Vector, you kept quiet about the outcome of the debate we had on that thread - where/how did you relocate the sensor and does it seem to work OK?

 

Oh man what a disaster. Removal of the s/c and all the related expense is just not feasible at the moment. You see these lovely cars are more or less worthless here due to almost 2 grand a year road tax and E1.50 plus a litre for fuel, then yearly tests hefty insurance etc. Thats why i bought the best i could find as repairing one makes no economic sense.i think ill just chance the plug removal, drying and reconnecting of electrical components option first then I will buy a new knock sensor and take it from there. Many thanks to everyones advice, ye have all been very helpful and i am n no way doubting any of the advice given but i really have to start with the simplest option first and be optomistic. Failing that she just goes off the road such is the fate of big cars needing serious work in the emerald isle.

 

Yes, there was some controversy about the wisdom of relocating the sensor.

I relocated my sensor about 6" back from its electrical connector in the valley between the intercooler and the supercharger. I actually left the original in place and plugged the new one into the harness. It worked great, no more codes.
Vector

 

So am i right in thinking that you just unplugged old sensor, and bonded new one to the block under cooling bricks then plugged new one in? How did you attach it to the engine?

 

Why can't you clear the codes ? Most of them will not go away by themselves, even if you disconnect the battery for a month. You could have triggered the codes at the time, but now the issue is gone and the codes remain. If you do need a knock sensor or two, it's not the end of the world. I just replaced one of mine and it wasn't too bad. Of course I don't have a supercharger ...

 

I think its the removal of the s/c that makes it a big job.

 

You are correct. I attached it with heavy duty epoxy. (yea, I know, but it worked!)
vector

 

Yes, you are correct again! It takes it from a 30 minute job into a 30 hour job, well, not really, but folks say it takes all day to remove the supercharger so that is 14 to 16 hours right there to R&R! Plus you have to replace a lot of gaskets and might as well do the hoses while you are in there.....lol!
Vector

 

It's a 1.5 week or more job when the dealer forgets the parts you ordered.

I used the forum discount with a vendor here... in the end they came through... sucked waiting though.

Now she purrrrrrssss

 

As suggested clear the codes. When (if) the KS code comes back then get your Araldite out. There's no logical reason for Vector's mod not to work despite quite a lot of opposition to the idea when it was mooted.

 

OK Steve, you made me look it up. lol!

Araldite® adhesives - Build, Bond, Protect

Vector

 

I can have the supercharger off in 1 hour.
Takes me about 1.5 hours to get it back on. I think the TB to elbow gasket is $15 at the dealer, the elbow to SC is reusable (rubber). It is only when you start removing charge coolers that gaskets become more expensive.

and I am not a mechanic buy any stretch.

It is not that difficult if you have done it before.

 

I run my Jag with the Bluetooth adapter and the app Torque connected everyday. I love that app! It auto starts when I get in my car and dock it. I like to watch some of the gauges while I drive. I had a very unpleasant event with a motor seizing all because I didn't know I lost all the oil due to a burst oil gasket. Had I known the pressure had dropped to zero I could have saved the engine.

 

Neither is landing a jet liner, alligator wrestling and juggling chainsaws, if you have done it before, lol!

I think that none of use have done this job before and having read other members experiences with the task, we really don't want to try it unless absolutely necessary.
Vector

 

Roger that!

But, if you were in the bay area, I would help you do it, no charge

I am helping another forum member remove and install these parts so he can port and polish the entire intake track.

I was more than a little apprehensive trying it the first time. For non-mechanics like me it is more than a little intimidating under that hood!

 

Nice! I do the same...but I haven't been able to pull oil temp/pressure. I guess you installed the Realgauge mod?

 

Update rescan with obd still have knock sensor code wont clear. New one ordered, plan b now! Oh the joys, still i wouldnt be without her, lovely car. Just wondering would it be ok to drive about in the car in the interim? Weather is nice for a change and i wont be ragging the tail off it just leisurely cruising?

 

Hello again folks. Received new knock sensor, plugged it in but not mounted yet to see would there be any bearing on codes etc. No change im afraid cel on, restricted performance and engine fail safe mode on and same codes as before. However when i then rescan with obd i get "no codes" reading coming up? I wonder would the problem now lie with the cheapo obd scanner im using? I have access to dealer spec system next week is this the way to go? This problem is really beginning to tick me off.

 

I'm confused, which is not unusual BTW, lol!

You say your scanner is saying "no codes" but you also say that you have "the same codes as before."

So which is it? Codes or no codes?

Did you use the sanner to "clear codes?"
Vecot

 

Yeah sorry not to clear was i? Basically i scanned codes, and same ones as before came up 0332, 1000, 1697, 1642 then i selected erase codes option. Erase fail comes up. Then rescan option appears. ON the second scan 'no codes' comes up but cel is still on along with restricted performance engine failsafe and on occasion no trac and no abs/asc? what the hell is going on????