Intro post here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...1/#post2728706

After getting the p1260 cleared I replaced the fuel pumps and it fired up.
Took it for a short test drive to the gas station and no real issues.

No resticted performance after replacing pumps and topping up the coolant.

There are rear lights out and there is a check engine light. I think it is going to need coils and plugs as when it was cold there was a little bit of a rough idle along with an SRS light.
I think my autel is a bit too new to talk to the ECU as I cant get it to read it or the SRS but I can other modules in the car.

 

And this is one of your rescued Jaguars? That is wonderful to hear. It is such a shame
when owners of these beautiful cars let them go when so little is requited to bring them
back to life. However....That may not ALWAYS be the case.

 

This is the 2000 xjr.

A little more info.

The plate on the car has tags from 2015. The date code on the tires is from 2013. And paperwork in the glove box shows 2014. So, I am guessing that this thing started sitting or not being driven much back in 2015-ish. From there I don’t know exactly how it got to the shop where I got it from, but they had been trying to fix it because it was intermittently going into performance restricted until it wouldn’t start. Then it came to me before they were going to scrap it.

Status Update:

I did have my son go out and start it for me the next day and got the traction control not available performance restricted. I did run into someone like this when I was doing quick and dirty research on this that I believe said it could be something with the abs.

It runs a touch rough when cold so plugs and likely coils at the same time are in the future.

The front shock bushings/mount (the part in the engine bay) are toast. one is almost completely gone, and the other has turned to goo.

Rear shocks are toast. Almost able to get the rear to hop.

At some time around 2009 they removed the cd changer, amp, and factory head unit and installed the most useless media receiver head unit I have ever seen. Radio and sub only. No Bluetooth or hd radio. There is some sketchy looking wiring in the fuse box area rear left I am guessing bypassing the factory wiring and patching into the wires that run to the speakers.

Transmission shifts great cruising and on power. After it got to temp which was rock solid in the middle of the gauge, we ran it out to make sure it wouldn’t go into limp mode. Only thing we observed is if its broke traction on a loose surface like gravel the traction control kicked in and limited power/throttle response until you turned the car off and back on. That may tie into the issue noted above. The engine does not sound like a box for bolts rolling down a flight of stairs, so I am guessing the timing set has either been done or is in good shape. I can pull the valve cover when doing the plugs to confirm with an endoscope but I am guessing the former rather than the latter based on 148k on the clock and it not sounding like the valves and pistons have had a forbidden rendezvous.

I have ordered a used in good shape taillight for the rear left since it is cracked and the likely point of ingress of the tiny bit of water I have seen in the trunk.

All in all, I am about $650 in the car, and I drove it 15 miles. So not too bad so far.....

 

Don’t toss out the coils if they’re Denso’s. Use only the NGK Iridium plugs. Before you replace the plugs, get a can of brake cleaner and remove the MAF sensor, look up inside the tube with a strong light. Those little resistors (???) might appear fuzzy. Douse it with the brake cleaner and blow it out throughly with compressed air. If that MAF is dirty, it’ll run rough.

 

BTW, show us a pic or 2 of the car that you saved. Don’t worry if it doesn’t look showroom new.

 

There are some in the post linked in the first post of this thread.

 

I have a few in the intro thread. Don't want to use up extra space on the server with the same pics. Looks the same except the rear seat is out and I opened up the subwoofer hole to access the evap flange to replace the pumps.

1 because I have had no end of problems with those quick disco fittings exploding due to age.

2 because I am recovering from a transplant in my knee(yes I am 37, yes it is weird) and I have many many issues getting down/ under.

I promise I will make it nice.

Here is a new video. I have the ngk 7866 plugs and uro front shock mounts on the way from rock auto.


Here is a new video
Here are the ecm codes I had earlier today




The relay went away again with cleaning the contacts and adjusting the legs for better contact. But if it comes back again I am replacing it with a Hella 007791011 it should carry the amps n3eded and I have had good luck with them. Amazon link


Let me get it va k together and give it a good wash and i will do a photo shoot.

 

Please put your vehicle info in your signature, this way we don't have to chase it in the thread if you posted it. Plus a country of residence helps, there are different issues and engine types for different countries. In NA we have the 4.0L, in Euro and AUS there is the 3.6....each has it's quirks and can be more directly answered by folks in those areas.

So, one issue leads to the other, #7 missing causes excess fuel to bleed into the system aft of exhaust. Thus, one cleans up the other when fixed.

Always do a search for OBD codes using...Jaguar P **** ...and it will give you more direct analysis if the issue for that automobile make. If you only get a 3 digit code, put a 0 in front...example Jaguar P0123.

For your fuel pump issue...

Jaguar P1230 Open Power to Fuel Pump circuit

Description

OBD-II Trouble Code Description for P1230 Jaguar

Open Power to Fuel Pump circuit

PSA OBD-II Trouble Code Description for P1230 Jaguar

Fuel pump low speed Malfunction

 

You could always swap the suspect relay for the rear fog light relay. Starter, fuel pumps and A/C compressor relays are the most prone to go first due to the electrical load.

 

Pendant
The smaller lump here is 3.2
/Pendant

Agree with your post though.

 

It is true. Sometimes we might get multiple codes that stem from a single fault.
Personally, the Duchess has never experienced much success with cleaning relay
contacts. She always insists on a new relay, but your mileage may vary.

 

You are so correct, I have another vehicle with a 3.6 and apparently muscle memory searches won the day.

 

XJ40 sort of age Jags had a 3.6 for a while too, so totally understandable.

 

The plugs arrived from rockauto so I took care of those. I used the NGK 7866 The plugs I removed were Autolite Platinums that looked well warn. The plug straps looked good with the color change roughly 1/2 way down the strap but they had been in there for awhile.
the plug wells were reasonably dry and clean with the exception of a bit more oil sitting in the well below the oil fill.

What I found:
7 Denso coils and 1 SUS AF coil with no markings at all on cyl 7 which is where the misfire was showing up.
I have the 4 wire coils and the wiring was a bit stiff but all in good shape with no damage or crumbling insolation.
I replaced the plugs and moved the sus coil forward 1 cylinder and fired it up.

Misfire is now worse but is not throwing a misfire code. I am getting a full circuit 2 coil code on the cylinder i moved the sus coil to so I found the culprit.

I have ordered a replacement part number STI-5131 from FCP euro. They are on sale ATM for $32.57. Since the forum wisdom seems to be if you have working denso coils keep them is it worth finding a matching good used one to put into service?

More Questions:
Battery hold down
I am missing the battery hold down bolts. The bar is there but the bolts are gone forever. I can get some aluminum/steel rod and thread the ends to make new ones but does anyone know what the thread is?

Airbag
I bought an older Autel Maxidas ds708 and it was able to talk to the srs and it is an open circuit on driver airbag that returned after clearing. Guessing unplugged, broken wire, clock spring, or corrosion.

Fob
Anyone have a link for economical replacement fobs I can program to the car incase the only one i have fails?


Thanks everyone!



So far the code has not returned. I will likely need to pull all of the relays and give them a good clean. I do not think a lot of water was getting in through the broken tailight but it was most for sure and when I went to look at the car it had the cover off the rear fuse box.

Added info to my profile thanks for the heads up


I have and order comging from FCP with a new ait fillter. I will pull the intake and clean it out and hit the MAF with some MAF cleaner before I put it back together.

 

I use the Chinese FOBs off EBay and have had great luck but other people not so much.
Will you be programming the key and FOB? Or paying somebody?
Very wise to get 2 keys/FOBs now BEFORE you have problems!

We have seen a never ending stream of people who buy cars used with 1 key. Then they wait until they can no longer start the car to fix things.
.
.
.

 

I'm sure it's on this site somewhere as I've seen it, but I can't find it now. So here's a link with how to programme fobs

https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/ne...x308-1997-2002

There's two types of fob for these cars. From memory the emblem is either engraved or embossed & you need the right type as they use different wavelengths. More info is on here somewhere, but again I've not found it.

 

The fisrt one i tried was a ford 4 button 315mhz
I got the 2 pack found I got in the car and pulled the turn signal stalk back and turned the key to position 1
released the stalk and then blipped it 4 times
i get the chirp
none on the buttons on the replacement fobs elicited a chirp
presses on the factory fob did chirp.
pressed the factory fob at least 5 times and then turned the key to off.
got the finished chirl and red light on the shifter


Next one i tried was
same thing


can someone post or pm me a link to the ebay ones that others have had luck with?


​​​​​​​

 

M8 x 1.25

 

Love seeing another rescue happening here, great work.

One thing though...red gauges and a red display? Was this normal in earlier cars or in some markets? All my gauges and the display are all green. I could see swapping bulbs out for red maybe, but the display?

 

The red gauges were a bright red led bulb change out. I replaced all my cluster bulbs to bright white led’s and I have a blue look to mine.