Hi guys,

I just need to know one answer really about the rear hub. I have read and googled loads of sites but cannot find the simple answer and was hoping one of your guys can give me this information.

I am trying to remove the rear hub. I have taken out the center nut from the half shaft that holds the hub in place. I have removed the caliper, disc, parking brakes, ABS sensor and handbrake cable. I have been attempting to pull the hub out to do the bearings but with no joy at all. I have busted 2 pullers already and I'm getting to the point of giving up!!

Why isn't the hub coming off? ... Have I missed something here?

It feels like I'm trying to remove the hub with something holding it on! I have even been knocking the hell out of the hub with a very large hammer but still no movement or any sign what-so-ever of it even moving out at all.

My Jaguar is an XJ8 Sport 1999 model.

Please help me here, thank you in advance.

Dave

 

member JagtechOhio sugguested that heat applied with puller tighten on hub - (august 2009)

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...removal-22215/

quote: Carefully warming up the hub with the puller snugged down might help.

JCNA forums also has a tool loaner program and mentions "JCNA Churchill tool -

The Churchill tool has a shaft that is 1 inch of fine screw thread. As such the force it applies is huge.

There was a rec. article from a club member who had tried all sorts of pullers--he then used the JCNA Churchill tool and was finished in 10 mins.

The Churchill tools also have a ball bearing inserted in the shaft end so that no shaft splits or deformation occurs.

The JCNA tool loan program allows for two weeks so your weekend concern does not apply. (I think the tool part number is 204-011 (Hub Removal Tool) Legacy Tool Number: JD.1D. here is image I found on the jaguar.service-solutions.com website).



Also JTIS illustration - using the tool:



(Looks like the only Churchill hub puller on JNCA tool loaner list is JD1C - deposit of $750 and $10 inspection and cleanup fee)

Jaguar Clubs of North America

Churchill tool has a holder bar and there is no need for ten LB hammers. (Churchill) tool pulls from 5 (points) so there is more even force then (OTC tool).


Here is a PDF file created from the JTIS on the rear hub and rear bearing R&I:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...earing-r-i-pdf

Jim Lombardi

 

Thanks for your reply. I have tried heat today and its still not coming off or even any sign of it coming off!

Dynamite might be my better option at this stage!

I've seen on youtube this thing called a ''Hub Buster'' only downside is that I'm in the UK and we don't have these over here :-(

Will carry on trying to get it off again tomorrow.

 

Hi Dave,

Sorry to hear you are having so much difficulty with the rear hub.

As far as I can recall, the only explanation for the resistance you are encountering is that one or more of the following parts is corroded to the hub:

1. Axle splines

2. Inner hub bearing (part 9 in the diagram below)

3. ABS reluctor or sensor rotor (part 11)

Hub Carrier and Hub Assembly-Rear - Parts For XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (X308) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK


It may save you a lot of time to disconnect the axle from the differential (4 bolts) and disconnect the hub from the wishbone (1 long fulcrum bolt). You can then position the hub upright and drip penetrating oil down the splines of the axle and let it soak, then turn it the other way and drip it around the ABS reluctor and see if that does the trick. I would avoid heating the hub if at all possible because it is no doubt heat treated and overheating by even a little could affect its temper and strength (and your safety).

Below are links to photos of how I replaced the rear bearings on our '93 XJ40, which is very similar to the X300 and X308:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page
Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,

Many thanks for your reply and advice and pictures, .... I have tried all lubrication in the hub the best I can including what you said about lifting it up so that the lubrication can follow down the shaft (which makes perfect sense). The only part I never thought of was in the ABS hole so will have ago at that as well tomorrow.

Today I was hitting it so hard with a sledge hammer and it still wouldn't budge at all. This evening I went out and bought the biggest and heaviest hub puller I've ever seen in my life!! It weighs about 30 kilo's and it is a real heavy duty puller (probably made for JCB's or big trucks) so if this doesn't budge it then I will be removing the shaft with the 4 bolts.

I will take a picture and show you guys tomorrow the size of this 3 arm hub puller attached to the hub and hopefully I'll be happy it's come off, finally!!

Watch this space ;-)

 

Dave,

I noted this in my photo albums but just to emphasize this point, the rear axle nuts have a deforming thread insert and are intended to be used one time only. At least two members of the Jag-Lovers forum who ignored Jaguar's warning experienced the nuts loosening while driving their cars, so please take this seriously. The nuts are not cheap, and unfortunately, even though I've tracked down a manufacturer, I haven't yet found a source for purchasing the nuts in quantities of just 1 or 2 other than from a Jaguar dealer. Here's what they look like:

AMELOCK self-locking nut

Cheers,

Don

 

There is hope

A friend was working on his Jensen Interceptor and broke several pullers. He took it to the nearest truck shop and showed them the problem. They laughed, pulled out, in their words, "a real puller". Popped it off in seconds.

 

AMELOCK says they are "reusable several times". Were those members using nuts beyond "several times"?

What about Loctite Red?

 

Don,

Yes I'm going to use a brand new nut and have ordered one today, at a costly price of £27.00 delivered :-(


Now for the good news ........... IT'S OFF!!!

My heavy huge hub puller worked! .... I had to use a big pole as well to get the force on it and as I was turning it around I heard this crack noise so kept going as I wasn't bothered at this stage as I had already wrecked the hub and the housing but was replacing all this lot in one go, so after I heard this cracking noise again, the whole lot just sprung out of the housing and off the half shaft spline, ... Was well relieved as it's taken me a total of 1 week to get this off, .. How embarrassing is that lol.

Here are the pictures of this monster hub puller I bought from Ebay for £50 ... Was worth every penny!!

 

spline damage in that last picture?

 

The Jaguar manuals are all very clear that the nuts must be used only once, which probably has to do with the fact that in the rear axle appliclation they are torqued to 220-230 lb. ft., which probably deforms the "deforming thread insert" so much that it will not function properly after removal. The accounts of at least two guys on the Jag-Lovers forum who noticed their rear axle nuts had loosened after they reused the nuts and driven their cars seems to confirm Jaguar's warnings.

Some guys have considered Loctite Red (such as 271), which can only be removed by heating the parts to 500F/260C. That might be fine if you know for certain you'll never have to disassemble the parts again, but heating the axle and hub to 500F could potentially affect their temper (from heat treatment in the manufacturing process), which is not a risk I'm willing to take.

Don

 

Congratulations Dave! I've got to get me one of those pullers!

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don, ... That pulley was made in England in the late 1970's when all tools from all countries were made much better than they are now. Shame they don't make tools like they did back then ;-)

There does look like some damage to the splines in the picture but I think it's just the picture angle / quality, will check it out tomorrow when I clean it up.

 

Just to confirm that there is no spline damage ;-)

 

Glad to see you got it off

Chris

 

Isn't that the truth! All this crap made in China is for the birds. I wish each country would do its parts to bring back some manufacturing/textiles so as not to be beholden to one country. Death by a thousand lashes...

Chris

 

China can make anything you want. You just have to be willing and able to pay the price. Nobody can put $0.50 of materials and labour into a $0.10 wrench and stay in business.

The reason China is the manufacturer du jour is that they are willing to manufacture to the cost point of the brand specifier.

The fault lies with the brand specifier. They want minimum cost and maximum markup. They might only pay $0.50 for a $5.00 wrench, but tell them they can have a better one for $0.75 and they'll tell you to mind your own business.

Greed is good ... just ask any multi-national or investment banker

++

 

Anyone know if you can remove the wheel studs without pulling the hub. Some idiot cut the studs short in order to install aftermarket wheels. Looks like I can pull the emergency brakes and push out the studs? Maybe?

 

Hi fmfz12007,

Your question probably deserves a new thread of its own, but I'll reply and if the moderators see fit they can move your message and mine to a separate thread. I think you should be able to do rears without removing the hubs. Worst case, you might have to remove or at least displace the e-brake shoes as you mentioned. Once you tap a stud back far enough that its tapered/splined base comes free of the hub, you gain a little "wiggle" that will help you maneuver the old studs out (and the new studs in). See photo 6 in the album at the link below:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page


The front hubs & bearings on an X308 are a little different than an XJ40, so I'm not sure if any of my photos will help, but based on the parts diagram, I wonder if you could simply rotate the hub so a stud was positioned over the square notch in the splash shield (Part 8 in the diagram below) for the clearance you need, then rotate the hub as necessary for each stud. You would need to remove the brake calipers and discs, but you might get away without having to remove the hubs:






By the way, an old-timer mechanic once gave me a tip that has come in handy a couple of times. You can cut an old stud short to help remove it of course, but if you're having trouble installing the new studs due to a lack of clearance, you can grind a "flat" on the flange at the base of the stud to give you more wiggle room around any obstructions. The integrity of the stud isn't compromised because most of the flange remains, and most of the stress on the stud is borne by the tapered & threaded sections anyway.

Cheers,

Don

 

Omigawrd Dave...you didn't 'arf mangle the hub ;o))
When all else fails, hit it with a bigger hammer! ;o)=)

As with everything along these lines...there is a right way and a wrong way.
As for pullers, ecpecially leg pullers, they are not really designed for this sort of job and can quite often cause damage and distortion.
I reckon you got it off after it had been soaking for a while.

The full rim puller is the best way to go as it distributes the pulling force right around the hub to pull evenly.
As for tool manufacturers, they are to blame for the present situation....even well respected companies like Sykes Pickervant have a number of their lines
made OS.

Just make sure when reassembling that you use Kopprslip or similar on the splines and other shafts on reassembly.

PLEASE!!.....TAKE NOTE of DonB's advice regards the nut....there are far too many people on here and other sites who consider they can get away with it
for the sake of a few measly bucks....WHAT PRICE YOUR LIFE??