I pulled a coil and plug for a spark test and am indeed getting spark. The plug was dry and lightly covered with black carbon. The spark wasn't blue, but it was reasonably strong - I could see it from inside the car in broad daylight. The plugs have 75k on them and will be replaced while I am into this, but I don't think plugs are the problem here.

So, to recap, I have 40 lbs of pressure at the fuel rail and spark, but no ignition. What's that leave? Throttle body cleaning? I did spray carb cleaner into the throat and butterfly, but guessing there is more to it than that.

Injector cleaning? Is that something that can be done at home?

Any other clues, recommendations, or insights will be appreciated. Thanks -

ps: also cleaned the MAFS, but it wasn't very dirty to begin with...

 

Assuming that you have fuel and spark (blue would be better), the other possibility is compression or lack thereof. There have been many threads on this about cylinder wash and resulting in little or no compression. The fix is to squirt an ounce or so of oil into each cylinder, put the plugs back in and start as if flooded - with pedal to metal - until it fires. Does it spin as if there is no compression ?

 

I will plan to do a compression test this weekend. I would say it does sound like it is turning over normally - with compression, in other words. But I have read about the oil method for washed cylinder no starts and need to rule out lack of compression with a gauge to be certain before trying that.

Thanks -

 

I feel like I am closing in on my problem... a little more help please, jag gurus -
Today I:
Cleaned all the connectors on the TB, MAFS, and any others I could find under the hood.
Performed a "hard reset" as prescribed here, negative terminal to positive for 30 sec.
Tried starting while holding pedal to floor for 30 sec and then at 50%.
No sign of combustion, but when I read the codes now, I am getting only P0102 and P0112 (along with the P1000).

According to alldata the 102 is related to the MAFS or airflow in general and 112 is related to the IATS also air related.

How can I diagnose these items further? What would you do next?

Recapping, I am getting spark and fuel rail pressure, confirmed. No compression check yet, but it does not seem to be spinning freely.

Thank you in advance of any wisdom, logic, or both!

 

My opinion is that neither P0102 or P0112 would cause the engine not to start. Both point to the MAFS or it's wiring but both have a default that would allow the car to run.

It is not the weekend yet and therefore you have not done the compression test. My money is on cylinder wash.

The full throttle start procedure takes a lot more than one 30 second crank session. Try several minutes. The compression does not get better without pumping a lot of oil around. If you are going to try that make sure that you have a way to charge the battery. Pulling it down below 10v while cranking causes all sorts of electronic issues that will hide mechanical ones.

 

In my opinion I think you need to forget about the codes. A low battery and the continued starting of the car will render false OBD codes. For now forget them because I think you are chasing a ghost. You say you have fuel and spark but it will not start. You have two things to try. The first is to put the shifter in “N” position and the second is to add a little oil to the cylinders and give it a try. Not knowing if the problem is the shifter selector switch or washed cylinders I say eliminate both. Take a moment and read my post on the washed cylinders @ http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairNoStart.htm Let us know what you come up with. If you do anything read the no start on my page.

 

It is good to hear you both agree on the most likely culprit. Also good to know the defaults on the MAFS and ITAS will not prevent starting.

Gus, I read the no start on your page and visited your site for help along the way on this problem - thanks a million. I have tried the neutral start option you mention.

This cylinder wash condition should result in a low or no reading on a compression test. I will do that tomorrow and if compression is low I will try the oil method and cranking it for a longer period.

Thanks again -

 

One more question - if I wanted to rule out water or crud in the fuel, what would be the procedure for clearing any such contaminants from the system?

 

The fuel filter will take care of the crud. Change it if you think that is an issue. Any water will sit on the bottom of the tank until it gets high enough to affect the pick up tube. There are products, alcohol based I believe, that will mix with the water and assist in getting it burned.

 

I think I am clean in the tank, but here in Florida water gets in everywhere somehow. I would assume if I am getting pressure at the fuel rail and adequate flow I am OK in that department.

I will try the extended cranking plan to get some oil moving. Battery charger standing by...

 

I have done the compression check and if anyone has encouraging words I'll take 'em.

Results in psi:
Bank 1: 180, 195, 0, 180
Bank 2: 95, 35, 75, 75

I read the compression-less cylinder several times, and added oil to that cylinder in several attempts. Once with about a tablespoon, once with about 2 tablesoons. No change.

There are no odd noises when it turns over; pistons are all moving.

Valve job? Thanks again...

 

This does not look good! Did you add oil to all the cylinders (both sides)? It seems odd that one sides compression is greater than the other and that you had the car out and it was running just fine to totally dead (no-start). I would say compression rings / cam or valves. Have you checked your cam chains and tentioners? I would check your cam/valve/chain operation first. Pull the valve covers first and take a look.

 

Yeah, what Gus said.

There are 'flats' on the cams at the front. Turn the engine with a socket/ratchet on the crankshaft bolt until they are as close to lined up as possible. Both sides will be slightly out of align because of valve spring pressure on the cam lobes. If they are more than 2-3 degrees out of align your exhaust cam may have jumped time which is the best guess at this point. Compression could be escaping out the valves because they may not be in time with the top of the compression stroke. While the first guess is that you may also have bent a valve on that 0 psi one, it seems strange that it is on the 'good' side. Tensioners don't normally fail on both sides at the same time.

You never mention the status of you tensioners and as an '01 the car came with the plastic ones.

Sorry, wish I could make it better.

 

Thanks for the quick replies... I am likewise incredulous that this could be the case after running fine a half-hour before and occurring at startup. That it happened in my driveway is certainly a good thing.

I tried oil in only the one really bad cylinder; don't know that I used enough oil (about 2 tablespoons) but I would think compression should be better than zero even with washed cylinders. Numbers are all over the place so I "like" the possibility that something jumped in the timing when I went to start it.

When I turned the key it was immediately out of whack and certainly ran like the timing was off. Also had the misfire codes.

I will pull the valve covers and see what I find. If there is a way to return the valve train to proper alignment there is hope I can avoid pulling the heads, I suppose (?).

Hopefully nothing bent or broken. Can change the tensioners while in there.

Thanks again -

 

Are you saying that it did run after adding the oil but ran bad???

 

No sorry, I was referring to when the problem first started. It hasn't run at all since then.

 

Sounds like the exhaust cam chain tensioners have failed, and valves have hit a piston, bending them and thus causing low, or zero cylinder pressure. Get those cam covers off as soon as you can ! It certainly seems like a heads-off job now.

 

My dime says you are correct!

 

Thanks for the input. I am now braced for the worst and will pull those covers asap. Stay tuned!

Meanwhile I am sourcing machine shops and getting estimates on head rebuilds. My concern is getting the cam timing back after replacing the heads and tensioners - is that something that can be done in the home garage? Any links on that that might give an overview of steps?

Thanks -

 

Do make sure you account for all the pieces of the camchain tensioners, (assuming they have broken up). If you can't you will have to have the front chain cover off, and then you might as well do the bottom chains, tensioner, and slippers !

Other thing I forgot to mention is opinion on the low pressures on cylinder bank 2, as this seems too high for a bent valve syndrome. If you have a Nikasil engine, this could very well indicate the Nikasil lining has gone, and it's time for another block with steel cylinder liners. (or another steel-linered engine)

Sorry this is such a tale of woe for you !!