I did the fuel pump swap on my 98 XJR after Both pumps failed simultaneously from sitting. It was much easier to cut the body panel out near the rear speakers in which I layed a cheap welding blanket over the tank prior to cutting. I had the pumps out of the tank in 30 minutes from start. During diagnostics I found that the dual pump setup is for increased volume once the car reaches 3000 rpm. At start up the S/C or secondary pump energized for 1 second to load the fuel line pressure. At crank and startup the primary pump fires and runs the car until you reach 3000 then the S/C pump kicks in to increase fuel volume under boost. They are both connected via a “T” fitting inside the tank. If you use one HV pump you won’t have the initial kick with key on as you will have to wire it to the primary pump relay and that won’t run until you’re already cranking.
As far as the people saying “OMG I would never cut the back panel” well # 1 you will NEVER see the hole. # 2 it won’t decrease any structural integrity for body # 3 there won’t be any outside road noise # 4 you’ll have the entire job done in an hour or less I spent an hour just trying to get to the fuel lines underneath and I have an automotive lift I was about to pull the rear end before watching a video on cutting the back paneling out. Also I did not save or hinge or rivet that piece back in as it does absolutely nothin... hope this helps

 

Hi, I was wondering what video you watched in order to do this maneuver?

 

I cannot remember exactly where I watched the video. This video attached shows a guy moving the tank without removing the lines. I'm not sure how he only managed to break only one part but the idea is to not break anything (cutting is modifying not breaking). At 1:55 he shows the back panel exposed from the seats being out. What I did was looked through the hole at the top of the tank and used a sharpie to trace where I wanted to cut the panel. I made the hole a little larger to give room for just in case. Then I put a welding blanket over the tank for the sparks. Cut the hole out and discard you don't need it for anything else. Once you remove the lock ring there's only the electrical wires going to the pumps and an emissions valve on top. Be careful to take your time removing the vent hoses so as not to break the vent valve. Fuel does not go through the top. I used a 1/4 in ratchet and extension to remove the brackets holding the individual fuel pumps down. Keep an extendable magnet handy in case you drop the bolt into the tank. You can pull out the pumps by the wire. If you have a lot of fuel in the tank you will need to have some long rubber gloves as you will need to use your hand to re align new pumps in their respective brackets.
. To Cut the hole I used a 4" angle grinder with a thin cut off blade. It makes a lot of sparks and metal dust so while I was cutting my son kept the shop vac hose next to the blade and traveled along with my cut.

https://youtu.be/2vULMim6OZc

 

 

That is factory original seam sealer. Picture is from my 2000 XK8.

 

Several years ago I replaced the fuel pump in my 2001 XK8 convertible and I decided not to cut a hole in the rear shelf. Access to do that is crap anyway and I would risk breaking the rear window. The whole idea just didn't appeal to me. I removed the fuel tank through the trunk and I removed the rear suspension to get access to the fuel lines on the bottom of the tank. It really wasn't that bad. I prefer to disassemble and get to know parts of the car rather than cut and patch to access what I needed. I guess everyone has a different philosophy on that.
The whole job was done in about 6 or 7 hours and when I was done the car was exactly as Jaguar designed it with no modifications, but the time wasn't a factor. When I work on my XK8, I'm not looking at the clock. I just want the best result possible.
When cutting original sheet metal near the fuel tank, consider that you might be compromising a designed barrier between fuel and occupants. Remember the Ford Pinto? Just a thought... I don't have all the engineering data nor do I want it. I'll just preserve what Jaguar built to the greatest extent of my ability, and, I believe, in doing so preserve the value, safety, and performance of my car.

 

You can undo the straps that hold tank in place and pull the tank into the trunk without undoing fuel lines just be careful not to much just enough to access top of tank otherwise you could stretch lines save a lot of time and energy. do it with as less gas in tank as possible while you are at it change fuel filter after pump removal

 

One of mine (think the return line) were also pinched from having been removed incorrectly at some point in the past, I was lucky to get one at the pick'n'pull, and that mine held out until then.

 

I just removed the line from the fuel filter and siphon thru there..

 

I'm pretty sure you can only do this with the replacement turbine type pumps. This installation may be the turbine type because it's obviously not factory.
I believe the OEMs are all vane types which are nearly positive displacement which won't pass fuel (except minute vane leakage) if they won't turn.

 

I have a '93 Coupe and I agree there are a few ways to get at the fuel pump.. I lean to the in-cab method. Cutting an access hole is relatively easy with a small grinding wheel from Harbor Freight (about $15.00) Covering the hole with sealer a metal plate and some fasteners is a snap. I do have a problem with the brake light, which is dead center over the pump. I don't know how Jaguar set the lamp housing. was it glued to the window or fastened to the pan. I would appreciate input on the brake light removal.
Also in sliding the tank rearward to get to the pump sounds easy except if you have to get to the filler assembly. That appears to be a substantial job. If you don't have to deal with the filler moving the tank is an easy method. and maybe the easiest!

 

The rear brake light is held onto the glass with some slide fittings. There are metal tabs glued to the glass, and the light assembly slides onto those, much like the rearview mirror is set up.

If I remember right clearing the filler assembly isn't that difficult, the filler surround is basically a rubber grommet that pries off the filler neck and that's it, just have to mind the exposed neck when pulling/reinstalling the tank, esp. the wires that go around it.

 

Thanks Nilanium
If the filler connection removal is that easy, there is no reason to go to the trouble of the in-cab entry. The in-cab entry is a cramped location and creates a lot of metal dust in grinding So I guess, from the top of my head, the procedure to move the tank is as follows.
1. Remove the Spare tire
2. Disconnect battery and remove..(See note below)
3. Remove the the carpet covering
4. unfasten the filler
5. unfasten the straps
6 unfasten electric lines
7.Wiggle tank rearward to expose fuel pump entry
This is a very simplistic description, perhaps it should be edited or a previously done one referenced or brought forward.

It's important to note that gasoline fumes are heavier than air and will literally pour out of the top of the open tank and down the side of the car to the floor. A flame or spark will ignite the fumes and the flame front will go back to the automobile gas tank. That is why natural gas water heaters in garages are always elevated because parked cars can pour fumes to the floor (particularly carburated cars)

 

Before pulling the tank, you will need to undo the fuel lines which are located above the rear subframe towards the pass (right) side. These are the source of pain for many people, it's pretty difficult to get to them without lowering the subframe, at least slightly. That may sound intimidating, but it's a lot easier than you may think. There's also been a few creative solutions for long-reach disconnect tools to avoid having to drop the subframe.

Search the x308 forums for fuel tank removal for more advice on that. There's a few good threads out there, here's one https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-reach-198075/ I had a few other good threads saved but can't access those bookmarks at the moment...

When I did my fuel tank I had the subframe completely out for other work at the same time (fuel return line replacement, diff work) so it was less of an issue then.

 

I'm back to the in-cab approach. Frankly I'm too old to slide under cars and I don't like the idea of disturbing fuel lines that detach oddly (rather than a screw fitting) and lastly gasoline dripping or pouring onto my body.(Don't want to be a living Ronson or Bic advertisement!) The thing I like about the in-cab approach is that once you do it, cut the entrance to the pump, from then on it is a simple procedure to install a new pump
Good talking with you. You provided good info!

 

So I had my fuel pump replaced in my 1991 jaguar xj6 and the mechanic called me to say that it was done but my car still wouldnt start only turn over so I needed a whole new fuel system because of gunk in the tank, my question is is that true or is he just being lazy ?[can Anything else be done? QUOTE=dsnyder586;1301727]Hi All,

My sons new free XJ8 is in the process of getting ready to be smogged and registered, so I was driving it to get past the emissions tests. I had stopped at a business and when I came out- no start situation. It kept trying to catch, but would not actually kick and run. Time for the tow truck.

I won't bore you with the details of the troubleshooting steps, but I followed the no-start sticky and came to my conclusion below:

After pressing the schrader valve a few times, it seemed that indeed the pump had failed. I did some research online and decided to go with the Airtex pump (E2471) It did not come with a strainer, so I reused the old one, which looked fine.

Here are the steps I covered to do the job:

WARNING- You are working near gasoline. The fumes can and will ignite with spark or flame. I repeat, gasoline fumes will ignite with spark or flame. Work slowly and with a helper if possible, so that if there is a situation, you are not alone. Also, use a well ventilated area, I worked outside with the doors and boot opened.

1. Remove both rear seats
2. Remove parcel shelf, foam insulation and subwoofer
3. Remove trunk (boot) carpet from tank and wheel wells and unplug all of the electrical connectors at the top of the tank
4. With a dremel, I used a cutting wheel (well, more like 8) to cut away a portion of the parcel tray metal- it looked similar to this-


My cut did not get as close to the edge towards the front of the car, which was a mistake- I had a VERY difficult time getting to one of the hoses and pulling it off, much less putting it back on.

5. Remove hoses- this is a bit difficult as they have been there for a long time- patience is key here. You may have to do this step after #6, I did.
6. Gently hammer the lock ring off of the collar
7. Carefully pull out the unit that the hoses all attached to-


My car has the sending unit in the middle of the rear of the tank, so yours may be different.

8. Unplug small connector that goes to the fuel pump
9. You will now be able to look down and see the pump and the small bolt that holds the bracket down.
10. Unbolt the bracket and pull the pump up- grab the bolt before it falls into tha tank. (consider using a 1/4 inch ratchet and extensions along with a wobble or universal to reach it and get a good bite.
11. Twist and pull the pump until you can get it out enough to loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the pump.
12. Remove the pump
13. Pull the pump from the bracket and put the new one in- it may not be a perfect fit with the new pump and the old rubber isolaters, but hey, we aren't using a factory pump now are we?
14. Put strainer on new pump that is in the bracket
15. installation is the opposite of removal
16. i attached the fuel pressure tester and turned the key to the on position- BAM! Pressure was good again!

This took me about 3 hours, start to finish- I took my time and put everything back nicely so you could not tell I had been in there.

SOMETHING INTERESTING- the fans were coming on at about 160f and the car would not fully warm up prior to the pump change- it warms up nicely now and sits between 196f and 204f all day long.

My hypothesis is that the current pull of a dying fuel pump threw something off and was causing incorrect readings of the engine temp.

As always, let me know if I missed anything- It was not the most difficult job in the world, I would compare it to replacing an intake manifold in terms of time and difficulty.

We really should have some kind of scale of difficulty here on Jaguar forums- 1 being operate the car, 50 being valley hoses and 100 being rebuilding of an engine. I'll call this one a 38.[/QUOTE]