Fuel pump fuse
#2
Whole story
Car drove great on Sunday...No issues. On monday morning, car won't start. Cranks over fine. Tuesday I sprayed starting fluid into the intake and the car started, ran for a couple of seconds then died. Today I checked all of the fuses and they were all good. I checked to see if I had any voltage across the fuel pump fuse and there was zero at the fuse box. I jumped across from the fuse next to the fuel pump fuse and still won't start. Any suggestions
#4
yes-
The fuel pump fuse is on the downstream side of the fuel pump relay. So, unless you are cranking and getting pulses from the CKPS, you will not have any voltage on either side of the fuse after the prime short run duration as you turn the key.
There is a fuel pressure test port at the front of the left fuel injector rail. Autozone or Advance will lend a fuel pressure test guage. Check for 38 to 40 psi or so.
Ao, you can check the voltage while someone else trys to crank. You should get a pulse for a few seconds.
If you have voltage to the pump, and no pressure, then I am afraid you face removal of the fuel tank, which is a PITA. Check the archives, or check back for pointers for that.
And one more suggestion, since you asked. Be very careful jumpering things on this car without looking at or understanding the schematic. A little slip can ruin a module, and cost some big $.
The fuel pump fuse is on the downstream side of the fuel pump relay. So, unless you are cranking and getting pulses from the CKPS, you will not have any voltage on either side of the fuse after the prime short run duration as you turn the key.
There is a fuel pressure test port at the front of the left fuel injector rail. Autozone or Advance will lend a fuel pressure test guage. Check for 38 to 40 psi or so.
Ao, you can check the voltage while someone else trys to crank. You should get a pulse for a few seconds.
If you have voltage to the pump, and no pressure, then I am afraid you face removal of the fuel tank, which is a PITA. Check the archives, or check back for pointers for that.
And one more suggestion, since you asked. Be very careful jumpering things on this car without looking at or understanding the schematic. A little slip can ruin a module, and cost some big $.
Last edited by sparkenzap; 09-21-2011 at 05:25 PM.
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EngineerReeves (09-21-2011)
#7
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#8
#9
I remember specifically that it was discussed at jag-lovers, but I went out of my way to forget it. I think it is a stupid idea!
I have found that loosening the front of the rear suspension subframe and removing the rear mounts allows you to lower the subframe to get your whole hand up to the tank lines, and does not reqire special jacks or lifts to re-position on refit.
I have found that loosening the front of the rear suspension subframe and removing the rear mounts allows you to lower the subframe to get your whole hand up to the tank lines, and does not reqire special jacks or lifts to re-position on refit.
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