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I finally put my new whiz-bang OBD II scanner to Harlem yesterday to see what it showed as to her present (no-crank) condition. This is the first time I have gotten a chance to use something more than a basic model (e.g. something sold at W-M) and I was impressed by all it can do. This is what it pulled up:
1- Code P1000 - despite ONE authoritarian trouble code website's claim that this code supposedly indicates "internal fault in ECM" () the clear consensus is this is a rather innocuous Jag-specific code just to let the tech know that the car has not run its full cycles for purposes of OBD diagnosis. So much for that one ..
2- Code P1647 (both "stored" and "pending") - this is another Jag-specific code that basically shows something amiss with a "linear control chip" for the O2 sensor on Bank B of the engine. I'm suspecting that, but for the situation below regarding the current state of the transmission, this is what is causing the original no-crank condition. I have seen videos about Jags with this code, but for other (e.g. X-400) engines. In those videos, they show r/ring the sensor itself, and that this is supposedly an "upstream" heated sensor on that side of the engine. However, the code description itself does not make any of those differentiations, which would be unusual for a Jag factory code (based on those I have seen for the O2 sensors of other models). ? Also, if it is a "control chip", wouldn't that mean that just a chip needs being r/red, not the sensor itself ? In any event, would having an O2 sensor not functioning actually prevent the engine from running, or even cranking? My face-lift XJS has supposedly had a bad heated O2 sensor for many months now (the c.e. light is on and the JDS error code # for same shows on the display) and yet, if this is true and the code legit, it has not adversely affected the running of her in any way that I can tell.
3- Code P0706 - this is a pending generic code for the transmission. Specifically, this has to do with "range" and/or "restricted performance" (btw, is that Jag's upgraded X-300 term for "limp home mode"?), and more specifically in regard to a "Sensor 'A' Circuit" in same. As a bit of background, I believe that one of the persons who borrowed Harlem before may have somehow caused the outside linkage cable between the shifter and the transmission to be physically disconnected. Specifically, someone may have gotten under her (who did not have the key at the time) and disconnected the cable to be able to put her into neutral so she could be moved around, out of the way, towed, etc. either by pushing and/or by a tow operator. I did notice when I brought her out of operation her shifter just goes through all the positions w/o "stops" or any noticeable resistance, and that she in fact can be pushed around by hand. This would not be possible if she were in "park" but possible if she is in neutral. Hopefully this code therefore just means that the trans system is somehow detecting that the linkage has been disconnected (and therefore the car not allowed to start b/c of same, due to safety). ? btw, I do get a "gearbox failure/restricted performance" or some such warning message on her dash instruments whenever the key is put into pos. #1, which I assume is related to the situation. ?
4- After the key had been in pos. 1 for several minutes while I played around with my new scanner to see what all it could do, I re-ran the diagnostic scan and this time it picked up one additional code (can't remember the specific #) at that time, relating to the emissions system, something about a control valve being "open" (not sure if that relates to a "physical" open or an electrical circuit "open"?). I'm thinking this may relate to the infamous Rochester valve of same. If so, then possibly the engine opened the valve as it should after the engine has been running that long (although in this case the engine was not running but only current going to the circuits) ? I'm thinking this analysis is correct. as when I went inside and came back out a few hours later, reconnected the meter, turned the key on and ran the diagnostic scan again, this time it didn't pick up that code.
A couple of additional notes: (1) despite using my new replacement and yet unprogrammed key during the scans, the OBD scanner did NOT detect the Jag code for unprogrammed key (I forgot the # here). wth?
however (2) when I tried to run the type of scan where the scanner reports my car's ID info. (e.g. make/model/MY/VIN #) to me, I got a "selected mode not supported" (error) message instead. Could this be b/c of my using the unprogrammed key - i.e. the car was not allowing the scanner access to that info. ? I would think normally a '00 MY Jag should be capable of making that info. available to a scanner inquiry.
Last edited by AttyDallas; 04-07-2022 at 06:58 PM.
Sounds like you need to check your shift linkage/cable is connected like you said.
4 - not sure on this, maybe the error code only comes up if you have tried to start with the unprogrammed car, and tripped the security interlock. The ID info may require a Jag-specific scanner to read with.
Reading all your posts makes me glad I don't let others touch my car, particularly in a service aspect. People will find incredible ways to screw things up and avoid taking any responsibility for it.
Thanks. On top of that, it was eventually returned with a dent in the right rear fender (the last person that borrowed it - claimed someone backed into her while it was parked at night at a Dollar Store while she was in the store, and drove off) and one in the left rear door as well (crooked married couple that claimed they could r/r my water pump and upgrade the thermos housing at their home, decided then they wanted to keep it for themselves instead. No idea how they dented it, but they also ran up big toll road charges on it. Both have since died. Karma is a b-, as they say . Borrower #1, who recommended them to me, ended up having to "steal" it back for me!). The dents aren't that big or deep, but the dent in the left door is just below the door handle, and apparently is somehow preventing the relay from unlocking it now (although I can hear it activating). Catch 22 is I can't open the door to take the inside panel off to fix it! I wonder if there is some way to "slim jim" the latch open ?