any tips to make disconnecting the lines from tank above rear axle any easier ... like how to get to when it is hard to see up there?? Is there one or two lines to disconnect at tank....return line and supply line is all I could see. Jag sure screwed up in the placement of lines for those who like to fix themselves. thanks.

 

I just cut one of mine and managed to disconnect the other, I figured i new short line wouldn't hurt - although the factory tool I saw on the Jaguar disc would have made it a lot faster.

Once you have the two straps and lines disconnected, its just a matter of taking the filler neck rubber down. Disconnect the sender/pump loom, and rock the tank from the top towards you, it should come out easy then.
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CRF450X

 

You might take a look at post #14 in this thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=31160 , which describes one way to attack the job.

Good luck!

 

It may be a little late to answer your thread, but I just came across it. I had to remove the tank in my 98 VP twice, once for a pump failure and subsequently for a harness failure. Its much easier to just unbolt and lower the rear suspension which isn't that difficult if you just do it to start with. Then you will have access to the almost impossible to disconect fittings. Use Ford fuel line tools. The pump cannot be accesed unless the lines are disconected. Good luck.

 

This is for an XK8 but might help http://www.jagrepair.com/FuelPumpReplacement2000xk8.htm

 

I to am a little late w/ this posting, but it may help others.. I just did my tank in my XJ, and after fumbling w/ the two lines on the underside, i figured id try to remove the 8 bolts that hold the rear to the frame. I didnt remove the bolts towards the rear on that control arm thingie... The rear suspension then just kinda hung there w/o supports. I also removed the ebrake cable via the adjuster.... This gave me another few inches.. enough to get my hands in there (theyre kinda big hands) and remove the lines (w/ the aid of an autozone a/c - fuel line removal kit).

I spent about 4 hours tryin to get at those lines... After I removed the bolts, they were out in a matter of minutes. So had I done that from the start, it would have been an hour job instead of a 5 hour job. Hope this helps.

I dont know if it has any effect on the alignment.... from what I saw, its not related. Could be wrong. I need one anyways.

 

I think this may help me with my problem (which I assume) is a fuel pump issue.
I hope... I really hope that I dont have to take out another in tank pump again.

Cheers

 

Looks like I have a couple of fuel pumps to replace. Anyone have experience with not disconnecting the bottom two fuel lines that go into the bottom of the tank? Removing those lines sounds like a real pain... Not to mention I'm really not in a position to jack up the car given the slant of the driveway (can't move it for obvious reasons). I have read one account in this thread of causing damage to those lines. Anyone do this successfully without damage?

 

I have done just about every possible thing to a car (swapped engines, replaced tranny's, differentials, etc). For some reason, i hope to god that i don't ever have to replace a jaguar fuel pump again. I don't think there is any other way to pull the tank without removing those fuel lines. They are on there with a special clip that requires a fuel line removal tool that you need to push in rather than pull out. skinny and long arms are a must. If i were to do this again, i would just drop the subframe which shouldn't take more than 45 minutes with the proper tools and help. Removing those lines took me nearly 2 hours and my abs were sore for about a week. good luck

 

I find it hard to believe that there is no access hatch in the trunk of the car to allow access to the top of the fuel tank to service the pump

 

you could also possibly cut a hole in the rear deck, but you're gonna need some long, skinny arms to have success. Drop the rear as i did. Much easier.

 

Ok, thought I would give an update to what I did. I wasn't in a position to drop the rear end due to where my tow truck driver parked the car. Additionally my driveway is on a slant and I can really only get one of the rear wheels off the ground at a time. Additionally I wasn't interested in cutting a giant whole in my rear package shelf's sheet metal to get at the top of the gas tank.

I really stuggled to get the fuel lines disconnected. I bought a few different quick disconnect tools but didn't have much luck getting the lines to release. I had a hunch that maybee the neck of the quick disconnect tools may not be long enough or they were right on the edge of being long enough.... I decided to fabricate a tool with a longer neck and one that would be easier to push on. Once I had the tool in hand it was a matter of minutes to get the lines off (by that time I knew exactly where to route my arms and hands <yes they are long and skinny>... additionally i used a pull down stap with hook so i could easily pull on the line to see if it was disengaged).

Here is what you need:
3/8" OD - Metal (copper with chrome plate) toliet connector - Home Depot
Dremel Tool - With cut off wheel and grinding bits
Time - 45mins

 

Hi,
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-81664/page4/ Post #71 shows how to access the fuel pump by cutting an access hole in the parcel shelf metal work. He used a wet blanket over the tank while cutting, unless there is a leak in the tank this would appear to be a safe enough method. Once the access hole is cut out getting at and changing the pump is easy, well, it's got to be easier than lying under 2 tons of car trying to undo "Quick release fittings".

Should my pump ever fail I will try this method first.

 

I was going to do my 95 xj6 the same way but found an unexpected wire bundle. Be sure you do not have a wire bundle under the shelf before you cut.

 

When I had my X308 XJR I had to get the tank out to replace the primary fuel pump. It ceased up just after a 3000 mile tour across Europe. Which was lucky.

It explained why I wasn't getting full power until the engine hit 3.5K revs or so, this is when the 2nd pump cuts in.

I bought a fuel line/ air conditioning disconnect tool set. They're little plastic clips that snap over the fuel lines and push into the tank to release.

Google "Lisle 37000 Air Conditioning/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool" to find the tool set I used.

I put the rear of the car on axle stands. And then slid in underneath with my feet stick out the back of the car. I was able to put my hand up around the differential and reach the pipes and disconnect them with ease.

The rest of the work was inside the boot to remove the tank. I cant remember if I actually got the tank out completely, but I was able to move it enough to swap the pump and filters and clean the inside.

 

You 'da man! I spent the better part of the weekend trying to get my left side line loose and this worked like a charm, documented here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1143034

My situation was just like hispeed42 (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e2/#post432567) and the extra depth of this tool got around that without issue.

Once I fabbed the tool, the line was out in under 5 minutes. It was less than an hour start to finish. That tool is perfectly sized. Many thanks for the detailed pics with dimensions. Homedepot or even the Mom and Pop hardware stores around me don't carry the toilet hard lines anymore, but I found it at Lowes: Shop Watts 20-in Copper Toilet Supply Line at Lowes.com .

-Mike

 

Mike-

I'm really glad to hear the tool worked for you. Your appreciation is also very valued and comes at good time. I have had some not so fun recent life events and hearing that something I did in the past has helped someone today is really meaningful.

Thx!

 

Found this at Home Depot. It is to the far left of the braided steel toilet lines. The workers said they did not carry it. I made the tool yesterday, going to use it in a few minutes. If someone needs it let me know. Best to go to my website and contact me from there.

 

I hope getting the lines undone went smoothly! They are a real PIA!

 

Hi. I went through many threads here and I am unsure about one thing. I see that there is possible to replace fuel pumps with fuel tank slightly pulled out inside the trunk just to get enough room to open top lid and get access to the pumps. What I do not understand is if you still MUST to disconnect two bottom fuel pipes/hoses or you can keep them connected while pulling/rotating the fuel tank to the trunk?