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Greetings everybody....haven't been on here for a while.
I have owned my car for 13 years and it's going well with 216,000 klm on the clock.
Age is creeping up with both of us....I am 71 years and blind in the right eye but I can still do most things ;o))
The starter motor had begun to get a bit finicky at start up and I have read all the postings regards starter removal on these.
After removing oil filter, I can see the back cover of the solenoid chamber and it's almost impossible to see anything else, let alone get ones hand in there even to undo the starter cable....be aware this is a RHD car so the steering box attached to the rack makes life awkward.
Brightknight's posting from 2012 is enlightening and he makes it sound so simple but I spent a couple of hours under there trying to work out the best way of doing this job.
I have gone though all the electrical path associated with the starter and all is OK....even replace the relay to make sure....the battery is only 12 months old and is fully charged showing 13.2 volts
Anybody with experience of this procedure will be very helpful with their ideas.
Here is web link to pics of progress so far:
Hi Max, have you reviewed these instructions from a Jim Lombardi post, also from 2012 (the link is the one you reference with Brighknight)...
I included the attached PDF because it has pictures along with the description as Jim shows. Thing is, they don't show the frame, rack, oil filter in the way.
Open the engine compartment and fit paintwork protection sheets.
Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the battery cover.
Place the vehicle on a ramp.
Working from below the vehicle, remove the steering rack for access.
Disconnect the starter motor main terminal. Reposition the rubber boot from the main terminal. Remove the nut from the starter motor main terminal. Disconnect the main cable from the terminal.
Disconnect the starter motor solenoid terminal. Reposition the rubber boot from the terminal. Remove the nut from the solenoid terminal. Disconnect the cable from the terminal.
Remove the starter motor securing bolts. Remove the upper securing bolt. Preferably, use a short 13 mm spanner or a Snap On Half Moon spanner CMX1113 to initially loosen the bolt. (Refer to the next step). Remove the lower securing bolt. Carefully remove the starter motor.
The upper bolt may be removed (after loosening) using a 3/8 square drive 13 mm socket, extensions and U.J as shown.
Installation
Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the starter motor securing bolts to 35-48 Nm.
Refit the steering rack as detailed in Operation 57.10.01. Refill the reservoir with the recommended fluid and bleed the steering system.
Lower the ramp. Remove the protection sheets and close the engine compartment cover.
Connect the battery and fit the battery cover. Reset the radio information and the clock.
There is also a PDF file - Starter Motor R&I in another forum thread:
**Removal of the steering rack seems to be a must for your scenario (RHD). So here's a thread, again from Jim, on its removal and links for the reason your having your issue... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ack-r-i-69421/
This looks like its turning into a starter motor replacement, rack and toe check while your there. I heavily suggest lots of comforting pets for your assistant you have pictured.
Hahahaa....yes, Kirov is overseeing the operation.
High Horse...yes, I have reviewed everything I can get my hands on and it makes it look so simple....which it's not!
Unless I'm missing something.
I climbed back under yesterday to revue the situation and decided to clean up the earth strap that runs from chassis to bell housing and found that the chassis end was badly corroded and the bell housing bolt wasn't tight so, I removed said strap to investigate and tested it's resistance which seemed to be OK so, I cleaned it all up, cleaned the mounting area on chassis back to clean metal, smeared a little di-electric grease and bolted everything back up after cleaning the bolts.
Tomorrow, I will investigate the false firewall + cables and their fixings and will change the relay as a matter of course and see if any change,
Maxwell
Advancing further on after a little investigation, I have found that the starter motor is manufactured by Nippon Denso Model No, 228-000 5092 and I have put up some pics on my PBase site depicting the type and direction that is needed to apply the 13mm socket plus extensions to access the bolts.
The left side is straight forward but you have to operate blind on the right side but it gives you an indication of the position and angle of attack for the bolt
I have yet to try this approach but am working on it....can't rush into these things ;o))
A bit more investigation and going through the entire power line from the boot/trunk forward to bus link and power boxes, cleaning everything with spray electronic cleaner/lubricant and di-electric grease....hopefully this should improve things...or at least remove them from the suspect list.
I removed a stater last night, with the block sitting on an engine stand. ...you have my deepest sympathys doing this on the car.
For the upper bolt, i used a 1/4" socket set (Teng Tools), a combination of the long and short extension was the perfect length to get in between the starter and block with the ratchet on the end. Once they were broke loose then could be unscrewed by hand.
With the two bolts removed the starter took a bit of persuasion with a rubber mallet to break it free, was a snug fit.
I removed a starter last night, with the block sitting on an engine stand. ...you have my deepest sympathy's doing this on the car.
For the upper bolt, I used a 1/4" socket set (Teng Tools), a combination of the long and short extension was the perfect length to get in between the starter and block with the ratchet on the end. Once they were broke loose they could be unscrewed by hand.
With the two bolts removed the starter took a bit of persuasion with a rubber mallet to break it free, was a snug fit .
Hello Andmars....thanks for your reply, most enlightening ;o)
Yes, I think it's going to be a bit of a fight before JJ will stop resisting and give up part of himself ;o))
When you had to use the rubber mallet did you notice if there was much corrosion on the mounting flanges?
Not only the bolt face but where it goes through bell housing....as this I guess would make all the difference with removal.
I need to set up a light source so I can see with a small mirror where to guide the socket.
I have marked on pics of the motor, the direction that the socket and extensions need to take, keeping them parallel to the line of the motor.
Would 3/8" socket and extensions fit ok?
I also have another thought.....(getting into dangerous territory here) I am wondering if the solenoid cover could be removed insitu and solenoid and contacts could be replaced without removing the entire starter motor?
It looks doe able as both side side contact plate screws can be reached
Any thoughts? ;o)
Had a look at the starter tonight and tore it apart. You are right, remove the three nuts on the end and the cover pops off. There is a plunger that pulls out with a spring, then the two contacts to engage the motor are right there in front of you easy to get at
.
Removing the two screws and bolts on the motor side will let the entire motor cartridge come off the unit, which to be honest may be the easier way to get the entire unit off the car.
Sorry i forgot take a pic inside the solonid unit.
Had a look at the starter tonight and tore it apart. You are right, remove the three nuts on the end and the cover pops off. There is a plunger that pulls out with a spring, then the two contacts to engage the motor are right there in front of you easy to get at
.
Removing the two screws and bolts on the motor side will let the entire motor cartridge come off the unit, which to be honest may be the easier way to get the entire unit off the car.
Sorry i forgot take a pic inside the solonid unit.
Andmars...you've lost me when you say take the TWO bolts of motor side will allow entire unit to come free....??
I can see that yes the solenoid plunger and contacts should just come straight out....but are you referring to entire starter removal?
The motor part of the starter motor is removed by the two small 8mm bolts. Its the single unit with the windings and brushes etc. Basically as the photos show, all that remains of the starter motor is the gear drive and solonoid section. My point is removing it gives much better access to the upper 13mm bolt holding the unit to the engine block.
The motor part of the starter motor is removed by the two small 8mm bolts.
Its the single unit with the windings and brushes etc.
Basically as the photos show, all that remains of the starter motor is the gear drive and solenoid section.
My point is removing it gives much better access to the upper 13mm bolt holding the unit to the engine block.
Ah...thanks for that explanation...it makes it much clearer.
So, you reckon the motor section will come out as one piece....the reason I ask is because for some reason none of the jagforums pics will show up on my screen....perhaps because i am still using WXP111?
I can see where you're coming from and it looks doable insitu.
Did it take much effort to crack off the 13 mm bolts?
That's why I asked if 3/8 socket and extensions would fit as i have a couple of good breaker bars in that size.
12-07-2019, 07:34 PM
Getting the starter out on '98 XJ8
