Good advice. But here's a question related to this hard reset: I did my reset, but have no plans to drive the car until Tuesday when it goes to the Jagshop for a proper code reading (ABS issues). Is there any problem with doing the reset and then NOT reconnecting the battery and getting all the readings from the instrument cluster? I have a 2.0 trickle charger on just to push the battery back up to full charge. Only "+" cable connected.

 

Nope. Just reconnect when you want.
Please explain "proper code reading".
A good code reader that does ABS pays for itself in no time. I just bought a used Launch CRP 123 Premium flashed to a CRP 129 off the Snap On truck for $50. It's for beginner professionals and serious enthusiasts and does ABS, Airbags, Transmissions, the whole 9 yards on any vehicle from '96 to '17. They can be had new for under $200.
I just could never bring myself to pay for someone to read my car's codes when that $$$ would be way better spent on a good code reader that can be used over and over. Just sayin'...

 

Thanks.

I agree about the value of a good code reader.....IF it will also show Jaguar codes like the "C" codes we need to analyze the ABS problems. I should be getting an "iCarsoft LR V2.0" via Amazon today. I will postpone my appointment with the Jag shop to see if this scanner really will show those important "C" codes. From reading, some of them do, and some of them don't seem to do it for a '97 YM.

If it truly does read the codes, that's only half the battle, though. Actually, it's only 1/3 the battle. I need to erase the codes if the initial problem has really been resolved (re-soldering the two ABS power pins), and then....I think it will need "reconfiguring" to match back up to the ECM and everything else. My understanding says the "AutoEngineering" scanner will do the reconfigure....for about $300. This iCarsoft LR 2.0 cost me about $150. If this one works I will post up and owners can have a choice.

 

My Innova 3130C does, I think I paid about $60 for it.

 

Your Innova reads and can delete Jaguar "C" codes? How long ago and where did you get it? Is it simple to use? I see 2 used ones on Ebay for about $75, and a new 6030P that actually shows a "C" code ABS fault (C1155) on the screen. That one is about $85. They all look so much simpler than this iCarsoft LR V2.0.

II ask because I received the iCarsoft LR V2.0 yesterday. Amazon just slapped a label on the actual scanner box with no outer packaging. But more important, the "operator's manual" that came with it is about 4" X 6" with print so small you need a lighted magnifying glass. After squinting and poring over the part in English (followed by two sections in German and something similar) I think I understand the basic functions. Maybe. There is a chart, but no A....B....C path to using the scanner. It gives info for stupid things like resetting the oil light and actually bleeding the brake lines (IF you have a car with those functions available).

MORE important, there is not one place I find the word "JAGUAR" or even "Land Rover". NONE! I bought this model specifically because it is advertised as reading, deleting, and otherwise dealing with JAGUAR codes. Also, no mention of "C" codes. The only "ABS" function mentioned was about that "bleeding", though it does say it will read "ABS codes....whatever that means.

The scanner prompts you to select the manufacturer and model of the car being diagnosed, so I guess I have to hook it all and use it to find out what (if any) Jaguar codes can be read. I am going to consult their web page and look for some live technical assistance. There is NO telephone number in the manual.

It also never mentions the ability to "reconfigure" any of the systems or modules. We'll see about that.

More updates to come later.

Ken

 

very easy to use.

 

Which one? The instructions for this iCarsoft are very vague. Normally, I don't even have ton read the manual....LOL.

But, the important question is "What functions can I expect for my Jaguar?

The Innova looks much easier to use and figure out.

 

I thought it was easy, I don't read manuals either.

 

Of course not.....we are MEN!

Anyway, I hooked up the iCarsoft and took readings.....not really knowing what I was doing with some of their prompts. I got NO "C" codes. In fact, I got no "P" codes either, but I might have screwed that up by prompting an erasure after the initial diagnosis. I had done a hard reset and had not hooked the battery up until doing this scan. I really expected any "C" codes to remain. The scanner did tell me, though, that there was no communication between the ECU and the ABS or TCM modules. But no code.

Then, I started the car and let it run to warmup, and of course the ABS light and "incorrect part" and low brake fluid lights came on. I'd bet anything that when I restart the car today, the CEL will be on. But I am going to take another reading before I start it.

So far, the iCarsoft is no different than the cheap OBDII scanner I already have.

OH, YEAH.....I HAVE NOT HEARD A WORD FROM THE ICARSOFT TECH SUPPORT. WTF???

 

On Ebay there are so many Innova models (and Foxwell models) I can't tell which is better for our Jaguar systems. What do you think of this 6100P: https://www.ebay.com/itm/15344487212...Cclp%3A2334524

 

The Launch CRP 123/129 does live data and graphs as well and on a 4" color screen. Monitors functions in real time. Even has a parking brake rewind function.
It does sh!+ normally found in OBDII scanners costing $3000.

Here's a good review of the CRP 123.

An excerpt...


Launch Tech CRP123 Review
Summary

This tool could replace my $3,000 Snap-On…It’s a durable, rugged tool that can handle the day-to-day ‘activities’ that us mechanics put our tools through. Support for ABS, SRS, and Transmission codes are icing on the cake. I like how many vehicles the CRP123 supported. If you’re needing an OBDII scanner for Euro and Asian cars, this is a good option. I was able to test it on a few of my friend’s Mercedes (SL500) and BMW’s that most OBDII tool have troubles with and it performed flawlessly. The graphing feature is very helpful and it’s easy to choose the PID’s to graph.

 

Yes, I have seen these being sold on Ebay, too. Before I comment further, did you have to ADD NEW UPDATES to yours before it worked for you? I see lots of reviews that claim it is a first step to using it.

I have to say that throughout Ebay there are hundreds of these similar scanners, each with varying versions and prices. The ads and ad formats are ALL THE SAME. Some do say their units are made in the USA, some don't....but it makes me suspicious of their origins. I was a marketing professor for quite a few years, and spent time in Japan and Okinawa. There is a video within the ad for this CRP123 scanner that I easily recognized as a canned and scripted commercial ad read by a young Japanese or Chinese woman (maybe Korean since at least brand name is a Korean name).

Anyway, it makes me think that many or all of these scanners are being pumped out of a Chinese sweat factory and then branded according to what company is going to distribute or retail them. The list of features of similar models is virtually identical. The iCarsoft LR V2.0, Launch CRP123, Foxwell NT530, and a couple of others look to be the same scanners with slight variations in the cases and color schemes.

ICarsoft still hasn't responded to my "help" request.....but "Autoenginuity" emailed back within hours ON A SATURDAY.

So, I'm looking at all of these, and am probably going to choose one with good customer service and tech support.

So, back to my question: Did you have to buy or download updates/upgrades before you could get the use you wanted from your CRP123??
AND......AND....were you able to "reconfigure", "flash", or "reprogram" the CAN BUS links between the ECU and other modules (ABS and TCM in particular) so they talk to each other???

Thanks,

Ken

 

so you’re saying to leave the positive hooked up to battery and take the negative and touch the positive post now after that does it’s have to do a cycle of some sort I have the p1396 manufacturer and p1000 manufacturer code I can’t seem to get them to clear I’m a new first time jag owner be nice I’m jag dumb lol

 

so you’re saying to leave the positive hooked up to battery and take the negative and touch the positive post now after that does it’s have to do a cycle of some sort I have the p1396 manufacturer and p1000 manufacturer code I can’t seem to get them to clear I’m a new first time jag owner be nice I’m jag dumb lol

 

Let's dispel the myth that a hard reset puts everything back to factory settings - it doesn't. It removes learned adaptions in volatile memory (e.g. fuel trims) by discharging capacitors but NOT programmed settings.

You will ALWAYS see either P1000 (OnBoard monitoring tests not complete) or P1111 (OnBoard monitoring tests complete). These are reporting a status and are not error codes. The P1396 won't go until you fix the cause.

Graham

 

i fixed the codes I had one was the Vvt solenoid I replaced both at same time the other was an evap leak which was gas cap fixed that did a reset drive car engine light came on I scanned it and it’s manufacturer codes I cleared drove same thing light on them codes I did the hard reset and same result is it possible it needs to be flashed I also don’t have a fob and it’s in valet mode could that be the reason for the codes again I’m a newbie this my first jag and was bought on a whim

 

Reflash pointless.

Fix the faults, use codes as guides.

 

On this subject of what a hard reset will or won't do, I have had no luck getting my door lock system to accept and activate via the remote. Yes, I have changed the battery. On that subject, the local Jag shop suggested that these "Dollar Store" batteries are no good...even if they are name brand. So, what might my problem be, and can it be resolved without tearing into the d.door?

 

I did fix the codes as stated in previous posts but the manufacturer codes are the ones that keep comming back up p1396 and p1000 and engine light because of them codes I have a very good code reader so I know it’s accurate. And those codes are for a incomplete cycle so maybe I have to drive it longer for the cycle to complete I’ve gone about 55-60 miles since the hard reset and still has light on with them codes I’m not clearing codes cause i k ow that just starts a cycle all over so after 100 miles if it don’t go away to the dealer I go and they can hook it up to their fancy machines and figure it out I can’t do anything else

 

If you have P1396 then you have NOT fixed all the codes.