BTW Great tip in the write-up to use grease inside the socket -- first time I've heard of that trick and will definitely use it again!
Also, BTW -- the nut was screwed on so tight I could hardly loosen it with my ratchet! I won't be hefting down on it like that when I install the new one.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/41877-fuel-injectors-%241-600-09f2c0cda349757ad92caf1f2ac9fea4_zps859838a2.jpg?dateline=1367777146)
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/xj-xj8-xjr-x308-27/41878-fuel-injectors-%241-600-6905a4ff8edefb0351fd395f3442b251_zps311ed919.jpg?dateline=1367777146)
Last edited by OldMike; 05-05-2013 at 01:06 PM.
#46
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Old Mike
I just took this photo of the knock sensor bracket on the thermostat tower. Look at the brass bracket - it has a square hole in it and this is where the knock sensor connector locks on it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m1y4emlqv2...Connection.JPG
Here is a JPEG with photos of both ends of the knock sensor connector:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1apcgxsb9b...r%20photos.jpg
Hope this helps
Jim Lombardi
I just took this photo of the knock sensor bracket on the thermostat tower. Look at the brass bracket - it has a square hole in it and this is where the knock sensor connector locks on it.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m1y4emlqv2...Connection.JPG
Here is a JPEG with photos of both ends of the knock sensor connector:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1apcgxsb9b...r%20photos.jpg
Hope this helps
Jim Lombardi
#47
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Jim - you might've missed my post -- I got it out, finally! Guess I was being too careful.
After getting it out, I decided to tape up the wire and put it back in (you never know!). It took no time at all to maneuver it onto the stud and fish the wire through to the t-stat tower. I hooked it up (but didn't clip it onto the tower!) and started up the car. No restricted performance message until I moved my other car out of the way and started the XJ8 again -- now I have the message again. It was worth a try! Also, the practice putting it in and taking it out was well worth the effort. Now I feel as though I'll have no problem putting a new one in.
Now all I have to do is order one! (edit: have it on order from rockauto.com $26 and change incl shipping)
Thanks a million for all your help.
Mike
After getting it out, I decided to tape up the wire and put it back in (you never know!). It took no time at all to maneuver it onto the stud and fish the wire through to the t-stat tower. I hooked it up (but didn't clip it onto the tower!) and started up the car. No restricted performance message until I moved my other car out of the way and started the XJ8 again -- now I have the message again. It was worth a try! Also, the practice putting it in and taking it out was well worth the effort. Now I feel as though I'll have no problem putting a new one in.
Now all I have to do is order one! (edit: have it on order from rockauto.com $26 and change incl shipping)
Thanks a million for all your help.
Mike
Last edited by OldMike; 05-05-2013 at 02:07 PM.
#48
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Oh what a feeling!!!!
My new knock sensor came in the mail today -- took me about 1/2 hour to get it installed but now I HAVE MY CAR BACK!!!
After installing it, the restricted performance message went away and it drove like a dream!
Sure feels great to have my car back on the road again.
Thanks a million to everyone here who helped me through this ordeal. I ended up paying a lot of money but it was all worth it. I saved tons of money by using the advice and information on this site -- probably close to $2,000 saved!
Thanks again. Sure hope nobody else ever has to go through this kind of thing with their car. It all started because I tried to do something too fast and without the proper tools. I set the process in motion, and I paid for it. Live and learn!
Mike
My new knock sensor came in the mail today -- took me about 1/2 hour to get it installed but now I HAVE MY CAR BACK!!!
After installing it, the restricted performance message went away and it drove like a dream!
Sure feels great to have my car back on the road again.
Thanks a million to everyone here who helped me through this ordeal. I ended up paying a lot of money but it was all worth it. I saved tons of money by using the advice and information on this site -- probably close to $2,000 saved!
Thanks again. Sure hope nobody else ever has to go through this kind of thing with their car. It all started because I tried to do something too fast and without the proper tools. I set the process in motion, and I paid for it. Live and learn!
Mike
#49
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#51
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I have a relative who used to bring her Jaguar to the dealer for oil changes -- then she'd call me and complain about how much it cost. I finally talked her into going to a local mechanic for things like that and she was thrilled. She could never get out of the dealership for under a few hundred dollars. My mechanic changed her oil the other day for $35 - she couldn't believe it!
And to make a senseless post even longer - let me rant about this. Although I don't mind paying a reasonable fee for labor, I'm thinking that "the book" time for jobs on Jaguars is exaggerated a bit. I was quoted 8 hours to replace cam cover gaskets -- seems a bit long to me. I was also quoted 2 hours to replace the washer pump in an S-type -- again, seems a little long to me. The same guy told me that it would've been about an hour of his time to replace the knock sensor that I did myself -- although it did take me that long, that seems like a long time for a skilled mechanic to do the job. But, they have their "book" and they will stick to it!
Again, thanks for all the help. I'm going to need more in the future, but for now I think my car is "on the road again!"
#52
#53
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Lots of folks to send the injectors out to who will "overhaul" them for $20-$30 a pop.*
"overhaul" typically consists of ultra sonic cleaning, flow testing and matching, replacement of screens and seals.
OP's mechanic is lazy and obviously has only his best interest in mind. I suggest a new wrencher who can be trusted
* I recently paid well under $20ea. to overhaul a set of Bosch for my BMW.
"overhaul" typically consists of ultra sonic cleaning, flow testing and matching, replacement of screens and seals.
OP's mechanic is lazy and obviously has only his best interest in mind. I suggest a new wrencher who can be trusted
* I recently paid well under $20ea. to overhaul a set of Bosch for my BMW.
Last edited by ross1; 05-09-2013 at 05:04 PM.
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