Help! have i ruined my Xjr?
#1
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I was cleaning my 01 xjr and decided (despite knowing better!) to powerwash the engine. IT was running at the time to make matters worse. I thought i was careful but now i have amber engine management light on and RESTRICTED PERFORMANCE message on the dash. I have dried off the engine, disconnected battery, removed coilpack covers, dried maf and dried moisture away but light remains.the car is starting and running as normal and there is no difference in power. IT did once display ENGINE STALL message then cut out initially but that has not reoccurred. IS this the start of a world of problems for me? Prior to washing the engine the car was always faultless. Please advise.
Last edited by jjd; 04-09-2013 at 03:12 PM.
#2
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oops...!
In all likelyhood, its an electrical connection problem. I would probably start disconnecting the obvious electrical connectors that were sprayed, dry them, spray with a light oil or WD40, and reconnect.
Option 2, plug in an OBD2 reader and see what the code reads. That may get you right to the system, and thereby the connector, that is at fault.
In the "olden" days, the issue would likely fix itself as the connections dried out. Now days all the connectors are sealed, so they won't dry out on their own.
In all likelyhood, its an electrical connection problem. I would probably start disconnecting the obvious electrical connectors that were sprayed, dry them, spray with a light oil or WD40, and reconnect.
Option 2, plug in an OBD2 reader and see what the code reads. That may get you right to the system, and thereby the connector, that is at fault.
In the "olden" days, the issue would likely fix itself as the connections dried out. Now days all the connectors are sealed, so they won't dry out on their own.
#6
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I wash my engines (every vehicle I own, not just the two Jags), once a year at least. I never had a problem. I don't use "power washing" wand often (did for many years while I owned two car wash locations) any more. I do it with a simple garden hose.
When I was using the power washing wand, I would keep the wand on low pressure, and away from the engine.
My procedure: I warm up the engine (not HOT, just warm). I take the air intake (with filter, and MAF) off, and cover the TB (or the carb) with a plastic bag, secured with a rubber band. I spray two or three cans of a good engine degreaser, and let it sit for about 10 min. I hook up a garden hose to the washing machine hot water fawcett, and rinse off with low pressure, staying away from fuse boxes, which I clean later by hand. I wipe everything I can reach with rags, and let it drip dry for a while. After that I spray WD40 EVERYWHERE, and wipe all reachable parts with rags, and start the engine with a hood open. I let the engine warm up, and evaporate water, and WD40. Once the engine stops "steaming", I take the car for a ride (and get the engine HOT). After it cools down, I wipe everything down again with oily (WD40) rags (but no spraying any more).
This has worked for me for years, with no ill effects, and I do it on bikes, trucks, Jags, Benz, Cessna, and everything else, including tractors, and lawn equipment.
When I was using the power washing wand, I would keep the wand on low pressure, and away from the engine.
My procedure: I warm up the engine (not HOT, just warm). I take the air intake (with filter, and MAF) off, and cover the TB (or the carb) with a plastic bag, secured with a rubber band. I spray two or three cans of a good engine degreaser, and let it sit for about 10 min. I hook up a garden hose to the washing machine hot water fawcett, and rinse off with low pressure, staying away from fuse boxes, which I clean later by hand. I wipe everything I can reach with rags, and let it drip dry for a while. After that I spray WD40 EVERYWHERE, and wipe all reachable parts with rags, and start the engine with a hood open. I let the engine warm up, and evaporate water, and WD40. Once the engine stops "steaming", I take the car for a ride (and get the engine HOT). After it cools down, I wipe everything down again with oily (WD40) rags (but no spraying any more).
This has worked for me for years, with no ill effects, and I do it on bikes, trucks, Jags, Benz, Cessna, and everything else, including tractors, and lawn equipment.
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#7
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It may be worth letting the engine idle continuously for a long time-perhaps up to an hour. This is to heat up the whole of the underbonnet area as well as the engine.
I don't think anything would have been damaged & it's probably just residual moisture somewhere, so you need to let the engine & whole engine bay/underbonnet area get really hot to drive off all the moisture.
Properly sealed electrical connectors won't have let any water in, so they probably won't need drying out. Any connectors that have let water in through leaks can be dried by disconnecting & then dabbing with pieces of toilet tissue to soak up the bulk of the water-then reconnected & dried out by letting the engine get properly hot under the bonnet.
To maximise the 'heat soak' under the bonnet, just let it idle for a long time & don't drive it on the road as this will ram cold air into the engine bay-this is the only time when you actually want the maximum amount of underbonnet heat
I don't think anything would have been damaged & it's probably just residual moisture somewhere, so you need to let the engine & whole engine bay/underbonnet area get really hot to drive off all the moisture.
Properly sealed electrical connectors won't have let any water in, so they probably won't need drying out. Any connectors that have let water in through leaks can be dried by disconnecting & then dabbing with pieces of toilet tissue to soak up the bulk of the water-then reconnected & dried out by letting the engine get properly hot under the bonnet.
To maximise the 'heat soak' under the bonnet, just let it idle for a long time & don't drive it on the road as this will ram cold air into the engine bay-this is the only time when you actually want the maximum amount of underbonnet heat
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#8
#9
#10
#11
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Obd gives following codes. P0332 knock sensor 2 circuit low input bank 2
P1642 ???
P1797 ???
P1000 p manufacturer controlled dtc
P1797 p ???
Could not clear any faults or codes however restricted power warning is now intermittent?
Any views on what is on the cards now. And what are the 1642 and 1797/ 1797p codes pertaining to?
P1642 ???
P1797 ???
P1000 p manufacturer controlled dtc
P1797 p ???
Could not clear any faults or codes however restricted power warning is now intermittent?
Any views on what is on the cards now. And what are the 1642 and 1797/ 1797p codes pertaining to?
#12
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P1000 is okay, just means internal tests not completed since reset. It will become P1111 after a few drive cycles.
P1642 & 1797 are indication of short or open in the CAN BUS circuits. I had this issue in the past and found it due to poor connections. Unplugging the connectors to the throttle body and cleaning them is a start, but many other components are in the CAN BUS, and could cause the codes.
P1642 & 1797 are indication of short or open in the CAN BUS circuits. I had this issue in the past and found it due to poor connections. Unplugging the connectors to the throttle body and cleaning them is a start, but many other components are in the CAN BUS, and could cause the codes.
#13
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Thanks for the replies, im going to leave it dry out for a week or so and unplug as many connections as i can to clean them and hope for the best. A word of warning to all though, water near engines and electrics has left me a perfect car rendered useless. Thanks again for all the advice and encouragement.
#14
#15
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I remember pressure washing my RR's engine really good after getting it full of silty dust off-road. After I was done, I saw steam and heard sizzling coming from the fuse box. I promptly removed the battery and let it sit facing the sun with the hood open. It was fine after a few hours.
I would park in a warm place (if possible) and disconnect the battery for a few days.
I would park in a warm place (if possible) and disconnect the battery for a few days.
#16
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Obd gives following codes. P0332 knock sensor 2 circuit low input bank 2
P1642 ???
P1797 ???
P1000 p manufacturer controlled dtc
P1797 p ???
Could not clear any faults or codes however restricted power warning is now intermittent?
Any views on what is on the cards now. And what are the 1642 and 1797/ 1797p codes pertaining to?
P1642 ???
P1797 ???
P1000 p manufacturer controlled dtc
P1797 p ???
Could not clear any faults or codes however restricted power warning is now intermittent?
Any views on what is on the cards now. And what are the 1642 and 1797/ 1797p codes pertaining to?
P1642 can sometimes be a "phantom" code caused by having an inexpensive OBD reader plugged in with the engine running.
P1797 can also be a "phantom"code.
Knock sensors usually go bad due to a coolant leak, the condition you replicated by washing the engine. They are cheap enough, about $28 on the 'bay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150991576244...84.m1423.l2649.
I would at least plug a new knock sensor into the harness and try to clear the codes again. Do not run the engine or drive the car with the OBD reader connected, only read it with the engine stopped but the key in the "run" position.
Here's my thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...s-codes-91090/
and another: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ir-bill-90891/
I "relocated" my knock sensor, allowing me to replace it without removing the supercharger.
Vector
Last edited by Vector; 04-09-2013 at 07:49 PM.
#18
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I got it due to problems with a Actron Pocket Scan 9125 throwing "phantom" codes.
Vector
#19
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Ahh this brings back memories if me cleaning my engine bay.
You ruined the knock sensors.
Buy all the gaskets from the supercharger up now, update the duct seals to the intercooler and also clean out the intercoolers while you're at it. install new spark plugs... ect...
You'll want to do the tensioners depending on year of the car as well. You'll have the valve covers off... if you're really OCD you can weigh your options on upgrading the supercharger to the later years as well.
Or.. just pay someone to do it all haha.
You can check out my build thread on here for a few pictures of the process.
You ruined the knock sensors.
Buy all the gaskets from the supercharger up now, update the duct seals to the intercooler and also clean out the intercoolers while you're at it. install new spark plugs... ect...
You'll want to do the tensioners depending on year of the car as well. You'll have the valve covers off... if you're really OCD you can weigh your options on upgrading the supercharger to the later years as well.
Or.. just pay someone to do it all haha.
You can check out my build thread on here for a few pictures of the process.
#20