Sadly, the wrong coolant is some cars can cause all manner of problems. Jaguar changing the specification so that three different fluids could have been introduced into the early x308's does not help.

Another TSB explains that the correct way to fill the system is to actually overfill the tank after you have gone through the purge procedure. This way the excess goes to the overflow in the fender and the system is filled.

 

So far so good.
Fixed the coolant leak, it was when I used a splice to replace the Norma connector on the RH octopus hose end. The splice/heater hose fix was weeping. Tightening the clip screws stopped the leak but I reckon it is time for a replacement splice. I used a high temp plastic connector but still, it is probably giving out after four years of service.
I got the heater pump working. The shaft had jammed. I seem to remember that the motor cover requires careful reassembly if it is not to bind. The synthetic grease dabbed at the bearing probably helps.
Tomorrow, I will backflush the heater matrix and use a flushing solution on it.

 

Xjay8

Nice DIY Photos and instructions for cooling system flush.

Do you have and can you get information about the flushing tool that Max Heazlewood in Tasmania Australia created (where can its parts can be purchased and part numbers??)





Any ideas where I could purchase the parts here in the USA to make that flushing tool??

Jim Lombardi

 

G'day Jim, thanks for the kind comments ;o)
I purchased this device in West Australia about 20 years ago and have never been able
to track one down since.
I cut down an engine degreasing gun to use for the air side of things and I daresay
it would be simple enough to use some y pipe to add to a wooden block that had been
machined down with steps and a central drilling, or ya wanna get really fancy, have some
one machine a billet of aluminium.
I have never seen another plastic one like mine and many people have asked me where I got it. ;o))

 

Is there any reason why a indy shop/tire shop that says they do radiator flush can'tdo the heater core flush? Is there some difficulty with Jags...I don't think I can handle the flush process this time of year. Thanks for the help guys.

 

If they are real mechanics and not some kids working in a box, they should be able to handle it just fine. The problem might be that their "standard" tool and procedure for a "flush" might not get the Jag heater matrix in the flush circuit.

 

That was my concern. The heater matrix.

 

Reading the TSB again --- it is not a flush as much as a dump and refill enough times to finally clean out what they are calling a flushing agent.

It is more of a cleaning agent -- I don't see a real flush going on.

In the old days -- One would "flush" with a garden hose ... using the water pressure from the house to flush the system. This was done with or without a cleaning agent depending on the severity of the buildup. The old systems were simple -- no pumps and complex valves like modern climate controls.

I'm wondering if maybe there would be a problem trying to flush the system with pressurized water? I just don't know? I have no idea how sensitive all the parts.

I would think that the heater core matrix could be isolated and flushed.

Maybe PM one of the technicians on the board and ask ... I wonder what the dealer wants for the TSB? The process in not hard ... it is finding an independent that is willing to read and look .. rather then tell you after .. "thats the way we always do it"

 

I don't think the purge TSB was designed to fix blocked matrix, was it? It was for changing fluid. If a matrix is blocked like mine were, only backflushing would help, and on one, even that did not bust her loose!

 

The TSB was for poor heating performance -- Jaguar has the outlet temp of the heater measured in the beginning. So I'm assuming that the matrix was the problem ... unless they had a low flow problem throughout the system from gelling coolant?


It could have been a coolant incompatibility problem with some of the components -- maybe they thought that the old and the intermediate coolant were compatible and they proved to not be .. or maybe the coolant was bad ... I was never able to get what I thought was a logical answer. I had a x300 and an early x308 back during this period.

I know from many years with MB's that the wrong coolant ... and using TAP water can really screw up a system .. if you are unlucky

 

Found it!
The below mentioned part is no less than the cap onto of the thermostat tower. Using it to bleed the system is the quick way to go rather than driving around and waiting for the car to sort itself.
I reinstalled the auxiliary pump after freeing the binding bearings.
I flushed the heater matrix using Prestone radiator flush. I attached a piece of heater hose to the matrix inlet hose and filled the matrix with flushing solution.
Next day I used a garden hose to flush out the matrix. A fair bit of white/gray flaky stuff came out.
Filled it up, burped it using the radiator hose. I drove around with the heater off for 10 min, then turned on the heater. Lots of heat!

 

The system is not going to work with the pump not working .... so that is the number one issue.

Can't comment on the flaky stuff -- using tap water for the fill can introduce a lot of minerals depending on the water source -- that will flake.

Mixing or using the wrong coolant makes a darker mix in my limited experience -- lots can happen in 15 years.

Glad it is working

 

Lost my reply. Oh well.

Logged in to reply, replied, post, greeted by the god forsaken facebook loaded
login page which also erases the reply.

So be it. Not typing it in again.

 

I did not do a chemical analysis, but in my case, with three different cars, I am pretty sure the white powdery clogging material was some precipitant from using standard Prestone green coolant. Our water is not very high in calcium (the usual contaminant), and I mostly used distilled water.
I backflushed two of the cars and changed the matrix on the other, then began using DexCool coolant, all more than 5 years ago, and no problem since,

 

Most of the green stuff is a silicate based fluid -- with phosphates .. and the product can percolate out. The Japanese and the germans use slightly different additives .. and have different theories on what is best.

I was on a flight to Japan many years ago and the guy next to me was in the chemical business and was going to see Toyota. He was discussing how some coolants work better with some metals and the need to tailor the coolant depending on a particular manufacturers designs. I can't remember if it was the Japanese or the Germans that used copper seals -- and with the aluminum of the engines this required specific additives.

The organic coolants were known for having better heat transfer properties and better flow. He was a chemist .. worked for the company that developed the additives. He told me that most of the foreign manufacturers use different formulas ... not necessarily radically different.

 

I use the "universal", yellow antifreeze coolant.