Fuel line and wiring to pump on 98 XJSport
#1
03-03-2014 | 04:22 AM
Fuel line and wiring to pump on 98 XJSport
I know I'm lucky enough to have a '98 XJS 3-2 V8 that always started on the key every day for 12 years. Last week for the 1st time it won't!
I drove the day before and pressed the 'S' button! ( Not used it for some time) Would this affect the pump or carb? Drove home everything was fine parked up in driveway after.
Day after won't start, its turning over very quick but not engaging I think its fuel not arriving.
Need to locate the fuel pump and wiring!
Note!
Had some welding done to inner cill 2 weeks ago for MOT certificate, they had to remove passenger seats and carpet.
Someone said contact switch is located under passenger seat! Anyone know the answer.
I drove the day before and pressed the 'S' button! ( Not used it for some time) Would this affect the pump or carb? Drove home everything was fine parked up in driveway after.
Day after won't start, its turning over very quick but not engaging I think its fuel not arriving.
Need to locate the fuel pump and wiring!
Note!
Had some welding done to inner cill 2 weeks ago for MOT certificate, they had to remove passenger seats and carpet.
Someone said contact switch is located under passenger seat! Anyone know the answer.
#2
03-03-2014 | 06:24 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 3
From: Kent, England
Is it cranking a lot faster than normal? I had something similar on my 4.0 V8 non-sc it's called cylinder wash where any Petrol left unburnt breaks down the oil in the piston rings and the engine looses compression and then won't start even tho there's petrol there the way to fix it is take a few of the spark plugs out and put a little drop of oil into the hole give it a min then try starting again as long as enough pistons have had oil in them it will allow it to catch then the rest will be filled normally you'll get a puff of blue smoke out the back but after a few min it'll be fine and running smoothly again if that's the problem of course :-)
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Gianni (03-04-2014)
#3
03-04-2014 | 03:41 AM
#4
03-06-2014 | 11:43 AM
Thanks Mmutch,
Received this today, and it is much the same as your answer. Mechanic coming tomorrow to do the business.
" I can’t tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, they were being recovered in and we didn’t even let them unload the car, just went over and started them, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advice of how not to do it again. The classic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.*
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.*
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
Best Wishes and Thanks
John Wilson
(Gianni)
Received this today, and it is much the same as your answer. Mechanic coming tomorrow to do the business.
" I can’t tell you how many times 308's do this. I was at Jag from 1998 to 2006. When 308's were new, they were being recovered in and we didn’t even let them unload the car, just went over and started them, revved for a bit to clear out and sent straight back to the customer with a bit of advice of how not to do it again. The classic customer phone call was, I got the car out the garage yesterday to wash it, then put it back, it was fine, then the next day it wouldn't start.
IF IT’S ON COLD START ALWAYS CLEAR IT OUT BEFORE YOU SWITCH OFF.*
Your car is flooded, nothing more, the bores may be worn, but they wont have gone from starting to none starting over night.
What you need to do is simple (and sorry for going over what’s already been covered)
Charge battery so is full, or attach to jump pack or jump vehicle.
Open the bonnet go to the throttle body and hold it on absolute full throttle, (its easy to say floor the accelerator but with slack in the cable, and the full throttle stop be badly adjusted and you wont actually get the injector cut off you want to happen, so doing it under the bonnet can make all the difference in the world). If you have no assistant, make sure you wind the throttle stop under the accelerator pedal right into the floor first, and floor the pedal.*
Have an assistant hold the key in the crank position and tell them no matter what, don’t let go of the key, After about 45 seconds very slowly reduce the throttle position to say 80-90%, you should hear the injectors start clicking (it will be hard over the noise of the starter but should be possible) then modulate between 100% and 80-90% throttle as you hear the engine start to fire.
If you have been cranking for more than say 1 minute 30 secs. Give up and get the plugs out. THEY DO NOT NEED REPLACING, just drying and cleaning. Best thing is a gas soldering iron to burn the fuel off, but if you have not got one, blowing on them should be enough. With the plugs out you want an oil can and 2 squirts in each bore. About 50ml of oil, too little and it wont work, to much and you will be smoking for a week. Before you put the plugs back in, just flick the key so it turns over for 2 to 3 secs. Wipes the oil into the cylinder walls you see, and if you put too much in, fires the residue out the top rather than hydraulicing the engine.
Then plugs back in and repeat the full throttle start up as above. I have never failed to get one going like this. If it doesn't work, then check for spark but I'm sure it will.
And it will smoke like mad when it fires, just keep the revs up, say 3000rpm for a minute. And then go for a blast to clear it out, try to do this on a deserted road, or you will scare innocent motorist and get in trouble with the Law."
Best Wishes and Thanks
John Wilson
(Gianni)
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