Fuel pump replacement technique
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hallo all, been a while since I have visited....:-)
Just a quick post to tell you of a job I did today...did a lot of research on it first (on here), think I have found a bot of a work around which might help someone?
Jag has been laid up outside for a couple of months, not run it in the meantime. Tried to start her up after charging the inevitable flat battery....turned over well enough but not firing. Checked for fuel, no pressure at the injection manifold.
Did all the fault finding on the fuel fuses and relays - concluded that both pumps had failed. I thought this was a little odd, but it could have been that one of the pumps had failed previously....
Anyhow, got some replacement pumps and set about removing the fuel tank.
As is found in many posts in this forum, the 2 fuel pipes above the axle simply would not disconnect. I tried everything but they simply would not budge - probably something to do with it being on the driveway in the cold and rain I guess....:-)
So I decided to see just how far I could manoeuvre the tank with the pipes still connected - very mindful of the damage that many people have experienced whilst doing this.
Conclusion - it is possible to replace the pumps with the tank pulled out just enough to be able to struggle furiously looking and poking with a long screwdriver through the fuel sender hole and reaching through the evaporator flange hole with various long reach tools. You can even get your hand in if you really ignore the pain. It does really test your patience, and will result in considerable skin abrasions/slicing etc. Took me about 8 hours all in.
You need to pull out the right hand side of the tank until about half of the top hole is beyond the boot lid seal landing, also pop the filler out on the left hand side - it needs to come back about 3 inches that side.
Tip - be careful when pulling the tank backwards - Jaguar very kindly left the tank external flanges with sharp edges that would do razor wire proud. Use thick gloves!!! And watch that the looms are clear as the tank moves backwards.
In all, I would suggest that if you need to change your pumps and you can disconnect your fuel lines, do it that way and remove the tank completely. However if you are stuck as I was and want to learn how to decorate your hallway through the letterbox, try my technique.
Car is now running sweet as :-)
Checked the pipes underneath after reassembly - they are absolutely fine.
Just a quick post to tell you of a job I did today...did a lot of research on it first (on here), think I have found a bot of a work around which might help someone?
Jag has been laid up outside for a couple of months, not run it in the meantime. Tried to start her up after charging the inevitable flat battery....turned over well enough but not firing. Checked for fuel, no pressure at the injection manifold.
Did all the fault finding on the fuel fuses and relays - concluded that both pumps had failed. I thought this was a little odd, but it could have been that one of the pumps had failed previously....
Anyhow, got some replacement pumps and set about removing the fuel tank.
As is found in many posts in this forum, the 2 fuel pipes above the axle simply would not disconnect. I tried everything but they simply would not budge - probably something to do with it being on the driveway in the cold and rain I guess....:-)
So I decided to see just how far I could manoeuvre the tank with the pipes still connected - very mindful of the damage that many people have experienced whilst doing this.
Conclusion - it is possible to replace the pumps with the tank pulled out just enough to be able to struggle furiously looking and poking with a long screwdriver through the fuel sender hole and reaching through the evaporator flange hole with various long reach tools. You can even get your hand in if you really ignore the pain. It does really test your patience, and will result in considerable skin abrasions/slicing etc. Took me about 8 hours all in.
You need to pull out the right hand side of the tank until about half of the top hole is beyond the boot lid seal landing, also pop the filler out on the left hand side - it needs to come back about 3 inches that side.
Tip - be careful when pulling the tank backwards - Jaguar very kindly left the tank external flanges with sharp edges that would do razor wire proud. Use thick gloves!!! And watch that the looms are clear as the tank moves backwards.
In all, I would suggest that if you need to change your pumps and you can disconnect your fuel lines, do it that way and remove the tank completely. However if you are stuck as I was and want to learn how to decorate your hallway through the letterbox, try my technique.
Car is now running sweet as :-)
Checked the pipes underneath after reassembly - they are absolutely fine.
The following users liked this post:
SNG Barratt USA (12-19-2013)
#2
#3
#4
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wonder if there is any benefit in fitting a high performance pump(s)? Unless you get the ecu to allow more fuel in through longer duration at the injectors that is? or increased boost if supercharged....Otherwise no matter how good the pump is, the fuel delivered will always be regulated by the fuel pressure regulator?
Of course, if the OEM pumps are not man enough to deliver and maintain fuel pressure in stock tune then hi-po pumps would make a difference?
Of course, if the OEM pumps are not man enough to deliver and maintain fuel pressure in stock tune then hi-po pumps would make a difference?
#5
#6
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)