I'm looking at repairing fuel lines that drop off the back side of the fuel tank. I've discovered that the whole tank had been replaced before I got the car, I knew it was a repo and I'm guessing PO either tried to FUBAR the fuel system or the swap was done as a preventive measure. Either way I got the first line off and discovered the nipple end of the line has sheared off at the bead, Gasket between tank and bottom plate was twisted and hiding the second line (fuel filter section) so I finally just cut it at the nylon and pulled the tank. I've looked at a variety of options to repair. I'm going to replace both connector ends (tank side) and I'd like to come off those with flexible nylon fuel lines (as I found existing) but bring the nylon around a bit closer to the area of the fuel filter. I know I have to have line rated to handle 90psi which shouldn't be a problem getting. Just interested in ideas or direction taken by others that works well. There's obviously an easier way to do this so tank removal isn't such a bear. I managed to get one line loose working above the diff, and never could see the other due to the gasket being woppy jawed, honestly I'd rather replace the 18" of line I'm thinking about installing than have to get back up in that hole above the diff bell again.

 

I started a fuel pump replacement about a week ago. I discovered in the process that the tank is a replacement and I've experienced a few issues due to the job done that have led to fuel lines that need to be repaired. Here is some information that I never saw in posts reviewed but I believe will be helpful to anyone attempting tank removal or needing to repair fuel lines. This is for a 2001 XJ8 but I imagine info is compatible for other models.
1. Fuel lines at the Tank are 5/16 lines and the 5/16 quick release tool is more than sufficient to remove the line**
** Sufficient in the case that the line going into the tank is straight at least an inch of so. If the line is bent in the last inch of line going into the tank, the tool follows that line and will not depress the springs evenly to remove the line.
2. For those who've never used the quick disconnect tool and aren't quite sure how it works. The tool clips over the line to be removed and is pressed into the fitting. If it is pressed in straight and as deep as it will go (to the bead on the line) it will depress 4 spring clips inside the fitting allowing the bead to pass and the line can be removed. Press the tool into place and leave there, then pull straight back on line to remove - don't try to push on tool while pulling on line other than possibly holding it to the bead until it passes the spring clips.
3. The lines at the tank are 5-6" lengths of 5/16" steel tubing that have a similar length of Nylon fuel line pressed on them (Mine had a rubber hose cover on the length of nylon line). Each section of Nylon line is then pressed to outbound steel lines above differential in the wheel well on rear drivers (right) side.
4. The two lines run parallel, along back of wheel well (one connecting to fuel filter) and then follow frame to front of car.
5. The Fuel Filter line is 5/16" at tank, stepping up to 3/8" at the Nylon line and continuing to fuel filter and front end in 3/8" steel line.
6. The return line is 5/16" at tank and remains 5/16 through Nylon line and remaining steel line.
Pictures show fuel line sections from tank to fuel filter for reference. My return line sheared midway through the bead. The repairs (I'll post pics when I get completed) will replace compatible sections of the line shown using steel and nylon fuel line, and compression fittings (avail in fuel line repair section of most auto supply stores). I have had to order 5/16x3/8 compression union (can't find local)

 

I just had this same thing happen... 9 years later same mistakes. In the off chance you are still around, did you end up.fixing it?